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Fix Motor Mount
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Throttle Body 65mm
Wheel Alignment
Heat Riser Replacement
Vent Window Repair
Center Console Mount
Straighten Bumper
Ford 6R80 6 spd
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My Air Conditioning story...
- Thread starter Boss Hugg
- Start date
OP
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OP
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So I'm thinking about putting a hydraulic hose quick disconnect in the suction line...
The 5.0 Explorer used a hard line made onto the AC manifold and ran up and over the alternator on the passenger side. While I have not pulled an 5.0 from an explorer yet, I'm sure this AC line would make it difficult without evacuating the AC system.
Some of us seem to enjoy pulling engines from our broncos more often than others. I feel like I might go to a little more motor in the future, and I'd like to be able to swap engines without AC work too. Just because you evacuate a system doesn't mean you pull all the oil out, and you never know how much oil is left, so you risk overfilling the AC system with oil and reducing it's effectiveness.
So I want to put a hose in place of the hard line over the front of the engine, because it's a decent route given my under-hood configuration. But I think I need a way to disconnect the hose without losing the contents. It won't happen often, but I want the possibility.
Thoughts?
The 5.0 Explorer used a hard line made onto the AC manifold and ran up and over the alternator on the passenger side. While I have not pulled an 5.0 from an explorer yet, I'm sure this AC line would make it difficult without evacuating the AC system.
Some of us seem to enjoy pulling engines from our broncos more often than others. I feel like I might go to a little more motor in the future, and I'd like to be able to swap engines without AC work too. Just because you evacuate a system doesn't mean you pull all the oil out, and you never know how much oil is left, so you risk overfilling the AC system with oil and reducing it's effectiveness.
So I want to put a hose in place of the hard line over the front of the engine, because it's a decent route given my under-hood configuration. But I think I need a way to disconnect the hose without losing the contents. It won't happen often, but I want the possibility.
Thoughts?
bronconut73
Bronco Guru
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Some of the 70's Ford a/c systems had the two lines coming to the manifold at the compressor and each line had little screw valves so you could close them off and pull the lines without losing any refrigerant. Pretty archaic by today's standards though.
I have swapped a few engines where I just took the a/c compressor and its lines and pulled it out of the way for the swap. All went back together and a/c worked fine. I have even used bungee cords to hold the a/c compressor and its associated lines back out of the way.
I have swapped a few engines where I just took the a/c compressor and its lines and pulled it out of the way for the swap. All went back together and a/c worked fine. I have even used bungee cords to hold the a/c compressor and its associated lines back out of the way.
OP
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have you seen this install thread?
http://www.classicbroncos.com/forums/showthread.php?t=263513&highlight=vintage+air+heat
Also, I wanted to add that I seem to remember hearing that some systems didn't seem to put out much heat. While playing with routing of hoses on mine, I'm noticing that if you bend the hoses thru the passenger air inlet like VA instructs, the heater hoses can squeeze off or even kink. So I'm Going to use bulkhead connections in the wedge shaped sheet metal piece in one of the last pieces. This will keep any bumping on hose outside the firewall from potentially breaking the cores in the evap unit.
vintage air tec
New Member
I would steer clear of any quick connect fittings or flare tools when setting up the system. The section that the O-ring sits on is swaged specifically for AC O-rings, If you needed this swaged line you could purchase pre swaged hardline by the foot (vintage air or other) of find a local AC/hydraulic shop to see if they can swage a AC O-ring tube. Your best bet would be to use the provided hoses in the Vintage Air kit (engine side) for the evaporator to bulk head hoses, trying to fab hardlines to make the unions will be tricky and as you said will probably take 4 or 5 to make it correct. Vintage air carries a bulk head fitting kit for just this reason (part# 35704-VUD). It will have all the fittings for the bulkhead side and the evaporator side, all you will need is the hose. A little trick when routing hose from the evaporator to the bulkhead fittings is give your self an extra 6" of hose on each line. This way when you are trying to make a tight bend the additional hose will allow you to make a more gradual bend and hit the fittings without putting the hose into a bind.
Yep.. went through it all. I know my set up will be different because of everything being custom on mine but I learn a little from everyone and it helps big time.
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Well, I bought some fittings and hose and a bulkhead connector. Still waiting on shipping tho.
In the meantime, I got a little work done on the sheet metal. I wanted to open up some space above the evaporator box in order to hook hoses up without kinking them somewhere. So here's another photo dump. Enjoy.
In the meantime, I got a little work done on the sheet metal. I wanted to open up some space above the evaporator box in order to hook hoses up without kinking them somewhere. So here's another photo dump. Enjoy.
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OP
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I didn’t think it thru very far.
This ledge is in my way.
I wish I had cut the ledge off and used a solid piece to just extend up to the cover like this.
I need more flat surface for the 4-port bulkhead connector coming.
And wouldn’t you know that connector shows to be ready for delivery Monday morning....
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So I just spent an hour chasing wiring in my ugly conglomeration of EFI wiring. I found that 3 years ago I DID take the time to get AC wiring done under the hood, at least what concerns the PCM and my bulkhead connectors—except the wire that will go to the compressor and another wire that will go to the pressure switch. This is a huge relief because it means the rest of the wiring should be pretty straight forward.
So since a lot of the work is already done I thought I’d take a break from bending over under the dash (yeah, that makes sense) to sit down and brag online about the progress I’ve made today.
Ok, back to work.
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So since a lot of the work is already done I thought I’d take a break from bending over under the dash (yeah, that makes sense) to sit down and brag online about the progress I’ve made today.
Ok, back to work.
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OP
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So I’ve now got a short somewhere when I push the radio into the hole with the dash panel fastened into place. I get it all in place and looking right and then the radio quits. I’ve found that the radio case has 12v on it after it quits. So I’m calming my nerves for a bit and then we’ll try to find the culprit.
Here’s a couple more pics.
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Here’s a couple more pics.
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