Edelbrock Pro Flo

With the encouragement from my wife, I pulled the trigger on an Edelbrock Pro Flo 4 EFI and TBP 23 gallon efi tank w internal pump. For how I drive, I've been fairly content with rebuilding and running autolite/motorcraft 2bbl for yeeears, but its time to eliminate their shortcomings.

Thanks so much for others that have gone before me and were willing to share their experience and advise on the pro-flo.

If I find the time to be patient, I'll take pics and notes along the way. Really looks pretty straightforward but if I can save someone else some grief later on, all the better.

What is the general overall condition of the rest of the wiring on your Bronco?
I would advise making sure that the rest of the system is there to support, or at least not to hinder the installation of a modern computer operated system.

Can't wait to see the progress!

Paul

DirtDonk said:

What is the general overall condition of the rest of the wiring on your Bronco?
I would advise making sure that the rest of the system is there to support, or at least not to hinder the installation of a modern computer operated system.

Can't wait to see the progress!

Paul

Click to expand...

Thx Paul

Wiring is relatively good. Old but good. Will start with new, addl and better grounds. Block to frame and body...

Will also add some modern relays. Not sure what alternator is in it. Definitely miss the explorer serpentine, cooling and 4g alt on last bronco. Project for another time.

Nice.. Hopefully works great for you

SavageBurro said:

With the encouragement from my wife, I pulled the trigger on an Edelbrock Pro Flo 4 EFI and TBP 23 gallon efi tank w internal pump. For how I drive, I've been fairly content with rebuilding and running autolite/motorcraft 2bbl for yeeears, but its time to eliminate their shortcomings.

Thanks so much for others that have gone before me and were willing to share their experience and advise on the pro-flo.

If I find the time to be patient, I'll take pics and notes along the way. Really looks pretty straightforward but if I can save someone else some grief later on, all the better.

Click to expand...

Looking forward to every step on the transformation of carb to Edelbrock EFI. Please document every (not any;D) shortcomings along the way.

Looking forward to the feedback. I had a tough time with the Holley Sniper when it first came out. Ended up going back to carb. Been eying the Pro-flo and will be great to hear your experience.

SavageBurro said:

Will also add some modern relays.

Click to expand...

They definitely help, where needed.
Speaking of relays, if you ever have need to replace the starter relay with a new one, might as well use the "new" style too, as would have been used on the Mountaineer/Explorer it came from.

SavageBurro said:

Not sure what alternator is in it.

Click to expand...

As long as it's in good shape you should be good to go.
But I would at least make sure that it's a 60 or 65 amp version of the stock style. Any less and there's not much headroom for it to get old and tired and "noisy" in the electrical scheme of things.
If it's older, you'll know soon enough if it's not computer-friendly. Having it tested beforehand might be a bit of overkill, but not if you think it's questionable. In that case, it's just a good bit of preventative maintenance.

I'm keeping the 100a large case 1G on my big truck until it dies, then go the 3G route. I think it will be fine. But already sold the wonderful old workhorse 70a large case 1G off the '71, so it's getting the 4G upgrade along with the Explorer accessory drive.

Paul

Ol'Blue said:

Looking forward to the feedback. I had a tough time with the Holley Sniper when it first came out. Ended up going back to carb. Been eying the Pro-flo and will be great to hear your experience.

Click to expand...

Most cases, both work alright but you always have a few that just don't want to work right

DirtDonk said:

They definitely help, where needed.
Speaking of relays, if you ever have need to replace the starter relay with a new one, might as well use the "new" style too, as would have been used on the Mountaineer/Explorer it came from.



As long as it's in good shape you should be good to go.
But I would at least make sure that it's a 60 or 65 amp version of the stock style. Any less and there's not much headroom for it to get old and tired and "noisy" in the electrical scheme of things.
If it's older, you'll know soon enough if it's not computer-friendly. Having it tested beforehand might be a bit of overkill, but not if you think it's questionable. In that case, it's just a good bit of preventative maintenance.

I'm keeping the 100a large case 1G on my big truck until it dies, then go the 3G route. I think it will be fine. But already sold the wonderful old workhorse 70a large case 1G off the '71, so it's getting the 4G upgrade along with the Explorer accessory drive.

Paul

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As always - thank you very much Paul. Your advice, input is always appreciated!

bronco loco said:

Looking forward to every step on the transformation of carb to Edelbrock EFI. Please document every (not any;D) shortcomings along the way.

Click to expand...

Will do my best!

Wow. All the 'extra' stuff sure adds up.

3g Alternator (didn't have any at local jy that tested good) bought new 170
Fancy high ems supress msd plug wires: 100
New plugs: 30
rtv: 10
threat sealant: 10
antiseize: 10
gasgacinch: 9
gasket remover: 10
antifreeze and dist water: 40
new solder iron and solder: 30
wire loom: 25
ground wires: 20
rear efi tank w pump: 750
fuel lines, filter, fittings: 250
block off plate: 10
adj fuel press reg: 88
arp intake studs: 60
c4 kickdown & throttle adapter bracket: 60
lokar throttle linkage (may return and modify stock to work): 61
coil:40
fuel pump relay and harness: 24
will probably need hood scoop or orig bronco air cleaner. my low pro won't clear w 1" body lift and 351.: 130-230
replace manifolds w good used shorty headers: 150
replace rusted out exhaust (not figured out what wanted yet): 200-500
water pump: 40
pro flo 4 w tablet: 1900

Adds up to: ouch.

Still working through the install. Thus far, the only real issue is the edges of the intake need to be ground about 1/8" on each side in order to clear the stock 351w heads. IF I had used standard intake bolts vs studs- I 'might' have been able to sneak it in, but that would have run the risk of messing up the rtv on each end. Oh and the shorty headers required removal of the inner fender on passenger side, and the brake lines to prop valve and dipstick interfered w driver side header.

Took quite a bit of time studying electrical diagrams to make sure what wiring I can safely remove - including the wiring to the duraspark module, coil, neutral safety switch, voltage regulator etc....

Ouch is right LOL I try not to track that any more

Thought I'd post a pic of the work in progress. Still lots to do.

Note, I was able to modify the stock throttle linkage to work by simply bending the bracket on the firewall and lengthening the adjustable rod out an inch. I bent the bracket toward the passenger side so the rod can move straight forward and back with the linkage on the throttle body. Even though it's a bit of an angle up and down, it seems to work smooth. I like this better than looping a throttle cable.

I currently have a low profile air cleaner with a base that is below the top of throttle body, using a 3" tall filter. I have a 1" body lift and the assembly is still too tall and keeps the hood from closing. I 'think' a 2" filter will allow it to fit and hopefully still give 'some' room at the top of the throttle body.

The top of the throttle linkage barely hits the bottom of the air filter base. Should fit if I trim the top of the linkage. I am using the second hole down from the top to mount the throttle linkage - so there should be no issues cutting off the top 1/2" - 3/4" of material.

Next up I'm going to build little L brackets mounted to the sides of the fan shroud so I can cut the shroud into two pieces making install and removal much much easier. Extremely hard to reach the fan /water pump pulley bolts otherwise... and since I may later upsize from 17" 5 blade fan to 18" 7 blade fan and/or downsize water pump pulley from 6.1" diameter to 5.5" pulley it will make that much less of a pain. I didn't overheat before, but it wanted to run a tad warm... that could have been due to the carb sucking in un-metered air through the throttle shaft. .. But the air flow at idle seemed to be less than stellar. I know I should just upgrade now, but my budget has already been blown by a lot so will just install and see.

Not so interesting story on water pump. Since the motor is a 5.8 / 351w with 1974 build date (obviously not original bronco motor), I looked for all the ford vehicles with that motor to match the water pump. Interestingly, other than some higher dollar aftermarket pumps, none of the replacement water pumps for similar year 351 came with the bolt hole right next to and above the lower radiator hose. The only water pump I found that matched up perfectly was from a 74-75 bronco w 302.

I'm guessing it would have been fine using one of the pumps that didn't have a hole for that bolt, but really didn't want to.

Perhaps the original swapper used the original timing cover from the Bronco. Which would explain why the Bronco pump fits the best.
Too late to see it now, but by any chance did you take any detailed shots of the timing cover to see if there are any numbers there?

And while you're at the height-checking stage for the EFI/intake setup, can you get some quick measurements to post up? I'm sure Edelbrock has the height of the intake on their site (they used to do that very consistently) but not sure if they list full dimensions of the throttle-body.
Maybe you can put a total together for reference.

Thanks!

Paul

DirtDonk said:

Perhaps the original swapper used the original timing cover from the Bronco. Which would explain why the Bronco pump fits the best.
Too late to see it now, but by any chance did you take any detailed shots of the timing cover to see if there are any numbers there?

And while you're at the height-checking stage for the EFI/intake setup, can you get some quick measurements to post up? I'm sure Edelbrock has the height of the intake on their site (they used to do that very consistently) but not sure if they list full dimensions of the throttle-body.
Maybe you can put a total together for reference.

Thanks!

Paul

Click to expand...

[Perhaps the original swapper used the original timing cover from the Bronco. Which would explain why the Bronco pump fits the best.]

Well, that just makes too much sense.

[Too late to see it now, but by any chance did you take any detailed shots of the timing cover to see if there are any numbers there?]

Sorry, I did not.

[And while you're at the height-checking stage for the EFI/intake setup, can you get some quick measurements to post up? I'm sure Edelbrock has the height of the intake on their site (they used to do that very consistently) but not sure if they list full dimensions of the throttle-body.
Maybe you can put a total together for reference.]

Be glad to!

Didnt do a good job keeping track of all the work but got er goin. Wow, it really woke up my motor. Gobs of power w excellent cold or hot starts. Still idles a tad rough but not knowing what cam is in it... could be the cam or some internal issue. Does..seem to be getting smoother as it learns. Still runs on warm side so definitely going to undersize water pump pulley and go to 18" fan to pull more air.

The biggest issue is throttle sensitivity due to the way my linkage is set up. Will see if I can change the throw. Rt now its...barely touch the pedal to accelerate and anything more it's really hard to keep from roasting the tires.

Great to hear! Thanks for the follow-up.

Paul

Was pleasantly surprised to have it fire right up and run good. The interface/ app on the tablet is super easy to use. Made sure all electrical was good and exhaust had no leaks beforehand. Also...all the connections were nicely labeled. Might have preferred a slightly longer harness in couple spots but very useable.

At initial start the adjustable fuel press regulator gauge read quite a bit different than the edelbrock app said the sensor recognized. The map I used called for 43 psi so I set regulator to 43 but app said sensor read 50+ psi...so I dialed the regulator down until the app read 43 at the sensor. One of em is off...I'm assuming it's the manual gauge on the regulator

Do you think there is there a progressive linkage kit like there is for the Sniper?
I wonder if it's retrofit-able?
Or will you just make your own? Longer arm, or custom "variable" setup?

Paul

For clarification...the throttle sensitivity is my own fault. In order to clear the drop air cleaner base, I used the lower hole on throttle arm then cut the end to clear.

2" body lift or hood scoop wld solve it.

I plan to make a longer throw somewhere in the linkage.