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FiTech controller on/off

blknblu69v

Jr. Member
Joined
Jul 5, 2012
Messages
65
I just hooked up a FiTech GO 4-600 on my 302. Used the wire connection to let FiTech run my coil. The controller won’t stay on. Just slowly flashes the home screen. This is a used system purchased from a reliable friend. We barrowed another controller, same issue. Check all power connections. It’s getting constant 12v from throttle body.
Went to FiTech.com and emailed issue. They replied the tip of the 3.5 data plug should also show 12v. It doesn’t, only 4v coming from throttle body. Called FiTech, support said might be bad ECU. Patched me thru to sales who said it’s the controller because the pump cycled when key on. Sales said 3.5 is data only.
I added a ground from throttle body to the battery. I ordered the new controller and associated wire harnesses but I don’t think this is the solution.
Where else should I check for power issue?
 
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blknblu69v

Jr. Member
Joined
Jul 5, 2012
Messages
65
Update: I ran 12v direct from battery to controller. Unit stays on but won’t let me go into any other screens. It says the TF card not available?
 

omureebe

Full Member
Joined
Jun 18, 2013
Messages
402
I tell ya... I had a lot of problems initially and sat on hold many times for 20-30 minutes, but I found the tech line good. I know many people recommend one of the Facebook pages for FiTech, but I had better results just going through them.
 
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blknblu69v

Jr. Member
Joined
Jul 5, 2012
Messages
65
Don’t think it has one. With key on im getting 12v at the coil. I just received their new Handheld V2 with new connector and it wouldn’t turn on. Ran 12v direct from battery and it came on. Did initial setup and will not start. No spark. Checked 2 wire distributor wire connections and all good. Engine set up menu ask for Tach or 2-wire. I arrowed over and selected my only option of VRCoil. What is VRCoil? Is this correct? If so where is my spark?
 

Eoth

Bronco Guru
Joined
Mar 10, 2004
Messages
1,677
VRcoil is timing controlled by your FiTec unit.
 
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blknblu69v

Jr. Member
Joined
Jul 5, 2012
Messages
65
I have the black wire going to my neg post on the coil. I locked out my 2-wire distributor. I did the phasing on the distributor. I did the Initial Setup. Here are some pics of my handheld V2 screen.
What is wrong?
 

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blknblu69v

Jr. Member
Joined
Jul 5, 2012
Messages
65
Update: I unhooked the distributor from the FiTech and re-attached to the coil. Made the adjustment on the FiTech handheld. Turn the key on, let the pump cycle, turn to start it fired for a second and stopped. Tried several times. Does the same thing. Fire then stop but still cranks - like no fuel. Ugh.
I'm not getting much help on this site. I've tried FB page FiTechusers but not getting any help there either. I've tried calling Fitech but get left on hold. I contacted them thru email but they take a few days to reply.
My gut tells me I have a power issue. The handheld won't work on power supplied from the throttle body. When I checked to fuse from the direct battery feed, I discovered it was corroded and melted a little from the previous user. I replaced the fuse and read 12v across the fuse. I stabbed the wire between the fuse and the throttle body and get 12v. Power from the throttle body to the Handheld is 11.7v - not sure why, but still figure its enough to run the Handheld - wrong.
So, can the fuse show 12v but not supply enough amps to properly run the FiTech ECU? Which in turn powers the Handheld and controls the fuel and spark (when hooked to the distributor).
From all the research I've found, I can't find anything related to this issue.
Appreciate any help.
 

bronkenn

Contributor
Bronco Guy
Joined
Apr 27, 2017
Messages
2,662
Loc.
Southeast Ohio
I have been watching this thread and don't have any experience with the issue your having. I had other problems with my Fitech. I found that when I would call the tech line I would get put on hold and turn on the speaker part of phone and work on something else until they answered. I got some good techs and some not so good techs on the line. I finally got my problem fixed. As far as yours goes it does sound like the ECU is faulty as it won't communicate with your hand held. Back when I used to use the Tech 2 diagnostic/programmer for the GM vehicles, that was one of the first things you would see if the unit couldn't communicate with the modules. Good luck and hope you get it figured out.
 
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blknblu69v

Jr. Member
Joined
Jul 5, 2012
Messages
65
Thank you for responding. I was wondering if anyone really read this! Lol
I’ll figure this out and I’m 99.4% sure it’s my fault somehow. You can find a lot of negative posts about FiTech but you don’t see many positives. Because why would you post if all is working right? I intend to see this through and will post my results come hell or high water!!
God bless and stay healthy!
 
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blknblu69v

Jr. Member
Joined
Jul 5, 2012
Messages
65
I got it running! Handheld still requires direct battery power but seems to be working. Went for an hour test drive. The longer I went the tougher it ran. Act’s went to 20+. Couldnt accelerate. Nursed it back home. Opened good while idle and fuel pressure gauge before throttle body was 110#!
I’m running a 3/8 return line back to my rear tank on my 69 bronco. It is reduced to a 3/8 hose barb by 1/4” mnpt brass fitting going into the poly tank. Could this be too restrictive and causing excess pressure that is a problem for the throttle body regulator?
Or, do I need to adjust my pump settings thru the handheld?
Getting closer!!!
 

Eoth

Bronco Guru
Joined
Mar 10, 2004
Messages
1,677
Where is your pressure gauge? The Fitech throttle body has an internal regulator that will reduce it down to 43psi. Your pump will generate whatever it is designed to produce. The return line is "open ended" so the pressure should be low/minimal. The controller does not reduce the pressure but you can control the "pulses" of the pump that you can use to reduce some of the excessive pressure that your pump might be producing.
As for return lines, Fitech says no smaller that 3/8". I am reduced to 5/16 at one point and is working fine.
 
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blknblu69v

Jr. Member
Joined
Jul 5, 2012
Messages
65
I have the FiTech pump mounted on a crossmember just in front of the rear tank, running 3/8" HP fuel line with 6AN fittings into the engine compartment, thru a 6AN in/out fuel filter, with a 0-110 psi gauge to the throttle body.
So you think the regulator can handle the 100# pressure? This is not too much?
One suggestion I got was to go into Edit Tuning and change the Fast Accel@170. Could this resolve the issue?
 

Eoth

Bronco Guru
Joined
Mar 10, 2004
Messages
1,677
I am not sure of the max pressure the regulator can handle but the "Fitech branded inline pump" (which I don't recommend) is rated at 90 PSI max pressure.
The only thing I would do with the controller (since yours is used) is to do a "reset learn" and start over with the "stock calibration". It should run pretty good from the beginning. I would not touch a single setting until it is running "pretty good", and then I would let it learn on its own. After a couple of months, then you can start playing with numbers to fine-tune. If you have issues at the beginning, you either have a install problem or a defective/broken part.
 

Eoth

Bronco Guru
Joined
Mar 10, 2004
Messages
1,677
Just noodling you issue... Have you seen the Fuel pickup inside your tank? I have seen where an the old mesh screen/sock gets sucked in and restricts flow. It will run ok at idle but like crap under load.
 
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blknblu69v

Jr. Member
Joined
Jul 5, 2012
Messages
65
I have the new Handheld V2 that FiTech sold me after I first had the on/off controller issue. I did the initial set up with the new controller so I’m guessing that I am starting fresh and the ECU is still learning.
I just started the engine, seemed to idle fine. Let it warm up to temp. Took it for a 10 mile ride. Went well until I got on it a little from a stop. Went up to around 3000 rpms but didn’t want to shift (c4 tranny) let off throttle a little, it shifted, then Afr‘s went to 20 and ran rough again. Nurses it back to garage, let it idle bounced between 600-800rpms on its own. Gauge on fuel line was showing past the 100#. Shut it down
 
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blknblu69v

Jr. Member
Joined
Jul 5, 2012
Messages
65
And, I was so ticked off the other day, I ordered the Holley Sniper throttle body that comes with controller and O2 sensor. I thought if I could get this FiTech working I would return the Holley? But, Now wondering if I need a new in-line pump to go with the Holley if I decide to change it out?
 

bronkenn

Contributor
Bronco Guy
Joined
Apr 27, 2017
Messages
2,662
Loc.
Southeast Ohio
That Fitech requires 58 psi to run correctly. Your pressure regulator on the right side of unit is not working correctly. Sounds like something got in there from the fuel line. I had mine do this twice last year and I was talking to Tom of Lick Creek Resto fame and he said the filter that Fitech recommends isn't small enough to filter the fuel properly. The regulator gets stuck from the small particles.
 
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blknblu69v

Jr. Member
Joined
Jul 5, 2012
Messages
65
I think I might have found an issue? I’ve was looking at the return line back into the rear tank and noticed it wet with gas around the brass barb fitting I had installed. I’m thinking that fitting/tank connection is too restrictive causing excessive pump pressure. So when I accelerate hard it’s going lean because of the lack of return flow?
I ordered an efi return kit that ties into the fuel fill neck of the rear tank. Hopefully this takes care of this issue.
 
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blknblu69v

Jr. Member
Joined
Jul 5, 2012
Messages
65
That Fitech requires 58 psi to run correctly. Your pressure regulator on the right side of unit is not working correctly. Sounds like something got in there from the fuel line. I had mine do this twice last year and I was talking to Tom of Lick Creek Resto fame and he said the filter that Fitech recommends isn't small enough to filter the fuel properly. The regulator gets stuck from the small particles.
Is this fuel regulator replaceable or does it need to go back to FiTech?
 
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