rpmgarage22
Full Member
- Joined
- May 5, 2015
- Messages
- 162
The Work:
As the pics will show, MACK had some brake issues. The passenger side wheel cylinder had been leaking...apparently for quite some time. Eventually, the cylinder fully expanded and "froze", which locked the shoes against the drum.
To remove the passenger drum, I did the following:
1) Using two smaller slotted screwdrivers, I reached into the adjuster window and forced the adjuster to relieve tension by rolling it in the opposite direction. In other words, I "unadjusted" the passenger drum.
2) I struck the outer radius of the drum all the way around with a deadblow hammer. This is to "mechanically" break up the marriage of the shoe material to the inside of the drum.
3) Tried to remove...didn't budge.
4) I heated the drum surface around the wheel styds with MAPP gas, leaving the original lug nuts within a few threads of actually touching the drum. This helps to force the heat between the stud and the holes in the drum.
5) Tried to remove...didn't budge.
6) MOVE TO NEXT LARGEST HAMMER!
7) I used a radiused (read: too lazy to keep it sharp so I threw it in the back of the tool box) cold chisel and a 32oz ball peen hammer. I lined the cold chisel up on the back side of the drum lip and hit it with medium blows with the ball peen.
8) Moving 90º at a time, it began to "break loose" on the third position.
9) From there, it was back to the dead blow and just keep pecking away until it came off.
10) Pics show just how much brake fluid and crud were there. And these were taken AFTER the first "cleaning" with brake cleaner.
11) From that point, it was just R&R work. I took time to wire brush and degrease everything, then painted the inside of the backing plates with satin black. Also, painted the new drums satin black. (NOTE: In the new drum pic, the silver that you see is anti-sieze. I coat the studs, and also dab a little on the spacer to give the aluminum and steel a small barrier. Then, I tighten the lugs down to about 50ft lbs, and remove the spacer. This lets me see a pattern on the new drum to help verify that it is meeting flush with the spacer. As you can see in the pic, it looks pretty good. Ran out of anti-sieze at this point...)
12) Then, reassembled.
I did not have enough time to actually bleed the brakes or go any further, as it was dark and cold by that time.
I am running new lines on the diff and to the cyliinders anyway. Hope to hit that this weekend.
This week's hit to the budget:
Brake Components- 191.96
Drums, Shoes, Cylinders, Hardware, Park Brake Rebuild kit. All parts
Raybestos and Wagner.
Labor- 2.5 hours 125.00
Total today- $316.96
Remaining in budget- $24762.55
Minus Today- 316.96
Total remaining in budget- $24,445.59
Next post will be some "Unboxing New Parts" pics, as I received a lot of parts for the next few stages in the last week or so.
Thank you for tuning in!
As the pics will show, MACK had some brake issues. The passenger side wheel cylinder had been leaking...apparently for quite some time. Eventually, the cylinder fully expanded and "froze", which locked the shoes against the drum.
To remove the passenger drum, I did the following:
1) Using two smaller slotted screwdrivers, I reached into the adjuster window and forced the adjuster to relieve tension by rolling it in the opposite direction. In other words, I "unadjusted" the passenger drum.
2) I struck the outer radius of the drum all the way around with a deadblow hammer. This is to "mechanically" break up the marriage of the shoe material to the inside of the drum.
3) Tried to remove...didn't budge.
4) I heated the drum surface around the wheel styds with MAPP gas, leaving the original lug nuts within a few threads of actually touching the drum. This helps to force the heat between the stud and the holes in the drum.
5) Tried to remove...didn't budge.
6) MOVE TO NEXT LARGEST HAMMER!
7) I used a radiused (read: too lazy to keep it sharp so I threw it in the back of the tool box) cold chisel and a 32oz ball peen hammer. I lined the cold chisel up on the back side of the drum lip and hit it with medium blows with the ball peen.
8) Moving 90º at a time, it began to "break loose" on the third position.
9) From there, it was back to the dead blow and just keep pecking away until it came off.
10) Pics show just how much brake fluid and crud were there. And these were taken AFTER the first "cleaning" with brake cleaner.
11) From that point, it was just R&R work. I took time to wire brush and degrease everything, then painted the inside of the backing plates with satin black. Also, painted the new drums satin black. (NOTE: In the new drum pic, the silver that you see is anti-sieze. I coat the studs, and also dab a little on the spacer to give the aluminum and steel a small barrier. Then, I tighten the lugs down to about 50ft lbs, and remove the spacer. This lets me see a pattern on the new drum to help verify that it is meeting flush with the spacer. As you can see in the pic, it looks pretty good. Ran out of anti-sieze at this point...)
12) Then, reassembled.
I did not have enough time to actually bleed the brakes or go any further, as it was dark and cold by that time.
I am running new lines on the diff and to the cyliinders anyway. Hope to hit that this weekend.
This week's hit to the budget:
Brake Components- 191.96
Drums, Shoes, Cylinders, Hardware, Park Brake Rebuild kit. All parts
Raybestos and Wagner.
Labor- 2.5 hours 125.00
Total today- $316.96
Remaining in budget- $24762.55
Minus Today- 316.96
Total remaining in budget- $24,445.59
Next post will be some "Unboxing New Parts" pics, as I received a lot of parts for the next few stages in the last week or so.
Thank you for tuning in!
Attachments
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Driver Side First pic.jpg147.9 KB · Views: 38
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New Drvr Drum 2.jpg250.9 KB · Views: 45
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New Drvr Drum.jpg154.7 KB · Views: 47
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New Shoes.jpg158.3 KB · Views: 41
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Left rear bare.jpg137.1 KB · Views: 36
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Pass Park Brake Assbly.jpg194.5 KB · Views: 39
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Drvr Pk Brk Assbly.jpg166.8 KB · Views: 34
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Right Rear Shoe Assbly.jpg131.4 KB · Views: 37