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Mountaineer/Explorer 5.0 Swap

1buckeyefan1

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Sr. Member
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Sep 21, 2017
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629
I know.. yet another 5.0/4R70W swap. I've read a good bit of the threads and gleaned enough information to make me comfortable giving it a shot.

This will be me first swap of any motor/trans. I originally intended this for be a 'help me' thread, but after seeing many of the same questions, I figured I'd turn this into more of a 5.0/4R70W for newbies thread. Ie, hopefully I can generate a good part list and provide pictures as I go through it, to hopefully help others also take the leap..

Here is what I am working with:
  • 1974 EB w/ stock 302.. Came with a Flaming River column, Painless Harness, 2" body lift, etc, so I think i already have parts of what i need. I plan to pull the body to strip the frame this summer and install the new powertrain while the body is off.
  • 2001 Mercury Mountaineer. 5.0L, with AWD (I believe 4R70W) trans
  • 122k miles, 2 owners, was salvaged by insurance due to it being backed into something and damaged rear hatch
  • I have started the Mountaineer up and driven it around the block. No white smoke, shifts smooth, what i remember these vehicles driving like


What I should keep?
  • Everything physically attached to the engine & trans
  • Air intake plumbing, with MAF sensor.
  • OBD2 port and inertia switch (with pigtail) from inside the cab.
  • Engine harness, transmission harness, and firewall harness
  • Throttle cable & pedal
  • Fuel line plumbing (likely need new hose since 18yrs old)
  • Fuel pump assembly.
  • Power steering pressure hose.
  • Cruise control module.
  • Fuel pump flange from gas tank

What should I strip before I scrap it? I'm going to post it on some of the local for sale sites and maybe toss some of the light/valuable stuff up on ebay.

What are my next steps:
  • Pull engine & trans, start cleaning/blasting
  • Replace all fluids, plugs, wires, timing chain
  • Have EFIGuy reprogram ECU and possible rework harness (need to watch his video again to determine if I can tackle it.

What I need to purchase:
  • AA adapter for mating 4r70W to Dana D20. Most popular option is the ZF adapter: Advance Adapters Transfer Case Adapters 50-4303 cut .8" to 1.5" off the tail shaft to make it
  • You will need Timken 471950 to keep the ATF from flowing out and filling the D20
  • 23gal fuel tank for EFI. Possibly made to fit for Mountaineer Fuel in-tank fuel pump. I ended up using an older NWMP w/ a Tanks Inc PA-2 pump assembly
  • Headers for the GT40P heads (Bronco Hut)
  • 4R70W crossmember (BCBroncos) - note: depending on the AA adapter, dictates which crossmember you need to use.
  • Upgraded gauge w/ added Voltmeter & possibly check engine light?
  • Spare ECU to have EFIGuy program (Ebay, PickNPull)
  • Radiator. Explorer 5.0 doesn't work, you can use a stock EB radiator, but need new hoses:
  • Lower Radiator Hose: 2002 7.3 diesel F350 lower #22690 work with a little trimming
  • Lower Radiator Hose: You cut the factory lower hose into 3 pieces. In a nutshell, use either end and throw away the middle.
  • Upper Radiator Hose: 1998 4.6 Crown Victoria upper hose #22392
  • Upper Radiator Hose: Continental factory upper hose from Summit racing (CEL-60710). The other hoses from Gates, Dayco, and whoever else's are different. You take the hose, put it on backwards, and then you have to put a splice in it so you can rotate it. There is trimming done on both ends to the rad and thermostat housing.
  • Fan shroud? WildHorses Aluminum Shroud (looks great, $$)
  • Air intake: modify factory box, or use Mass Air Flow Sensor Intake Adapter Plate For 94-95 Mustang 2dr 5.0 V8 (ebay)
  • Need shift adapter linkage for aftermarket column: Lokar ACA-1808 Adjustable Column Shift Linkage Kit
  • Oil Filter Adapter to remove oil cooler: f1az.6890.b
  • ECM box (pull from 2003 escape, pickNpull)
  • Twin Sticks for transfer case. Note: you will have to modify the Advance Adapter arm that the twin sticks mount to. You will want the middle clocking position, not the 3rd that this arm is set up for.
  • Power Steering adapter fitting:https://leepowersteering.com/produc...-with-seat-ford-pumps-racks-pinions-16mm-to-6
  • Heater control valve and hoses. Murray Heater control valve #74628. This valve flows opposite to the Bronco valve, but correct for the Explorer flow. Gates hose #19070 is cut to fit and you use this one hose to do heater
  • Napa #NBH36079 - 60mm pulley (if you have front crossmember clearance issues)
  • Gates Serp belt #K060825 for AC delete

Parts to replace:
  • Motorcraft KM-1935 water pump bypass line
  • Motorcraft KH581 - water pump to heater line
  • Melling M68 Oil Pump
  • Motorcraft RT1139 Thermostat
  • Motorcraft RG605 Engine Coolant Thermostat Housing Gasket
  • Motorcraft Wr-6034 - plug wire set (maybe too long?)
  • Motorcraft dg-530 Ignition coil (2)
  • Motorcraft SW1547B Oil Pressure Switch
  • Motorcraft SW232 Water Temp Sender
  • Motorcraft E7TZ-6268-A Timing Chain - note this varies by year. it took me 2x to find the correct one
  • Motorcraft PW-343 Water Pump

I'm planning for this to be a neighborhood cruiser, family ice cream getter.. something I can enjoy driving, and possibly my wife. the original 302 was in good running condition but I would really like EFI on a budget. The Mountaineer was reasonable so I feel i'm off to a good start.

Sorry for all of the open ended questions/ramble. I've tried to compile as much data from all of the threads.. lots of good lessons learned.. exactly why i love this forum. I'm hoping some of the veteran 5.0 swappers can chime in with what they might have done differently, or what a newbie should watch out for?
 
Last edited:

fordguy

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Bronco Guru
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Jan 23, 2005
Messages
5,497
rear disk and rear end are good parts to keep. the explorer disc will fit one of the early bronco housings. street rodders are using the 8.8 housing. if Garry is going to build your harness go ahead and get the harness as soon as possible and get in the queue.
 

wsager

Full Member
Joined
Dec 3, 2014
Messages
333
Might want to keep the throttle cable and explorer accelerator pedal, or I think that you can buy what you need (BCBroncos?).

Can use the original radiator or the Scott Drake but will have to use a crossover pipe (also available from the vendors). Explorer radiator is too wide. Some people use the previous generation Explorer radiator as a cheap option.

If you are going to cut the tail shaft, you use the AA ZF adapter, which saves you a little money and you don't have to pull the whole transmission apart.

Jeep guys like the 8.8 rear ends too.
 

BroncoChicken

Sr. Member
Joined
Mar 29, 2015
Messages
356
You can use a stock radiator (or replacement with stock inlet/outlet), you just need different hoses. 1998 4.6 Crown Victoria upper hose #22392 and 2002 7.3 diesel F350 lower #22690 work with a little trimming. The fan will be out of the shroud, but you can swap on a fan clutch from a 2008 Trailblazer 5.3L to move the fan closer to the radiator and back into the shroud. Picture of the fan clutch difference is attached.
 

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1buckeyefan1

1buckeyefan1

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If you are going to cut the tail shaft, you use the AA ZF adapter, which saves you a little money and you don't have to pull the whole transmission apart.

I believe this is the adapter I need?

AA ZF Adapter

thanks for the tips so far.. love the feedback!
 
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1buckeyefan1

1buckeyefan1

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Sep 21, 2017
Messages
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You can use a stock radiator (or replacement with stock inlet/outlet), you just need different hoses. 1998 4.6 Crown Victoria upper hose #22392 and 2002 7.3 diesel F350 lower #22690 work with a little trimming. The fan will be out of the shroud, but you can swap on a fan clutch from a 2008 Trailblazer 5.3L to move the fan closer to the radiator and back into the shroud. Picture of the fan clutch difference is attached.

This is precisely why i dig this forum! Love the experience.. It like visiting a car show and chatting with folks any day of the week.
 

wsager

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Joined
Dec 3, 2014
Messages
333
I believe this is the adapter I need?

AA ZF Adapter

thanks for the tips so far.. love the feedback!

That's the one. You will need Timken 471950 to keep the ATF from flowing out and filling the D20. You can order it if your kit doesn't come with it.

Also, I've read that some only need to cut 0.8" off the tail shaft. Might want to measure to be sure.
 

68Broncoz

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Dec 12, 2017
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Thanks for starting this thread!, not to highjack the thread however I have a question on the front cross member. Does it need to be notched to clear the serpentine?
 

Jaarchers

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Jul 19, 2018
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Loc.
Livermore
subscribed... i am also wanting to do this same swap, looking forward to all the info!
 

onpier55

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Roseville Ca
I did not notch my cross member. I used this smaller idler pulley.
 

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904Bronco

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I have done 3 Explorer conversions and have not had to notch the frame.

But I did an Mustang EFI conversion with Explorer dress and had to go to the smaller pulley as noted above...
 
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1buckeyefan1

1buckeyefan1

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Regarding fuel tanks... Has anyone been successful at modifying the dual tank setup to work with the 5.0 EFI system? I purchased a new rear tank, have a good aux tank and cut the front aux hole in my qtr panel already. Should I patch it and buy a 23gal aero tank? Or can I make my dual system work well enough for my setup?

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk
 

sykanr0ng

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Aug 11, 2014
Messages
5,363
Regarding fuel tanks... Has anyone been successful at modifying the dual tank setup to work with the 5.0 EFI system? I purchased a new rear tank, have a good aux tank and cut the front aux hole in my qtr panel already. Should I patch it and buy a 23gal aero tank? Or can I make my dual system work well enough for my setup?

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk

Yes, it has been done.
You will need an electrically switched fuel valve rated for the higher pressure of the EFI, which can be controlled by the same switch as the gauge.
 

67EB_in_619

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San Diego
Yes, it has been done.
You will need an electrically switched fuel valve rated for the higher pressure of the EFI, which can be controlled by the same switch as the gauge.

Another common solution is to plumb the aux into the main and setup a simple low pressure (carb) fuel pump on a switch to transfer the fuel from AUX to MAIN.

Those multiport fuel selector thingys are expensive and if they leak.. well.. they are expensive.
 

sykanr0ng

Bronco Guru
Joined
Aug 11, 2014
Messages
5,363
Another common solution is to plumb the aux into the main and setup a simple low pressure (carb) fuel pump on a switch to transfer the fuel from AUX to MAIN.

Those multiport fuel selector thingys are expensive and if they leak.. well.. they are expensive.

... and if that transfer pump set-up is switched on while the main tank is full your gas is now overflowing out onto the ground or your garage floor or...
 
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1buckeyefan1

1buckeyefan1

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I appreciate all of the advice i've gotten so far. I'm still waiting for warm weather to break here so I can begin the teardown on the mountaineer. In the meantime, i've started compiling my parts list.. Instead of maintaining a 'private' list, I've decided to sort of pivot this thread into a how-to for anyone else attempting this for the first time. Then as I get into it, i'll try to take some pics and document my swap for others to follow.

If anyone has other suggested parts, options, tips, feel free to add or PM. I'll edit the original post for future swappers..
 
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