Bronco Hut    

   Ford Bronco Parts - Classic Vintage Early Bronco Parts   Toms Bronco Parts   BC Broncos
Community
 Message Forum
 Photo Gallery
 Event Calendar
 Book Reviews
 Bronco Wallpaper
 Bronco FAQ
 Link Back to CB!
 600+ Bronco Links!
 
Search all Bronco Links
Buy / Sell
 Classifieds / Want Ads
 Vendor Forum
James Duff
Rust Bullet
Sexton Offroad
Bronco Tech
Recent Tech Articles
 •Holley Carb Tips
 •Aussie Locker
 •C6 203 205 Doubler
 •4 Link
 •Clutch Replacement
 •Early Turn Signals
 •C4 Improvements
 •Threaded Dipstick
 •NV3550 5 spd
     More Tech...
Ford Bronco Parts - Classic Vintage Early Bronco Parts

Welcome to the ClassicBroncos.com Forums.

You are currently viewing our boards as a GUEST which limits your access to viewing only. To take advantage of all the forum features please take a moment to register. Registration is fast, simple and absolutely free so please, join our community today!

If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact contact the admin. If you've lost your password click here.

Go Back   ClassicBroncos.com Forums > 66-77 Ford Bronco > Bronco Tech

Reply
 
Thread Tools
Old 11/10/19, 10:20 AM   #1
1strodeo
Contributor
U15 Apprentice
 
1strodeo's Avatar
 
Fix,Drive,Modify,Repeat

Centerville, OH
Joined: Sep 16
Posts: 3,287
Garage
4x4x2 Snafu

Hello All, I have a steering box from a 78 F150 4x4 and I swapped in the worm gear assembly from a 2wd box per the WCB Rockcrawler instructions. Just did a straight swap no seals were changed. After the swap the input shaft will not turn.

Worm assy was moving freely before sector shaft install. I noticed while the sector shaft was out the adjusting screw was loose, which Iím guessing it should be. Sector shaft installed easily until the last 1/4-3/8Ē so I used the 2 bolts to get it in the rest of the way. I turned each bolt about a 1/4 turn at a time and went in easily except maybe the last complete turn of each bolt required more torque. I have NOT torqued the sector shaft bolts to spec, just snug.

I then popped the adjusting nut loose without much trouble, but the adjusting screw itself was hard to get loose. I had to use a large flathead and channel locks on the handle just to get it loose.

Should I pull the sector shaft back out an inch or so and back out the adjusting screw? Really didnít want to mess with that screw but itís probably difficult to avoid with this swap. Any tips appreciated thanks.

Tag in pics is from worm gear donor box
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 20BBF5B0-7026-4143-ADE0-BE63347A8D23.jpg (93.7 KB, 57 views)
File Type: jpg A8B83FB4-3121-41E5-8F4A-0A65786CCD47.jpg (92.7 KB, 51 views)
File Type: jpg BFB9DFD3-6750-49D3-B5BD-E51C3BED82BB.jpg (65.1 KB, 51 views)

1966 LUBR, 351/4spd swap in progress, 2.5" SL, 1" BL, 31's Tonko

1972 U15, 302 3spd, 3.5" SL, 1" BL, 35's Frankie
1strodeo is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 11/10/19, 04:05 PM   #2
DirtDonk
Contributor
Bronco Guru
 
DirtDonk's Avatar
 
San Jose, CA
Joined: Nov 03
Posts: 35,620
Pretty sure you can't NOT mess with the screw. It's how you set the preload on any box and when you're changing parts I'm pretty sure you're not often going to run into it keeping it's adjustment.

As you noted by not being able to push it in all the way, it's bound up. Steve83 has some Ford assembly and adjustment instructions on his SuperMotors pages I believe, and maybe PM Viper who's worked on a lot of boxes in recent years.
Never done one myself, so can't quote chapter and verse for you.

Good luck.

Paul

'71 Wagon, 3.5" WH, F150 disc brakes and steering, 4.11 33x11.50 Thornbirds, Kayline soft top, Hanson bumpers. "Built, not bought"

'68 LUBR, 2.5 + 1 WH, 31x10.50, 4.56, Explorer and 4R70w by EFI Guy, WH disc brakes, Hanson front bumper, Warn winch. "Bought, not built"

www.wildhorses4x4.com
DirtDonk is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11/11/19, 06:06 AM   #3
Teal68
Contributor
Bronco Guru
 
Teal68's Avatar
 
Inlet Beach, FL
Joined: Mar 13
eBay: cloud9exp
Posts: 2,265
I have only done 2 of them, and I had to loosen the adjusting screw to assemble and then adjust.

Mine: 68 5.0 NV3550 2.5" SL 1" BL PB PS Axle back 1" locker 33's
Hers: 68 5.0 C4 PS PB 30/9.5/15's
In progress: original 77
Teal68 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11/11/19, 08:38 AM   #4
1strodeo
Contributor
U15 Apprentice
 
1strodeo's Avatar
 
Fix,Drive,Modify,Repeat

Centerville, OH
Joined: Sep 16
Posts: 3,287
Garage
Thanks guys, that's what I ended up doing yesterday, I backed out the sector shaft until the input shaft turned freely, then adjusted the screw as I reinstalled the shaft, simple!

Yes I've visited Steve83's page a couple times, as well as my manuals, looks like i need to acquire an in-lb torque wrench. I've also read that people have adjusted the screw until there's just a little tension when passing center. This is the main reason for my post: I know that the steering box and adjustment screw in particular are nothing to play around with, so I want to make sure I'm doing it right. thanks again

1966 LUBR, 351/4spd swap in progress, 2.5" SL, 1" BL, 31's Tonko

1972 U15, 302 3spd, 3.5" SL, 1" BL, 35's Frankie
1strodeo is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 11/11/19, 10:41 AM   #5
Teal68
Contributor
Bronco Guru
 
Teal68's Avatar
 
Inlet Beach, FL
Joined: Mar 13
eBay: cloud9exp
Posts: 2,265
I've always adjusted them until it feels notchy at the center and then back it off until the notchy feeling goes away. This is with the front tires/wheels off the ground. I don't know if that's a good idea or not, but it has worked for me for many years. No failed boxes to date. Fingers crossed it stays that way.

That said, aside from the torque wrench method I'd love to hear how others have done it.

Mine: 68 5.0 NV3550 2.5" SL 1" BL PB PS Axle back 1" locker 33's
Hers: 68 5.0 C4 PS PB 30/9.5/15's
In progress: original 77
Teal68 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11/11/19, 12:21 PM   #6
1strodeo
Contributor
U15 Apprentice
 
1strodeo's Avatar
 
Fix,Drive,Modify,Repeat

Centerville, OH
Joined: Sep 16
Posts: 3,287
Garage
My understanding is that you want SOME resistance at center, otherwise you will have wandering when going straight down the road.

1966 LUBR, 351/4spd swap in progress, 2.5" SL, 1" BL, 31's Tonko

1972 U15, 302 3spd, 3.5" SL, 1" BL, 35's Frankie
1strodeo is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 11/12/19, 03:57 AM   #7
ransil
Contributor
Bronco Guru
 
ransil's Avatar
 
western Pa.
Joined: Sep 03
Posts: 7,636
Garage
here is a link to a ford manual

http://wcb4x4.com/tech/rcshopman1.pdf
ransil is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11/12/19, 03:59 AM   #8
ransil
Contributor
Bronco Guru
 
ransil's Avatar
 
western Pa.
Joined: Sep 03
Posts: 7,636
Garage
snip from manual

Adjustment In Vehicle
Adjust total over center position load,
to eliminate excessive lash between the
sector and rack teeth as follows. This is
the only adjustment required.
1. Disconnect the Pitman arm from the
sector shaft using Tool 64P-3590-F.
2. Disconnect the fluid return line at
the reservoir and cap the reservoir
return line pipe.
3. Place the end of the return line in a
clean container and turn the steering
wheel from left to right several times
to discharge the fluid from the gear.
4. Turn the steering wheel to 45 degrees
from the left stop.
5. Attach an in-lb. torque wrench to the
steering wheel nut and determine the
torque required to rotate the shaft
FIG. 1 Ford Integral Power Steering Gear F-100—F-350 and Bronco
FIG. 2 Adjusting Mesh Load

slowly approximately one-eight turn
from the 45 degree position.
6. Turn the steering gear back to center
and determine the torque required
to rotate the shaft back and forth
across the center position. Loosen
the adjuster nut and turn the adjuster
screw (Fig. 2) until the reading is 11
to 12 in-lb greater than the torque at
45 degrees from the stop. Hold the
screw in place, and tighten the lock
nut.
7. Re-check torque readings and
replace the Pitman arm and steering
wheel hub cover.
8. Connect the fluid return line to the
reservoir and fill the reservoir to
specification (Part 13-01). Adjust belt
tension, if necessary. Do not pry
against the reservoir to obtain
proper belt load. Pressure may
deform the reservoir and cause it
to leak.
ransil is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11/12/19, 06:58 AM   #9
1strodeo
Contributor
U15 Apprentice
 
1strodeo's Avatar
 
Fix,Drive,Modify,Repeat

Centerville, OH
Joined: Sep 16
Posts: 3,287
Garage
thanks brother, sounds a lot easier than Chiton's steps 4 & 5;

4. Turn the gear 1/2 turn off center (either direction). Using a 24 in. lb torque wrench on the steering wheel nut, determine the torque required to rotate the shaft slowly through a 20 degree arc.

5. Turn the gear back to center and repeating the method of reading torque as in Step 4, above; loosen the adjuster lock nut, turn the screw with a 7/32 in. allen wrench until the reading is equal to 6 in. lbs in excess of the figure determined in Step 4 and retighten the locknut while holding the screw in place.

Since the fluid is discharged before adjustment I'm thinking I can do this the same way on the bench, yes?

1966 LUBR, 351/4spd swap in progress, 2.5" SL, 1" BL, 31's Tonko

1972 U15, 302 3spd, 3.5" SL, 1" BL, 35's Frankie
1strodeo is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 11/12/19, 07:06 AM   #10
bronkenn
Contributor
Bronco Guru
 
I believe you, thousands wouldn't

Southeast Ohio
Joined: Apr 17
Posts: 1,897
Hey Jeff, I did mine on the bench with good results. I turned in the screw in while turning the steering shaft back and forth until I had a small amount of resistance at the center point. The steering on the Bronco works very well.
bronkenn is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

  ClassicBroncos.com Forums > 66-77 Ford Bronco > Bronco Tech

Thread Tools

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 02:55 PM.


Bulletin Board Software by: vBulletin
Copyright ©2000 - 2019, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Garage Plus vBulletin Plugins by Drive Thru Online, Inc.


This site created, owned and maintained by Jon Hanna
Copyright © 1996-2019 All rights reserved. Privacy Statement
ClassicBroncos.com is not affiliated with Ford Motor Company

Page generated in 0.38533 seconds with 65 queries