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C4 and Dana 20 install

johnbeck

Sr. Member
Joined
Aug 11, 2015
Messages
534
Monday I pick up my rebuilt 302 from the machine shop. The engine has been out almost a year and a half and I have to figure out the detailed sequence of installing the transfere case cross member, Dana 20, and C4 from the bottom. Do I bolt the Dana 20 to the C4, jack it up (with or with out the crossmember attached, with one or both "L" crossmember support brackets already screwed into the frames?), Then support the front of the C4's weight until I attach the 302 (with what beside a jack if I want to still be mobile until I get time to installing the engine)? I know for a lot of you this wouldn't be your first rodeo. Unfortunetly the last time I pulled a trans and transfer case was for a clutch on a 3/4 ton Chevy twenty years ago). A list of the sequence you would use will be greatly appreciated. Thanks, John.
 

thegreatjustino

Contributor
Red Head Grease Monkey
Joined
Jan 23, 2002
Messages
15,676
Loc.
Stockton, CA
Everyone has their preference. I hate installing transmissions from the bottom when the engine is in place. I've found it much easier to install the transmission and transfer case first from the bottom then install the engine.

I bolt the t-case and cross member to the transmission, jack it up into place with a transmission jack, install the two cross member brackets to the frame, then lower and bolt the transmission in. Then do the engine.
 

B RON CO

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Jun 29, 2016
Messages
2,414
Loc.
Statesville, NC
Hi, X2. I work on a concrete pad with no lift. I would always attach the engine to the tranny from the top, tranny adjusted level with a jack.
If you have the tranny installed first, and want to support the tranny, use straps or wire from the bell housing bolt holes to a convenient spot, find something strong or use a 2x4.
Good luck
 

Jfryjfry

Sr. Member
Joined
Aug 28, 2017
Messages
502
Everyone has their preference. I hate installing transmissions from the bottom when the engine is in place. I've found it much easier to install the transmission and transfer case first from the bottom then install the engine.

I bolt the t-case and cross member to the transmission, jack it up into place with a transmission jack, install the two cross member brackets to the frame, then lower and bolt the transmission in. Then do the engine.

Can you clarify the second-to-last step, bolting the transmission in? It sounds like it is already bolted to the tfer case and is boosted to the crossmember which is bolted to the frame....
 

thegreatjustino

Contributor
Red Head Grease Monkey
Joined
Jan 23, 2002
Messages
15,676
Loc.
Stockton, CA
1. bolt the t-case and cross member to the transmission

2. jack it up into place with a transmission jack - jack it slightly above the mounting points for the frame brackets so you have room to bolt them in.

3. install the two cross member brackets to the frame

4. lower and bolt the transmission to the frame brackets
 

drroy

Jr. Member
Joined
Apr 13, 2017
Messages
78
Sounds like engine, transmission and transfer case are all out of truck? If that’s the case, I have found it is easy to attach them all together out of the vehicle and drop them in as a single unit.
I have pulled and installed the c4 a few times and going in or coming out it takes the better part of a day. Outside of the truck it easy peasy.

With a harbor freight 2 ton hoist I had to rest the front axle on some 4x4 to get radiator support low enough, but if you have to drop the engine anyway, might as well get tranny and transfer case In as well.

TinkQdX.jpg
 
OP
OP
J

johnbeck

Sr. Member
Joined
Aug 11, 2015
Messages
534
I have aluminum heads. Lifting that much weight where should I bolt in the lift bracket? The trans support cross member appears to be attached in your photo. It doesn't create a hastle to maneuver the assembly with the attached cross member? Thanks
 

drroy

Jr. Member
Joined
Apr 13, 2017
Messages
78
Front and rear on the heads there is 7/16 bolt holes that you attach he chains from tilt bracket. The crossmember is another piece that is easier to attach with engine and transmission off the truck and it is not difficult to maneuver into the vehicle
 

Rustytruck

Bronco Guru
Joined
Feb 24, 2002
Messages
10,875
Put the hood all the way up against the windshield and bungie it up there so it doesnt clean your clock with a slight breeze. Been there and done that. If you choose to drop the engine in first put a chunk of 2 x 4 behind the drivers side valve cover and the firewall to keep the engine leaning too far back.
 

dprio34

Jr. Member
Joined
Feb 14, 2015
Messages
130
Loc.
Las Vegas, NV
@Rustytruck....I had not read this post prior to starting this job, but my driver's side valve cover is barely touching the firewall. I probably have 3" on the passenger side valve cover and firewall. So I guess this is normal? I was concerned prior to reading this. I don't remember it being that close on the driver's side.. but it has been months since I had the engine in the Bronco.

Also, Can anyone confirm the orientation on the Stock RAT 3 Speed Transmission Cross-member. The 2 holes in the center of the crossmember should be facing the rear of the vehicle? Correct?

I already installed the Transmission "L" Brackets to the Frame. But I will now remove them, as it sounds like the preferred technique to bolt up the transmission to the T-Case and attach the crossmember first prior to jacking them into place.

Thanks to all that have posted.
Cheers.
 
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