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73 Explorer Rebuild: year 8/9/10/11

Dan's73

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Joined
Oct 17, 2006
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1,116
Hope you're feeling better now so you can take advantage of the record high temps we're having...if the work/wife schedule allows you should be able to get a ton done this weekend!
 
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73azbronco

73azbronco

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Funny you should mention, going to Dr tomorrow to figure why Im still hacking up chunks, after three weeks.

But, today was a banner day, all EVAP, fuel and brake lines along frame top and into proportioning valve complete. I used stainless fuel lines, Copper nickel brake lines and EVAP line.

Word of caution, I was going to use the plastic coated brake line from NAPA, but every time I tried to flare the coating cracked off and looked horrible.

Truck is ready for delivery back to Driven, 2 months late, hope to get that done PM Friday, hope Randy can see to squeeze me in to get body back on. Then, body on, roll cage in, exhaust on, and back to me to finish everything else.

Oh, roof is done at paint shop, photos tomorrow.
 
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73azbronco

73azbronco

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Forward momentum, finally...

Bronco at Driven, newly finished top back from paint.

Photos:

347 stroker with explorer front serpentine, 130amp 3Gm Denso AC comp

Frame ready for body

Rear of frame showing fuel lines, feed and return, and EVAP line along passenger side.

Rear view.

Shot of completed top with Wimbeldon white using textured/bed liner top and inside and smooth gloss sides.


Bad news, Randy says I may have an issue with my "Bronco specific" Canton 7qt oil pan. Perfect. It seems since I'm going manual, I really can't use the driver side frame as an exit because of clutch bar, and the pan won't let an exhaust tube cross over in front of the bellhousing. Soooo, he is going to have his exhaust guy take a look see and decide if I need to go back to a regular oil pan, or dual exhaust. If it isn't one thing, it's another.


Next, clean garage.
 

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73azbronco

73azbronco

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Exhaust success, went and mocked up an exhaust route from driver header, dropping below clutch idler arm, and hugging frame rail to behind D20, then cross over below rear output shaft to a 2 into 1 muffler.

Thank goodness for Home Depo 2 inch PVC.
 
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73azbronco

73azbronco

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NV4500 Canton 7qt oil pan and exhaust solution

Here is the exhaust solution to the NV4500 and an oil pan you cannot crossover to passenger side with route.
 

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73azbronco

73azbronco

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Just back for last time from Driven Auto in Phoenix. Randy and crew did a fantastic job of finishing it up so I can finish my parts. Added this trip was side nerf bar, bumpers from protofab, fuel tank, muffler and exhaust system, roll cage.

I need to: finish it.

wiring harness, going with painless.

Vintage air.

Hydroboost from WH.

Still need to purchase steering column, winch.

Hope to have it driveable by end of summer, then decide how bad I want to paint exterior as this will be used offroad.
 

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broncobsession

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Aug 12, 2001
Messages
4,049
Man that looks awesome. That exterior looks great from where I'm sitting...it is perfect for wheeling :)
 
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73azbronco

73azbronco

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Thanks, I made the decision today to NOT paint the exterior, except for the roof. Everything in and under is repainted or powder coated. I'm going to get some use out of it, then if I decide later, spend the money to paint the exterior.

Oh well, guess I shouldn't have pulled off the flares four years ago...
 
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73azbronco

73azbronco

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So as a small reward before I departed on a business trip, I decided to install the NV4500 shifter arm. In keeping with my two steps forward, four steps back rebuild protocol, The threaded rod in the kit didn't fit the shifter adapter. Called Advance Adapters and they have the correct part coming to me.:(

Or maybe they don't. Seems WH does not sell the NV4500 kit anymore, they have no parts. AA has the part but wants me to buy it, even though they are the ones who dropped shipped the kit to me and sent me the wrong one, yes, this was a year or so ago, sorry, I'm not Foose able to turn a truck in 60 minutes.
 
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73azbronco

73azbronco

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108F in the shade

Finally rigged up a swamp cooler to cool garage, installed Mastercraft seats for fit, and placed Tuffy center console in place, looks like I need about 1 inch shims under it to clear center seatbelt holes. Cleaned off linex with water and ready for Dynomat Extreme install.

Advance adapters sent new shifter arm adapter works now, but note interference in 1st and 2lo. Will need to bend rear wheel D20 twinstick.

If anybody wants to know Mastercraft Baja seats sit 8 inches from base of floor with their rails, very nice!
 

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73azbronco

73azbronco

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Thanks, I'm now hoping months to go instead of lately thinking, years.

Went to junkyard before the surface of the streets started to melt and pulled 10 cargo tie down brackets out of rear end of S10 or Suburbans. These are great, plan to mount a few under rear seatbelt bolts and corners of rollcage brackets.

Seats back out, started dynomat and carpet install.

Powdercoated dash back, looks great, managed to perfectly match Grabber Blue.

Pics of carpet "relaxing" for a few days before it gets screwed down. Figue I'll let this 108F temp do some work for me.

Pic of aftermath of reposition of JBFAb twinstick arms and NV4500 shifter using heat (I call Thor God of Fire option, yes I know Thor is not god of fire..) to keep them from interfering at gear 2 and rear wheel D20 at 2LO

So, should I leave the stainless with the heat marks? I think it's cool. I'm going to repaint or powder the NV shifter arm.
 

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73azbronco

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Still too stinking hot.... But, Gen IV and BCB VA Hybrid air system

I have decided, via much discussion with the parties in the know (Vintage Air designer), to install a Hybrid Gen IV Vintage air unit and a BCB VA unit.

Why? The Gen IV has a larger evaporator, and has a larger outflow segment to move more air.

Full disclosure, I bought both systems to find both units use the exact same blower motor. However, the Gen IV systems larger outlet, and larger Evap unit make it my first choice here in the heat. I am not dissing the BCB unit which appears fine for everyplace that doesn't reach 121 degrees F, but the Gen IV appears like a better choice for Phoenix.

Now the problems, I'm going to lose half my glove box. So much for my powedercoated Tuffyglovebox. I'm going to have to make custom AC lines from the evap to the BCB firewall connector.

The first picture shows the comparison between the Gen IV and the BCB which is actually called a compact unit used in street rods. Note the three air outlets for the BCB unit (one on right) are as I measured them about 2/3rds as big as the Gen IV outlet on the left (part with grey foam around it)

The next picture pictures shows the unit is very close to the top of the body, however it allows about three inches of clearance to route heater and AC lines over the unit, instead of out the passenger fresh air vent (per the Bronco Gen IV install). I did not want to use that system because I have a plan to use the passenger air hood inlet as my cold air inlet for the motor.

Next picture is approximate location for BCB firewall fitting.

Last pic is air ducts mated showing how little room there is.

I admit, if you had to install this with the dash on, I would chose the BCB unit hands down, my plan is only doable dash off.

So I am essentially using everything from the BCB system that is in the engine compartment (except I'm using an Explorer Denso compressor). Except I need to rotate the firewall connectors 90 degrees.

And I am using everything from the Gen IV system inside the cab, the Evap side.

More later, when it cools, and the dust storms stop rolling into town...
 

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Wyflyer

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Apr 1, 2008
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2,920
How is this working out? Would there be a benefit to raising the cowl sheet metal above the unit?
 
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73azbronco

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Sorry for delay, no I think it will fit fine without sheetmetal work. All I need is the thickness of the hoses which will pass above the unit, and I think I have twice what's needed.

Delay caused by change in job title, more training, way less free time. I wont be able to dive back into the truck until March/May.
 
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