Carburetor link rod?

Not to hijack this thread but does anyone know how to adjust that linkage rod? They screw both directions and I don't know what length they should be. Thanks.

Not so much of a hijack, as a segué to the side. But good info for someone looking in the future.

I have not read any procedures, but I'll take a stab at it before jckkys gets here to fill in the blanks.
1. With it disconnected from the carb, adjust your idle (fully warmed up of course) so that it's where you want.
2. Start by pulling the throttle linkage bell-crank all the way forward towards the carb to make sure that the rod is long enough to not cause the throttle to not close fully.
3. Now open the throttle all the way and hold it there. Push the bell-crank arm rearward until you feel the gas pedal hit the floor and the movement stops. Don't force it.
4. Adjust the rod length so that it just slips over the ball stud.

Doing it this way would (it seems to me) let you get full pedal travel, open the carb all the way, without having the gas pedal too high off the floor at idle. A high pedal is a pain in the hips! But it's also your minimum setting. Too short and the arm can hang the idle up. Too long and you don't get full throttle.

Once it's set the way you think it should work, have someone go in and push the pedal to the floor while you verify that the throttle arm is opening all the way and you're not leaving any on the table.
If it's not quite, then shorten the rod a little.

There is probably a procedure in the book. And others here have probably done it a million times. My Bronco has the triple-secret probation cantilever bell-crank double anchor on the firewall type that was mentioned earlier. Never had one of these simpler newer versions.

Good luck. Let us know how it goes.

Paul

Awesome. The carb rebuild kits are good for many adjustments I've never seen this one explained. Thanks.

The only difference I've seen in the early and late fire wall bell cranks is the relative angles of the arms. The late (I think after '69) has arms that are nearly parallel. The '60s version had the arms about 30 degrees different. The effect of this is that the early bell crank would use a carb link that's about 1.5" to 2" longer than those with the late fire wall bell crank. I think this is within the adjustment range of the link. If not, those with the early bell crank may want an F150 link rod. These are about 3.25" longer than late EB link rods. If that works out to be too long, just cut some off after doing a 90 degree. I used a propane torch to get the bent area red hot so it bends easy.
Paul lost me on the triple-secret probation cantilever bell crank, unless it's the same as the early version.

Yes. AKA the '72 and older early version.;D

Paul

Right they changed when the C4s became an option and the intake bell crank went away to make room for the kick down rod. Thanks for the reminder. I had to think about it.