• Welcome to ClassicBroncos! - You are currently viewing the forums as a GUEST. To take advantage of all the site features, please take a moment to register. It's fast, simple and absolutely free. So please join our community today!
    If you have problems registering or can't log into your account, please contact Admin.

New Build Thread-Project MACK the Halfcab

OP
OP
rpmgarage22

rpmgarage22

Full Member
Joined
May 5, 2015
Messages
162
The Work:

As the pics will show, MACK had some brake issues. The passenger side wheel cylinder had been leaking...apparently for quite some time. Eventually, the cylinder fully expanded and "froze", which locked the shoes against the drum.

To remove the passenger drum, I did the following:
1) Using two smaller slotted screwdrivers, I reached into the adjuster window and forced the adjuster to relieve tension by rolling it in the opposite direction. In other words, I "unadjusted" the passenger drum.
2) I struck the outer radius of the drum all the way around with a deadblow hammer. This is to "mechanically" break up the marriage of the shoe material to the inside of the drum.
3) Tried to remove...didn't budge.
4) I heated the drum surface around the wheel styds with MAPP gas, leaving the original lug nuts within a few threads of actually touching the drum. This helps to force the heat between the stud and the holes in the drum.
5) Tried to remove...didn't budge.
6) MOVE TO NEXT LARGEST HAMMER!
7) I used a radiused (read: too lazy to keep it sharp so I threw it in the back of the tool box) cold chisel and a 32oz ball peen hammer. I lined the cold chisel up on the back side of the drum lip and hit it with medium blows with the ball peen.
8) Moving 90º at a time, it began to "break loose" on the third position.
9) From there, it was back to the dead blow and just keep pecking away until it came off.
10) Pics show just how much brake fluid and crud were there. And these were taken AFTER the first "cleaning" with brake cleaner.
11) From that point, it was just R&R work. I took time to wire brush and degrease everything, then painted the inside of the backing plates with satin black. Also, painted the new drums satin black. (NOTE: In the new drum pic, the silver that you see is anti-sieze. I coat the studs, and also dab a little on the spacer to give the aluminum and steel a small barrier. Then, I tighten the lugs down to about 50ft lbs, and remove the spacer. This lets me see a pattern on the new drum to help verify that it is meeting flush with the spacer. As you can see in the pic, it looks pretty good. Ran out of anti-sieze at this point...)
12) Then, reassembled.

I did not have enough time to actually bleed the brakes or go any further, as it was dark and cold by that time.

I am running new lines on the diff and to the cyliinders anyway. Hope to hit that this weekend.

This week's hit to the budget:
Brake Components- 191.96
Drums, Shoes, Cylinders, Hardware, Park Brake Rebuild kit. All parts
Raybestos and Wagner.
Labor- 2.5 hours 125.00
Total today- $316.96

Remaining in budget- $24762.55
Minus Today- 316.96

Total remaining in budget- $24,445.59

Next post will be some "Unboxing New Parts" pics, as I received a lot of parts for the next few stages in the last week or so.

Thank you for tuning in!
 

Attachments

  • Driver Side First pic.jpg
    Driver Side First pic.jpg
    147.9 KB · Views: 38
  • New Drvr Drum 2.jpg
    New Drvr Drum 2.jpg
    250.9 KB · Views: 45
  • New Drvr Drum.jpg
    New Drvr Drum.jpg
    154.7 KB · Views: 47
  • New Shoes.jpg
    New Shoes.jpg
    158.3 KB · Views: 41
  • Left rear bare.jpg
    Left rear bare.jpg
    137.1 KB · Views: 36
  • Pass Park Brake Assbly.jpg
    Pass Park Brake Assbly.jpg
    194.5 KB · Views: 39
  • Drvr Pk Brk Assbly.jpg
    Drvr Pk Brk Assbly.jpg
    166.8 KB · Views: 34
  • Right Rear Shoe Assbly.jpg
    Right Rear Shoe Assbly.jpg
    131.4 KB · Views: 37
OP
OP
rpmgarage22

rpmgarage22

Full Member
Joined
May 5, 2015
Messages
162
I didn't get an opportunity to work on MACK this weekend.

However, I did score a beautiful set of black leather BMW 335 seats! Here's the preview:
 

Attachments

  • Bimmer Seat.jpg
    Bimmer Seat.jpg
    181.6 KB · Views: 45

MrT

Full Member
Joined
Dec 31, 2019
Messages
288
It looks like you are sticking with rear drum brakes? What went into that decision? What size tire will you be running?
I need to order brake parts and I am on the fence about rear disc mainly trying to keep my budget in check. I need every part for the brakes so I also hate to buy things twice.
 
OP
OP
rpmgarage22

rpmgarage22

Full Member
Joined
May 5, 2015
Messages
162
It looks like you are sticking with rear drum brakes? What went into that decision? What size tire will you be running?
I need to order brake parts and I am on the fence about rear disc mainly trying to keep my budget in check. I need every part for the brakes so I also hate to buy things twice.

Yessir. I am staying with the rear drums.

I am only running 31x10.50x15's, and I have a '76 front differential with all new Ford disc brake components.

IMO, the "original" design of disc/drum is incredibly effective, so long as the "drum" part of the equation is adjusted correctly. I think a lot of people give up on drums or view them as "old technology", when they really just don't understand the relationship and the function.

The early systems sought a "70/30" braking proportion...with the front discs doing the 70% part. This was accomplished by the master cylinder, the orifice size, the bore size, and the proportioning valve.

Disc brakes require both more pressure and more volume to be effective. Keeping the rear drums (which are more than sufficient for the "30%" job that they are reponsible for) means we only have to fight that battle on one end of the vehicle. It means that we should be able to provide more pressure and more volume with changes only in the master cylinder and/or the proportioning valve.

I use a master cylinder that maintains the "70/30" split and has a 1" piston bore. BUT...the larger reservoir (the rear on the master cylinder) also has a larger orifice. The larger chamber holds more brake fluid. The larger orifice (and the effect of gravity) allows more volume to go to the front discs without negatively affecting the rear drums.

As long as the engine makes enough vacuum (18" at warm idle), the final piece of the puzzle is the dual diaphragm brake booster.

I have measured clamping force in excess of 1100 pounds at the calipers and have seen measurments of 750 and over at the drums (other sources, as I don't know how to measure that at the drums, myself).

When you switch to four wheel disc brakes, new issues always seem to crop up (that end up costing more money). Master cylinder selection becomes even more critical, along with adding an adjustable proportioning valve for the rear brakes. Matching all the increased volume and pressure necessary can expose weaknesses in remianing components. And, engine vacuum is even more critical (and less forgiving if low). And, you are (almost) forced to change the propotion to closer to a 60/40 or even 55/45 split. (Granted, this is partly achieved by just running smaller calipers and rotors out back. But, it still has to change nonetheless.)

Now, to "flip-flop" on my own statement:

If I lived in a rainy environment; if I was running 35" tall tires (or taller); or if I was regularly towing anything larger than, say, a 4'x8' lawn mower trailer; I would run four wheel discs and just work out those issues, as I feel it would be "worth it" at that point.
 
OP
OP
rpmgarage22

rpmgarage22

Full Member
Joined
May 5, 2015
Messages
162
Thanks for your input rpm.

Also, for your reference, my complete rebuild of the rear drums included Raybestos, Wagner, and Centric parts. I also replaced all the rear lines, including the hard lines. The only thing left was the backing plates. All new from there out.

The total for all of it was under $275.00. I ended up with about 3 hours labor in it, in total...but that is because I reworked some old trailer wiring and did a little cleaning and painting while I was in there.
 
OP
OP
rpmgarage22

rpmgarage22

Full Member
Joined
May 5, 2015
Messages
162
Cold, rainy, and windy this morning. But, I did have a chance to put the new BMW 335D driver seat in place.

I believe that I will run the seats without the headrests. This puts the seatbacks at approximately the same height as the Explorer seats. These are non-heated, but have the memory feature and all power options, including the lumbar.

Even as low (short) as these 335D seat cushions are, they are still "sitting high". I was planning to run a '66 reproduction steering wheel and did not want to replace the factory column. That plan may have to be modified...

I will also be carrying the black interior theme over with changes to the dash, painting and wrapping the door panels, black armrests and cups, sun visors, and a black vinyl mat (after sufficient sound deadening and heat barrier, of course).

Remaining in budget: $24,445.59
Seat cost: 200.00
Labor (30 mins): 25.00

Total remaining in budget: $24,220.59

Thank you for checking in!

Stay tuned...
 

Attachments

  • New seat 3.jpg
    New seat 3.jpg
    123.4 KB · Views: 33
  • New seat 2.jpg
    New seat 2.jpg
    120.6 KB · Views: 34
  • New seat.jpg
    New seat.jpg
    135.2 KB · Views: 36
  • Old Seats 3.jpg
    Old Seats 3.jpg
    148.4 KB · Views: 30
  • Old Seats 2.jpg
    Old Seats 2.jpg
    167 KB · Views: 32
  • Old Seats.jpg
    Old Seats.jpg
    122.8 KB · Views: 33
OP
OP
rpmgarage22

rpmgarage22

Full Member
Joined
May 5, 2015
Messages
162
I was able to get the brakes bled and adjusted, so I got a chance to take MACK out for his first trip in years.

I thought it fitting to haul off the garbage and get a few groceries...two of the more leisurely “jobs” he’ll be responsible for nowadays.

All went fairly well, but there’s more to be done before he’s ready for daily service: adjust or replace the clutch; new drive shaft (serious vibration above 55mph); front wheel bearings; more caster; trac bar adjustment; etc., etc.

A few pics to celebrate.
 

Attachments

  • 009552DB-1C64-4136-AF1D-E9D819FE710C.jpeg
    009552DB-1C64-4136-AF1D-E9D819FE710C.jpeg
    234.3 KB · Views: 46
  • 51194B1B-84E3-476D-82EA-088EEE1BDD41.jpeg
    51194B1B-84E3-476D-82EA-088EEE1BDD41.jpeg
    246.5 KB · Views: 37
OP
OP
rpmgarage22

rpmgarage22

Full Member
Joined
May 5, 2015
Messages
162
I have been with James Duff for five years now. In that time, I have had the privilege of learning from the best in the game. And, they even pay me for it!

In the past few years, I have been fortunate to build/revive/correct/refurbish roughly 20 Early Broncos, a few Bronco II's, and a Full Size Bronco through my shop. Thank you to all of my customers, past and present.

You patronage has finally allowed me to own my own Early Bronco (I own BroncLo, too...but the motorcycle crash put him years into the future before I can build him.), MACK the Halfcab (build thread on Classic, as well).

Long story short, TODAY, I got to drive MY OWN BRONCO to work for the first time!

This is a big day for me (personally) and for my shop (professionally). MACK has a way to go before "daily driver" will be accurate. But, I am proud to say that the 23 mile (one way) trip was without issue...EXCEPT:

While waiting to turn left at the second to last red light before work, an IDIOT in a champagne NISSAN Pathfinder (or maybe XTerra) just had to "beat the light" for a right turn. His speed was such that he skidded across three lanes, went up on two wheels, and cam within inches of broadsiding me right in the driver door.

Thankfully, it didn't result in a collision.

The pictures are of MACK, tucked (hopefully) safely away in his parking space at James Duff Inc.

Thank you, again, to everyone who helped make this day happen!
 

Attachments

  • First Day at Work 2.jpg
    First Day at Work 2.jpg
    245.5 KB · Views: 24
  • First Day at Work.jpg
    First Day at Work.jpg
    276.3 KB · Views: 30
OP
OP
rpmgarage22

rpmgarage22

Full Member
Joined
May 5, 2015
Messages
162
The Work:

This weekend I was able to get MACK on the road for the first time in many years. Even drove him to work yesterday. Felt great! Thank you to all the well wishers and great comments from yesterday. That not only helps keep the "drive" going for my own rigs, but keeps the fire burning strong for my customer builds.

I was also able to remove the tube bumpers and install a pair of stock reproduction ("plain") bumpers from Dennis Carpenter www.dennis-carpenter.com ;a Class II receiver hitch from James Duff https://www.dufftuff.com/Receiver_Hitch_1966_77_Bronco_p/4905b.htm ;and stainless steel carriage bolts to mount the bumpers.

First, I removed the tube bumpers. Once removed, I took a small wire brush to knock off the crud and flakes of surface rust. Then, I used some mineral spirits on a wet/dry sanding sponge and scuffed the surfaces. Next, I used some "2 in 1" Satin Black paint and put a couple of light coats on everything that I could reach without having to tape anything off.

Once all that was finished, and the paint had a chance to flash enough to work around, I installed the bumpers and hitch. This work is straight forward, so I won't go into detail.

On a side note, to install the receiver hitch, I did have to "open" the frame horns a bit on both sides. This is a common issue and has nothing to do with the build of the Duff's hitch.

A few things that contribute are:
1) Bumper replaced with one that had shorter (height) mounting tabs than stock. Bolting it in "squeezes" the frame horns.
2) Vehicle had a hitch and someone overloaded it (causing the horns to sag
3) Someone bottomed out on a trail or backed into something below the center line of the bumper (causing the horns to lift)

I used a 3# sledge hammer and a 12" long piece of 2x2 square tube to coax it into alignment. Then, I completed the install by sliding the hitch into the frame horns; the bumper over the frame horns; and used a tapered rod as an alignment tool. Bolted it all together with SS carriage bolts, flat washer, lock washer, and hex nut. Torqued to damtight specs with 1/2" drive rachet.

My plan is to pull that back apart (in the near future) and have the bumpers powder coated in a black satin, "textured" finish (kind of a "hammertone" finish).

I also installed a pair of old fender flares on the rear. I haven't decided whether to paint match them to the gray, or do them in the same black satin textured finish as the bumpers.

I really don't want to run the front flares. But, after looking everything over, I think it needs them for balance and to help get the visual appearance that I am going for. But...I can decide that later.

Remaining in Budget: $24220.59
Stock Repro Bumpers ($99.95 ea x 2) 190.00
SS Carriage bolts/HRDWR 12.60
Receiver Hitch (bought 10 months ago) 130.00
Labor (2 hours) 100.00

Remaining in Budget after 02-15-2020: $23787.99

More to come...

Thanks for tuning in!
 

Attachments

  • MACK First Day of Work.jpg
    MACK First Day of Work.jpg
    276.3 KB · Views: 42
  • Rear and Hitch Installed 2 02-15-2020.jpg
    Rear and Hitch Installed 2 02-15-2020.jpg
    160.1 KB · Views: 41
  • Hitch Mock-up 02-15-2020.jpg
    Hitch Mock-up 02-15-2020.jpg
    160.4 KB · Views: 40
  • Hitch Unboxed 2.jpg
    Hitch Unboxed 2.jpg
    182.9 KB · Views: 35
  • Front Stock Bumper 02-15-2020.jpg
    Front Stock Bumper 02-15-2020.jpg
    145.8 KB · Views: 35
  • Front View Bumper off 02-16-2020.jpg
    Front View Bumper off 02-16-2020.jpg
    198.7 KB · Views: 33
  • Tube Rear 02-15-2020.jpg
    Tube Rear 02-15-2020.jpg
    168.5 KB · Views: 32
  • Front Tube Bumper 02-16-2020.jpg
    Front Tube Bumper 02-16-2020.jpg
    187.1 KB · Views: 31

sprdv1

Contributor
REBEL
Joined
Mar 8, 2007
Messages
81,734
Budget all planned out and everything.. Nice :)

Keep plugging away
 
OP
OP
rpmgarage22

rpmgarage22

Full Member
Joined
May 5, 2015
Messages
162
The Work:

With both work schedules remaining loaded, I get very little time to work on MACK. I was getting really tired of the worn front springs and even more worn front shocks. The only time I had to work on it started at 11:30p.m. But, when you are tired of the ride, you are tired of the ride.

I pulled everything but the c-bushings and caps (hoping for James Duff T-Rex Arms soon, so just leaving them alone for now). Springs, shocks, retainers, trac bar bushings, etc., all came out.

As much as some Bronco things can frustrate me (like finding a body mount "crushed" into place with a homemade spacer above it to keep it "level" and taking three hours to get it out), I always find it a relief that (usually) a bit of PB Blaster and things still seem to willingly come apart after all these years. In this instance, everything came apart, no bolts were snapped, and no heads or threads stripped. Pretty good, all considered.

Anyway, once everything was out of the way, I did (admittedly in a rush) take a wire wheel and wire brush, along with some lacquer thinner, and then glass cleaner, and cleaned the inner fender area. A quick few coats of satin black, and it was time to install.

I installed a set of James Duff "stock height" progressive coil springs, new James Duff 70/30 shocks (scuffed...purchased from the 2nds shelf), and all the associated bushings. I retained the original lower coil retainers, but used new upper retainer tabs from James Duff.

It was all that I could do not to go for a test drive at 4am... But, I abstained.

The difference, as you might expect, is night and day. Of course, this did nothing to improve the caster, but everything else about the performance, feel, and ride quality (of the front, at least) improved several fold.

Today's (or...tonight's) Expenses:
Remaining in Budget $23787.99
James Duff Stock Ht Progressive Coils 150.00
James Duff 70/30 Shocks (2nds) 40.00
Trac Bar Bushings 10.50
Upper Retainer Tabs 12.95
Labor Hours (4) 200.00

Remaining Budget after this Work: $23,374.54

Thank you for tuning in!
 

Attachments

  • Stance update 03-18-2020.jpg
    Stance update 03-18-2020.jpg
    233.9 KB · Views: 31
  • New Front Susp-Parking Lot Shot 03-19-2020.jpg
    New Front Susp-Parking Lot Shot 03-19-2020.jpg
    155.9 KB · Views: 26
  • Front view 03-18-2020.jpg
    Front view 03-18-2020.jpg
    116.9 KB · Views: 30
  • Pass Ft Susp After 03-16-2020.jpg
    Pass Ft Susp After 03-16-2020.jpg
    177.1 KB · Views: 31
  • PAss Frt During 03-16-2020.jpg
    PAss Frt During 03-16-2020.jpg
    153.4 KB · Views: 27
  • Front Suspension Update 03-16-2020.jpg
    Front Suspension Update 03-16-2020.jpg
    170.5 KB · Views: 25
  • Front Suspension Update 1 03-15-2020.jpg
    Front Suspension Update 1 03-15-2020.jpg
    145.2 KB · Views: 24
  • Frt Susp Drv Side 03-15-2020.jpg
    Frt Susp Drv Side 03-15-2020.jpg
    147.1 KB · Views: 31
OP
OP
rpmgarage22

rpmgarage22

Full Member
Joined
May 5, 2015
Messages
162
And...on a quick side note:

For those of you who feel that "a little extra weight in the rear 'should not cause' springs to sag"... Take a look at these pictures.

Keep in mind, this Bronco has:
1) No hard top
2) No cage
3) No rear seat or tool box
4) Stock rear bumper
5) No spare tire

The pictures are with a 500' spool of #2 solid copper wire in the left rear corner of the bed. Roughly 100#, according to the National Wire Chart.

Unlike the coil springs, the leafs in this Bronco are still in great condition.
Granted, when I moved the spool to the center of the bed, it barely budged. But, this is a reasonable demonstration of the difference that additional weight, especially concentrated weight, can make.

So, when you call in to order your lift, the questions about your "intended final installed items" are very important.
 

Attachments

  • Lean created by cable spool 03-22-2020.jpg
    Lean created by cable spool 03-22-2020.jpg
    195.1 KB · Views: 40
  • Cable Spool in Bed 03-22-2020.jpg
    Cable Spool in Bed 03-22-2020.jpg
    194.3 KB · Views: 38
  • Leaf Spring Squat from load 03-22-2020.jpg
    Leaf Spring Squat from load 03-22-2020.jpg
    212.6 KB · Views: 33
Top