Mild 351 or 408 Stroker

nvrstuk said:

For some reason I seem to grenade parts-or at least have a reputation for doing so. lol However, with that being said I broke more parts over the years without strokers than with them.

Here's what I believe makes the difference. I drive mine. I mean- I drive it a lot. With that comes wear and tear. That alone isnt the main factor tho.

Tall tires, traction, 100% locked frt/rear ends, and GEARING. Gearing multiples torque and makes a huge difference for transferring that torque to the ground during low speed wheeling. Add gearing to all of the above and things twist off and they do so at low speeds, idling on high traction surfaces. I have broken more stuff going slow idling up a rock wall then snobashing or running sand dunes and I hate mud so I never "do mud".

That being said, 1310 joints are what I used for decades and never broke one until a 6K rpm shift into 2nd on blacktop. Twisted the 35 spline ARB locker in half but the 1310 CV held up. I run 1350's now but I have over 700 ft lbs of torque and I went to 2 different automatics
as the TC helps eliminate shock load at low rpms
Mud, sand and snow are extremely forgiving while high traction surfaces are not

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nvrstuk said:

Update for parts breakage. Your frt axle will be your weak point.

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nvrstuk said:

If you wheel a D44 it needs upgrading anyway. Not trying to spend your money but D44's are pretty good till 35" tires, lockers (like selectables) & gears come into play.

When wheeling your rig either moves or it doesn't. When trying to move in extremely tough terrain torque generated thru engine/trans/doubler/tcase/frt/rear end multiples overcoming the forces needed until your rig moves, or it wont move or something grenades.

So 300ftlbs of engine torque or 700ftlbs are trying to do the dame thing when wheeling.

Frt joints are marginal when loaded going straight (not even turned) to overcome the resistance your vehicle needs to move when wheeling.

So depending on the type of wheeling you do will determine the potential upgrades wanted or needed to help prevent breakage.

Excellent joints and axles (because when joints break they almost always destroy the ears on the axle) are a must and extra engine torque doesn't make any difference other than you have a more torque available to help you become unstuck.

Hopping and bouncing when wheeling is the best way to kill parts! Shock loading kills parts

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nvrstuk said:

Yeah, so many great builders/designers on this site have all gone thru the same thing. What holds up and what doesn't? lol

Output shaft really is the D20's weakest part IMO. The Intermediate shaft gear is next. Torque and traction is what tears them up.

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nvrstuk said:

So you bought that thru the mass buy I out together from Chuck 20 yrs ago?

That's what I ran

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nvrstuk said:

Update for parts breakage. Your frt axle ujoints will be your weak point, but they are already are - so no change there

Just like any D44, dont back up with the wheels turned in locked 4 wheel. I have posted a chart showing the strength loss of ujoints when "turned" in a frt axle situation. Amazing the lack of strength when turned.

After I twisted a 1/2 dozen frt axles I upgraded to the full size axles and joints from FS D44's, then went to upgraded alloy joints and axles and now run D60 RCV's.

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markw said:

What heads did you use for your Clevor?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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nvrstuk said:

DR650- check RCV frt axle replacement on WH site. They sell them, I'm sure Tom's does too.

Guaranteed for life, you can turn sharp backing up a hill with excellent traction and not worry.

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nvrstuk said:

DR650- check RCV frt axle replacement on WH site. They sell them, I'm sure Tom's does too.

Guaranteed for life, you can turn sharp backing up a hill with excellent traction and not worry.

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