SpareParts
Bronco Guru
- Joined
- Nov 13, 2004
- Messages
- 5,592
Lawn mowers have great switches under the seats.... I'm sure you can find them cheap! LOL
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Yeller's Broncno Build: New Adventures!
- Thread starter Yeller
- Start date
farmerjohn
Jr. Member
- Joined
- Aug 28, 2011
- Messages
- 124
Nice job on 'ol Yeller, Great planning w the frame and cage, I'm impressed. does it squeak w the body bolted straight through, [sandwiched ] between the cage and frame mounts? The body is off mine and I keep looking at the mid section, back. Thinking about how to tie the cage in along with a 2" body lift, I hate those plastic pucks, upper coil-over mounts, a frame designed for leaf springs, and think the factory frame is in the way and just want to cut it all off! Or, maybe cut it in front of the under seat body mounts and move the frame up 2" and weld it back up. Or, build a new frame that fits the under side of the body and weld that to the front half and sandwich the body between frame and cage. Or, focus on the fact it's not a KOH rig/tube buggy and put it back together. Or...., I'm stuck.....Yours is killer, like the GM drivetrain.
The seats look good. Will it be at OCBR? If so, I may just have to ask to sit in them!! LOL ;D
OP
OP
OP
OP
No it doesn't squeak at all. The only squeaks are the Johnny joints I need to grease and the steering linkage. I can see on the dash the paint is wrinkled up about a 1/16" around the washers on the bolts at the windshield location. The chassis is very rigid.
You are right the factory frame is all in the way. IMO I spent less time starting from scratch then I would have fighting a stock frame by far. Even customer vehicles I've gotten where I just cut the frame at a place that makes since and hang new rails in place. Not for everyone but I like it and it works.
Darn killer build. Too many things to go on about, but I really like the mitered cage and how tucked everything is in the front suspension and steering is.
I don't have a bender and that cage has me thinking I can do a tube bumper I designed for my f100 with miters!
I don't have a bender and that cage has me thinking I can do a tube bumper I designed for my f100 with miters!
farmerjohn
Jr. Member
- Joined
- Aug 28, 2011
- Messages
- 124
I have a few questions for you if you don't mind. I am moving my rear axle back 8". How long are your rear links? How close to the Transfer case u joint did you mount them? Are 9/16 link bolts big enough? Are the upper link mounts on the same "y" axis? Why do you answer questions from total strangers?;D This is my 5th Bronco by the way, 2nd Toyota, the '85 I have now is geared down, locked -up, flat bedded, cut-out and wheeled daily by me and my son's. I've had 3 GM trucks on 40's, The last 2 were on 1 tons. All of the above used off the shelf goodies for upgrades. I would use the 4 link kit for bronco's that's on the market, if it wasn't for that ugly axle truss thingy with the too tall link bracket. I want mine low and built. So I've been wheel'n and wrenching since I could look thru the steering wheel of my Granddad's Scout. Now that I'm bump'n 50, I decided I need to up my game and build more than bumpers, consoles , and gear cases , etc...I want me and the boys to build a smooth riding, great handling, trail kicking, kick butt Bronco. just trying to learn the rules from someone who obviously has "game". Thanks
OP
OP
The rear links are 36" center to center. As for how close to the tcase yolk I reall have no idea as long as the Tcase isn't mounted way above the link mounts its really not a big deal, its low enough that it doesn't even run a CV on the driveshaft just a standard joint, to get the pinion up more out of harms way at ride height the pinion is up past straight instead of the tcase output and the pinion being parrallel, the pinion is rolled up so the angles match at the tcase and pinion yolk, basically a long CV joint, so it doesn't vibrate. OK thinking back to machining class..... Y axis.... The answer is yes, almost, they are very close. My rule of thumb on the rear for the Z axis is at the frame 50% of the axle distance, worked that out years ago with lots of trial and error before suspension calculators.
Yes 9/16 bolts are more than sufficient, in 20 years I've seen 1 broken one and it was obviously defective on a brand new build. If worried use F911 bolts, they are aircraft grade and traceable, expensive but worth it if your concerned.
As for answering questions for total strangers..... If I can help you build a better working, stronger, more reliable rig than if we ever do meet then we get to spend time wheelin and covering ground rather than struggling and wrenchin;D
And thank you for the compliments, I'm just a knuckle draggin fabricator that builds stuff that goes forward.
Yes 9/16 bolts are more than sufficient, in 20 years I've seen 1 broken one and it was obviously defective on a brand new build. If worried use F911 bolts, they are aircraft grade and traceable, expensive but worth it if your concerned.
As for answering questions for total strangers..... If I can help you build a better working, stronger, more reliable rig than if we ever do meet then we get to spend time wheelin and covering ground rather than struggling and wrenchin;D
And thank you for the compliments, I'm just a knuckle draggin fabricator that builds stuff that goes forward.
Last edited:
farmerjohn
Jr. Member
- Joined
- Aug 28, 2011
- Messages
- 124
You threw me w that "z" thing Man! I aint all knowed up, on that there stuff. I used "y" as a reference because on graph paper, it's the line perpendicular to horizontal. Thanks though.
- Joined
- May 24, 2004
- Messages
- 3,411
Without measuring, I am 99% sure my rear links are 36" also, and know of several other competition buggies running all equal length 36" links.
SpareParts
Bronco Guru
- Joined
- Nov 13, 2004
- Messages
- 5,592
Mine are 36"... Because Steve told me to do so! Lol
INPHOBIC
Bronco Guru
Mine are 36" but not cause Steve told me too. But if I would have listened to Steve's advice over the years it sounds like I would have built them the same way.. My uppers are shorter because I screwed up on a rear link one time with longer uppers than lowers (because thats how it fit and we built the car in 3 days) and it really made the car not want to climb. So I try to set mine now so the numbers are similar at bump, ride & droop.
Kyle.malone
Bronco Guru
Looking good Steve... I might need a new set of seats along with Adams rig also....
OP
OP
I'll let you check out mine, the cost isn't too bad either
roderickl
New Member
Aluminum Alloy for Roof
I am curious which alloy you used for the roof?
(3003, 5052)
Thanks,
Rod
I am curious which alloy you used for the roof?
(3003, 5052)
Thanks,
Rod
OP
OP
No idea what the alloy is. It did make 60 degree bends without issues. When I bought it just bought it from the same shop that I had bend it
OP
OP
Thanks Ken!
Missed you last week, we managed to have fun without you
The stance is easy, lift the front enough to level it out, bolt on some big tires and wittle away at the sheet metal till they fit, or just throw away all that bronco stuff under there and build from scratch...
Missed you last week, we managed to have fun without you
The stance is easy, lift the front enough to level it out, bolt on some big tires and wittle away at the sheet metal till they fit, or just throw away all that bronco stuff under there and build from scratch...
- Joined
- Mar 8, 2007
- Messages
- 81,747
Thanks Ken!
Missed you last week, we managed to have fun without you
The stance is easy, lift the front enough to level it out, bolt on some big tires and wittle away at the sheet metal till they fit, or just throw away all that bronco stuff under there and build from scratch...
haha, throw away the bronco stuff. ;D
