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LORE Bronco restore

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halogrinder

halogrinder

Jr. Member
Joined
Jul 15, 2017
Messages
131
Loc.
Houston
Got it back today. Gonna have to do some work that I've already paid for to be done- but its just not worth arguing with them. Fuck em.
The front skid plate had these torched out holes in it for some reason.
Fixed that up.

Powdercoater will see me on monday for a buncha stuff

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sprdv1

Contributor
REBEL
Joined
Mar 8, 2007
Messages
81,734
Always something ain't it.. Makin progress though..
 
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halogrinder

halogrinder

Jr. Member
Joined
Jul 15, 2017
Messages
131
Loc.
Houston
took stuff apart.
Dropped it off at the powder coater.
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Then I got to working on where the dude missed spots on the sand blasting :rubs temples:
Everywhere you see green is from me grinding something off he missed, and throwing some acid etching primer on there to cover the bare metal.
I have a few spots on the body that have a pin hole or something that I need to weld up and then its time to smear every joint/crack/seam with some Lord Fuser 123EZ seam sealer.

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Bought some 5/8x18 threaded shaft so i can make extensions on my bearing puller to pull the bearings off the center sections and pinions.
then, off to the machine shop to use the rod honing machine and make some setup bearings so i dont have to press them on and off a bunch of times.
Ordered a few things here/there, waiting for them to show up.
some 3/16 and 3/8 hard line for brake and fuel lines, a 9" third member tool so I can set it up on the engine stand, and some other random things to keep me busy while I wait for powder coating to be done.

I've got a few different bodyshops that are giving me bids after inspecting the body on who's motivated to do it, who doesn't want to, and who's realistically going to do it within a reasonable budget, with a quality job.
 

DirtDonk

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Nov 3, 2003
Messages
47,345
Nice. Great seeing so many progress pics. Thanks for taking the time.
I know you're doing it as personal documentation for your project, but it's cool we get to share them too!

Paul
 

sprdv1

Contributor
REBEL
Joined
Mar 8, 2007
Messages
81,734
Keep plugging away.. Just a matter of time

took stuff apart.
Dropped it off at the powder coater.

Everywhere you see green is from me grinding something off he missed, and throwing some acid etching primer on there to cover the bare metal.
I have a few spots on the body that have a pin hole or something that I need to weld up and then its time to smear every joint/crack/seam with some Lord Fuser 123EZ seam sealer.

Bought some 5/8x18 threaded shaft so i can make extensions on my bearing puller to pull the bearings off the center sections and pinions.
then, off to the machine shop to use the rod honing machine and make some setup bearings so i dont have to press them on and off a bunch of times.
Ordered a few things here/there, waiting for them to show up.
some 3/16 and 3/8 hard line for brake and fuel lines, a 9" third member tool so I can set it up on the engine stand, and some other random things to keep me busy while I wait for powder coating to be done.

I've got a few different bodyshops that are giving me bids after inspecting the body on who's motivated to do it, who doesn't want to, and who's realistically going to do it within a reasonable budget, with a quality job.
 

mrdrnac

Contributor
Sr. Member
Joined
Feb 6, 2010
Messages
524
Here are photos of the Cepek wingnuts and bent 3/8 inch bolt.
 

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halogrinder

halogrinder

Jr. Member
Joined
Jul 15, 2017
Messages
131
Loc.
Houston
Yanked the column apart to replace the bearings, and clean it up.
Shaved the 3 speed fingers that came out of the bottom.
cut the shaft in anticipation for the flaming rivers ujoint setup I have but need to measure when its in the truck.

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I got the old bottom bearing out by dropping the shaft in backwards, using a magnet to stick the steering wheel nut in there.... and bloop.

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shaved the hole.
Off to powdercoat

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Got my seam sealer in-
the dual tube gun i have doesn't fit.
sigh.
.

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Had to get some 5/8x18 shaft and nuts to run the bearing splitter under my press so I could get the carrier bearings off.

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DirtDonk

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Nov 3, 2003
Messages
47,345
Very creative press fixture!
Is that a Dana Power-Lok (or Powr-Lok, or Powerlock, or whatever lock!)?

Paul
 

sprdv1

Contributor
REBEL
Joined
Mar 8, 2007
Messages
81,734
Great shots of all the little things getting taken care of..

Keep up the good work
 
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halogrinder

halogrinder

Jr. Member
Joined
Jul 15, 2017
Messages
131
Loc.
Houston
Very creative press fixture!
Is that a Dana Power-Lok (or Powr-Lok, or Powerlock, or whatever lock!)?

Paul

Unsure of "what" it is, other than I know it's a limited slip :D
It was in the front end- I'll take it apart/inspect/clean/reassemble and throw the 4.56's on it.

what I was TRYING to do was save the bearings, so i could hone them out a bit and use them for setup bearings vs having to press them off and on a bunch of times.
This one didn't make it :/

I have a locker sitting on the shelf for a Dana30 out of my jeep that may have the same bearing size. if it does, I'll try to get at least 2 of the 3 bearings left off in one piece so I can do that.
Still need to pull the pinion bearings off the 30 and 9", and carrier bearings on the 9" as well to swap over to the powerloc I have for it.

The idea of the press set up was because I didn't have a specific bearing puller tool that is available from Yukon gear.... and I needed some extensions for my puller anyways for odd stuff like this.

Creative thinking is my specialty :D

Great shots of all the little things getting taken care of..

Keep up the good work
Thanks
 
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halogrinder

halogrinder

Jr. Member
Joined
Jul 15, 2017
Messages
131
Loc.
Houston
Test run on the next level of stupidity I'm doing lol
Need to adjust the heatshrink cut length now that I know how much it shrinks......
this should be neat looking :D

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The bottom is almost done.
This Lord Fuser 123ez is actually pretty easy to work with if you follow this advice.
Plan on one tube to take about 3 hours.
Plan on destroying at least 3-5 shop rags.
"ACCEPT THE STICKINESS"
It's got a consistency of about honey- and it wipes off moderately easy off your hands.....
so make one booger picker on your hand "the finger" to smear/wipe/push/puddle it around.
It levels pretty well, even on it's side like this.

I dropped my second tube right on the freaking neck about 3 pumps in lol
It was making a mess blowing out the side of the tube, so I ended up cutting/mixing it on a cardboard chunk and using a putty knife to apply on places that's going to be bedlined.....
I wasn't going to let $65 in seam sealer go to waste- so now I have another tube coming to try and finish up the rest of the body where some somewhat accuracy and neatness needs to be done-
I'm doing every single seam/overlap/joint.
Why not. Do it once, do it right.

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got the frame, axles and a bunch of stuff back from powder coating :cool::cool:

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Started working on the rear diff.
4.56 gears, Track Lock limited slip, 31 spline axles and disc brakes are on deck.

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halogrinder

halogrinder

Jr. Member
Joined
Jul 15, 2017
Messages
131
Loc.
Houston
Happy with the pattern that I've got on the 9".
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Ugh. Organizing bolts sucks.

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While waiting on new hardware, getting bolts and nuts cleaned up I jumped on the heater box.
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Using Science to get rust off of it rather than mechanically blasting the rust off from a sand blaster.

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A few runs through my ultrasonic cleaner and the original boot came out pretty dang nice!

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New heater core, new foam

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A big blower and motor from Toms Bronco parts, and she's back together ready to be dropped in when I get the body back

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halogrinder

halogrinder

Jr. Member
Joined
Jul 15, 2017
Messages
131
Loc.
Houston
Sheesh I'm embarrassed. I wanted to show how I mounted the body to the frame of the rotisserie

n all the google searching, no one had really good pics of a rotisserie mount for these things.
I found body carts, wooden frames, some random pics that showed paint jobs on top, some questionable mounting ways-
so here's how I did it.

I got some 2.5 box tubing, 20' sticks.
I cut them 14 feet long.
I'm using the most okayest chinesium made rotisserie, so it is what it is :D
The ends that mount to the rotisserie are square tube in 2" form. the end is cut at a 45 degree angle, and there is a 1/2" or so hole.
So, I took my rotabroach, and cut a 1/2" hole on one side of the tubing. on the other side, I cut a 3/4" hole. I slid a piece of 3/4" tubing inside and it butted up to the bottom of the mount/hole. I then put a chunk of allthread through it and now it's pinched the mount to the top of the square tubing, and secured it to the 2.5" tubing.

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then, I welded a few nuts on 3 sides so I could "tune" the angle of the tubing mount inside my frame rails of 2.5" tubing. I initially drilled 2 holes per sides, but realized this is plenty strong as it is.

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So, getting the square tubing square on the rotisserie was a little entertaining. The sliding mounts have some angle built into them im assuming to "lock" or wedge themselves onto the frame arms- so there was a little hammering/deadblow action to get them on/holes and tubing mounted/squared up and 26.5" wide which is the width of the mounts in the bed.

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The "dumbass of the day" award for not wearing gloves and getting a big fat cherry in the pocket of my hand

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Tadaa!

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Finally got to clean the floor lol

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So, the way i found my holes-
I squared the tubing under the back two body mount holes in the bed as best as possible, then squared under the core support area.

dropped all thread down the holes and used that to help a bit using 7/16" rod.
Think of really bad plumb bobs.
Cut 7" chunks and welded outriggers for the A pillars. next time do it 8"
Repeat the dropping all thread thru the hole and looking for its target.
Repeat for the core support, but I put them on top of the rails rather than flush to suck up some of the distance.

nut in the bed/rod thru the body/washer/nut/shaft--- nut/washer/tube/washer/nut.
make sense? lol
pics make it easier.

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halogrinder

halogrinder

Jr. Member
Joined
Jul 15, 2017
Messages
131
Loc.
Houston
Powder coat came out pretty nice on this stuff. I'm an idiot, and didn't flap disc the factory weld spatter down before powdercoating it :/

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I popped open the Centech wiring harness I got for it, and a few things come to mind-
One, this electrical taped bullshit is not going to fly.
Two, this incorrectly sized looming isn't going to fly.
Three, the instructions are marginal, at best- and that's being nice.
Four, there is no wiring harness schematic that comes with the kit.
Five, I emailed Centech asking if they had a legitimate wiring schematic for their harness and was told no, that is based on a factory harness (sort of).

This is disturbing to me.
I'm not putting a harness in that I can't diagnose or understand where everything goes- besides the fact that I'll be adding fuel injection, an additional fuel pump for the Aux tank to pump into the main, the main fuel pump, and lights.
So........ I guess I'll be laying this out, recording what's been written on the wires themselves, and making my own schematic to put in a binder.

Frankly this pisses me off that I have to do this.
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Body shop painted a test panel for me
I LOVE my ultrasonic machine- it pulled this paint off the door latches.
I was able to save the door latches by ultrasonic cleaning them- it stripped all the paint off and made the original silver zinc coating look great!

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Using more science to remove yuck from hardware and fasteners.

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