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rebuild costs information

txpd

Full Member
Joined
Jun 7, 2005
Messages
234
Hey guys,
I havent had an old car or a EB in a long time. I need some info. I am looking at a nicely original AT/PS 1974. Its a running driving truck with a little rust.

The 302 is leaky from the seals. The AT shifts hard. The 3:50 limited slip is a little lose. If I policed all that up proper, how much of a budget would I need?

Thanks in advance
 

thegreatjustino

Contributor
Red Head Grease Monkey
Joined
Jan 23, 2002
Messages
15,679
Loc.
Stockton, CA
Here in CA, $1,500 for a 302 rebuild and $600 for a C4.

That's with you pulling them, hauling them to the rebuilders, picking them up when they're done, and reinstalling.

If a shop pulls and reinstalls, double the cost.
 
OP
OP
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txpd

Full Member
Joined
Jun 7, 2005
Messages
234
I am in rural NC where my engine guy and body guy are low overhead operations. Thats helpful information. Thanks again.
 

spap

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Jan 2, 2010
Messages
2,469
X2 on triple the estimates, there will always be something along the way you need to address and then there won’t be much of surprise when it reaches that amount if it’s cheaper you win. Haaa
 
OP
OP
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txpd

Full Member
Joined
Jun 7, 2005
Messages
234
Its sat for 10 years. Nothing in the drivetrain appears broken. I needs a refreshs though everywhere. It needs the interior completely redone. It has rust in one front floor and at the bottom edges of the windshield frame. There's a grill in the dent. Its on semi original paint. So, i basically needs everything
 

Mikesimp70

Full Member
Joined
Jun 20, 2017
Messages
341
with a little rust.

On the 3x concerns, This is the only thing I would be concerned about. Rebuilds of 302 and trans cannot balloon too much. If you plan on peeling the rust onion you might get surprises. This is usually where 3x comes in.
 
OP
OP
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txpd

Full Member
Joined
Jun 7, 2005
Messages
234
On the 3x concerns, This is the only thing I would be concerned about. Rebuilds of 302 and trans cannot balloon too much. If you plan on peeling the rust onion you might get surprises. This is usually where 3x comes in.


Old Mustangs have been my hobby in the past and I have had a Baja that needed love. The Baja needed some body and paint and the interior had been painted with a rattle can and needed to be redone but the truck was pretty rust free.

Setting a purchase price is the hard part right now and the repair budget helps me set that.
 

DirtDonk

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Nov 3, 2003
Messages
47,500
Sitting for even a couple of years then at least plan on a new fuel pump and carb rebuild, even if the low-ish mileage engine only needs a re-seal.
But you said it's running and you drove it, so maybe that's all been done already?
If the engine is good, you can get away with some new seals and gaskets and some oil additives to clean out the old gunk. Could be good for years after that for very little investment.

The rusty floors are relatively easy to fix at home, but the windshield frame would worry me. Not because it's hard to replace one (probably better than fixing the old one if there is rust-through on that thick material) but because the cowl area below it is a notoriously well known rust breeder of an area. It's central to the strength of the vehicle and is most definitely NOT easy to replace.

Do you know the mileage for sure? The odometer only goes to 99,999 like those other old vehicles you've dealt with. So with a trashed interior it's hard to say it's got low mileage. But if it's just damage from the sun, that might be different.
Some things that need replacing due to both mileage and/or age are the rear wheel bearings. Not a big expense even if you have it done (maybe $300-$400?) but opens up a can-o-worms if your brakes need work too. If you were thinking of upgrading the rear diff, then this is that snowball effect that starts with you thinking you'll do it down the road, but deciding to do it now "while you're already in there" as we know all to well!
But at least it'll force you to change the gear oil.;);D

The C4 in Broncos already shifted more firmly than most, then when someone decides for some unknown reason that they need a shift-kit installed during a service, it shifts super hard and most Bronco owners hate it. Even when they're the type that like high-performance and stuff.
The problem is a lot of the time it's the transmission service technician that takes it upon themselves to install a shift kit because they do it on every trans they work on.
I've heard that story hear probably twenty times over the years when members had their Bronco transmissions worked on.

Things in general will start to leak and fail randomly due to their age and sitting for awhile so you will eventually be into it for more than you expected. Even when you expected it!
With luck those things will just fail now and then, and not every other time you try to drive it. But this is all about why we cringe at the new pricing levels. Because we know it's going to happen, but it's hard to buy one at a low price anymore, based on what kind of money you still have to put into it after you buy it. The problem comes when those Broncos sell at the higher prices because someone just had to have it and had been out-bid several times already so they jump on it sight unseen. And if you hesitated, you lost out.

Hopefully this is someone you know and you're the only one in line. If so then you can make a fair offer without having to hurry.

Good luck! Lots of unknowns, but can still be a fun journey.

Paul
 

sprdv1

Contributor
REBEL
Joined
Mar 8, 2007
Messages
81,747
Here in CA, $1,500 for a 302 rebuild and $600 for a C4.

That's with you pulling them, hauling them to the rebuilders, picking them up when they're done, and reinstalling.

If a shop pulls and reinstalls, double the cost.

For sure. Lot depends on location
 
OP
OP
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txpd

Full Member
Joined
Jun 7, 2005
Messages
234
Sitting for even a couple of years then at least plan on a new fuel pump and carb rebuild, even if the low-ish mileage engine only needs a re-seal.
But you said it's running and you drove it, so maybe that's all been done already?
If the engine is good, you can get away with some new seals and gaskets and some oil additives to clean out the old gunk. Could be good for years after that for very little investment.

The rusty floors are relatively easy to fix at home, but the windshield frame would worry me. Not because it's hard to replace one (probably better than fixing the old one if there is rust-through on that thick material) but because the cowl area below it is a notoriously well known rust breeder of an area. It's central to the strength of the vehicle and is most definitely NOT easy to replace.

Do you know the mileage for sure? The odometer only goes to 99,999 like those other old vehicles you've dealt with. So with a trashed interior it's hard to say it's got low mileage. But if it's just damage from the sun, that might be different.
Some things that need replacing due to both mileage and/or age are the rear wheel bearings. Not a big expense even if you have it done (maybe $300-$400?) but opens up a can-o-worms if your brakes need work too. If you were thinking of upgrading the rear diff, then this is that snowball effect that starts with you thinking you'll do it down the road, but deciding to do it now "while you're already in there" as we know all to well!
But at least it'll force you to change the gear oil.;);D

The C4 in Broncos already shifted more firmly than most, then when someone decides for some unknown reason that they need a shift-kit installed during a service, it shifts super hard and most Bronco owners hate it. Even when they're the type that like high-performance and stuff.
The problem is a lot of the time it's the transmission service technician that takes it upon themselves to install a shift kit because they do it on every trans they work on.
I've heard that story hear probably twenty times over the years when members had their Bronco transmissions worked on.

Things in general will start to leak and fail randomly due to their age and sitting for awhile so you will eventually be into it for more than you expected. Even when you expected it!
With luck those things will just fail now and then, and not every other time you try to drive it. But this is all about why we cringe at the new pricing levels. Because we know it's going to happen, but it's hard to buy one at a low price anymore, based on what kind of money you still have to put into it after you buy it. The problem comes when those Broncos sell at the higher prices because someone just had to have it and had been out-bid several times already so they jump on it sight unseen. And if you hesitated, you lost out.

Hopefully this is someone you know and you're the only one in line. If so then you can make a fair offer without having to hurry.

Good luck! Lots of unknowns, but can still be a fun journey.

Paul

Hey Paul. Sent you a PM
 

Madgyver

Bronco Madman
Joined
Jul 30, 2001
Messages
14,695
you can save a lot if you have the time and place to work on it yourself.
make it a project and learn from it.
Things get expensive when work is delegated.
 

sprdv1

Contributor
REBEL
Joined
Mar 8, 2007
Messages
81,747
you can save a lot if you have the time and place to work on it yourself.
make it a project and learn from it.
Things get expensive when work is delegated.

Yes sir... and definitely know all the ins/outs with your rig
 

Rustytruck

Bronco Guru
Joined
Feb 24, 2002
Messages
10,875
If you want any chance of sealing a rear main seal you most likely have to replace the main bearings too, to support the crank and keep the surfaces on center and in alignment.
 
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