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Armymedic's 72 Build

Armymedic

Newbie
Joined
Oct 19, 2020
Messages
30
I've decided to jump on the build thread wagon. I bought the Bronco in November 2020 and it's my first. I'm a big fan of muscle cars from the late 60s/early 70s (aren't we all) and used to have a 76 Camaro, so I've got some experience in the engine department even if it's mostly SBC. I was having trouble selling the wife on the muscle car, but she's a fan of Broncos. While a mustang fastback would have been my first choice these Broncos are very cool. Since we live in Clearwater, FL a beach cruiser seemed like a good project. Plus something to work on/have fun with is better than nothing. The Bronco ran/drove when we bought it, but felt like driving an extremely sloppy (dangerously so) boat. My plans are to go through everything in roughly this order:

1. Front end
2. Rear end
3. Engine
4. Body/Exterior
5. Interior

Here's what we started with.
 

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Armymedic

Newbie
Joined
Oct 19, 2020
Messages
30
Going through the thing s that have been done I've found:

-Ranchero springs/shocks
-GM front disc conversion
-Power brakes conversion
-Auto trans conversion (C4)
-Power steering conversion
-MSD ignition upgrades (street fire ignition, distributor)
-WH radiator
-Accessory tank delete
-23 gallon main tank & skid plate (I believe the tank is from NWMP/sunset metal fab)
 

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Armymedic

Newbie
Joined
Oct 19, 2020
Messages
30
First thing was to replace the old Racho shocks with a set of Bilsteins. The top nuts on the front shocks were a complete pain and one of them ended up snapping off altogether. :eek: The change made it possible to be scared driving 15-20mph to being scared at 25-30mph. A big difference, but still nowhere near ready to drive regularly or on a street outside my neighborhood. The brakes were also extremely lacking.
 

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Armymedic

Newbie
Joined
Oct 19, 2020
Messages
30
Since shocks alone didn't make it feel safe to drive I kinda went down a rabbit hole. There were about a thousand instances of, "Well, if I take off part A I might as well take off part B and do both at the same time. That way I don't just have to take off part A again at a later point." So it ended with me deciding to remove the entire front axle and everything attached to it.

The inner axle seals were leaking so I also pulled out the gears and decided to clean up the housing. In retrospect I wish I had paid for san/media blasting because it was a huge PITA. Since I had room to work I also started cleaning up the frame. Frame, housing, knuckles/etc were covered with POR-15 and then spray painted over with chassis spray paint.
 

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Armymedic

Newbie
Joined
Oct 19, 2020
Messages
30
The next part was really tried my patience. Changing the gears. Eventual plans are to go with a 4r70w or 6r80 so I swapped the original 4.11 gears in the front. After searching around the forum I decided not to "fear the gear" and picked up a set of Yukon 4.88s. Once I get the front end back together I'll probably drive it for a bit so I'm going to run no front drive shaft and stick with the original rear end gears until I'm ready for the trans swap (not to mention that there was no travel in the front driveshaft and getting it off involved hammers, ratchet straps, and a LOT of cursing). After many attempts I got the backlash and gear pattern within spec.

Before beginning my front end geometry was off so I ended up going with a heavy duty track bar drop bracket and drop pitman arm, even though I've only doing a 2.5" lift (a big thanks to DirtDonk for the guidance). Someone had welded the crap out of the top track bar bolt so I ended up having to grind off the entire head of the bolt and then use a screw extractor to get the rest of the bolt out.

After several months things were read to go back together.
 

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Armymedic

Newbie
Joined
Oct 19, 2020
Messages
30
New parts going in:
-James Duff T-Rex arms
-James Duff 2.5" springs
-James Duff heavy duty track bar bracket
-James Duff adjustable track bar with heim end
-James Duff drop pitman arm
-James Duff heavy duty coil retainers
-WH 3 way adjustable tie rods/drag link
-Hellwig front sway bar

I also dropped the oil pan to replace the gasket and stop the leak on the dipstick. As a side note Rustoleum Gloss Deep Blue is a really close match to the Duff Signature Blue.
 

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Armymedic

Newbie
Joined
Oct 19, 2020
Messages
30
Hubs, etc. going back on and the big upgrade, Wilwood d52 front calipers. I wasn't sure how the blue duff parts would mesh with a typical red caliper so I went with the black version. Also grabbed some drilled/slotted rotors for the bling effect. Next will be new wheels/tires.
 

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Armymedic

Newbie
Joined
Oct 19, 2020
Messages
30
Wheels/tires added. I went with 17" Method 312's and Mickey Thompson Baja ATZ 35's. Now it's finally back on 4 wheels! But no brakes yet. Current plans/work as of June 2021: run new nickel copper lines front/rear, new master cylinder, 1" BL to help with the addition of the 35's. The 35's seem to fit now, but I figure why not.
 

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Armymedic

Newbie
Joined
Oct 19, 2020
Messages
30
Wow, your starting point is a lot of peoples finishing point! Can't wait to see your progress!

The body/paint and interior are definitely in fair shape. Underneath is where 90% of the work needs to be done. Tons of rust, leaks, and shot bushings. At some point I'll be learning to weld because the floor pans are rusted through and just covered with diamond plate.
 

awest5321

Contributor
Jr. Member
Joined
Feb 13, 2010
Messages
236
Loc.
Exit 79 on I85
I'm looking for a set of front and rear gears. Did you buy new carrier for the 4.88 swap or use the old one. I might take your old gears if you want to sell.
 
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Armymedic

Newbie
Joined
Oct 19, 2020
Messages
30
I'm looking for a set of front and rear gears. Did you buy new carrier for the 4.88 swap or use the old one. I might take your old gears if you want to sell.

I reused the carrier for the swap. Unfortunately my die grinder (not me of course) did a number on the pinion while attempting to cut the cage of the inner pinion bearing off. I probably wont get to the rear gears for some time, but I can check to see if you're still looking when the time comes.
 

JeffG

Contributor
Sr. Member
Joined
May 7, 2004
Messages
510
Loc.
San Antonio, TX
Nice looking Bronco and great start. I like your approach so far. You mention it is a '72, but the doors appear to be from a '66. Maybe a tub swap in its past or someone moved the door striker position either on the door or the tub to make it line up.

I like the looks of those Method wheels. Are they 17x8 or 9 and did you have to use spacers in the front or rear for clearance?
 
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Armymedic

Newbie
Joined
Oct 19, 2020
Messages
30
Nice looking Bronco and great start. I like your approach so far. You mention it is a '72, but the doors appear to be from a '66. Maybe a tub swap in its past or someone moved the door striker position either on the door or the tub to make it line up.

I like the looks of those Method wheels. Are they 17x8 or 9 and did you have to use spacers in the front or rear for clearance?

Thanks! You are correct on the doors. I'm not sure when or who changed them but I do prefer the location of the outside lock. It does make finding door panels/parts much more of a pain though. It's not near the top of my to-do list, but I've considered buying or trading for a correct set. I'll add a couple pics of the doors and striker post. I'm not sure if body work was done or if the position was simply moved.

For the wheels, they're 17x8.5 with a 4.75" backspace. As of now they fit nicely with no spacers and only the 2.5" James Duff springs and Bilsteins. I haven't driven it yet, so I can't comment on any potential rubbing.
 

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jdowns67

Contributor
Owner since 2001
Joined
Feb 27, 2010
Messages
37
Loc.
Wilmington, NC
Method Wheels

Looks Great! I just installed Method wheels the same size with zero offset. I added spacers to mine. I wish I understood why yours look good without spacers and if I didn't have mine on there, the wheels would be way too far inside the fenders.
 
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Armymedic

Newbie
Joined
Oct 19, 2020
Messages
30
Looks Great! I just installed Method wheels the same size with zero offset. I added spacers to mine. I wish I understood why yours look good without spacers and if I didn't have mine on there, the wheels would be way too far inside the fenders.

It's probably just the angle of the pic. The rear wheels sit in a good bit further than the front and I suspect I'll need spacers once some new fender flares go on.
 
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Armymedic

Newbie
Joined
Oct 19, 2020
Messages
30
Hellwig front sway bat installed
 

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