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Old 01/13/21, 05:42 AM   #1
Drtj
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Electric 6 port fuel selector valve wiring

I am using a Carter low pressure fuel pump (lpfp), BC accumulator, Fi tech hpfp to feed my 351w, with main and aux tanks connected.
I was told the selector valve is a selenoid type valve, which has the main tank as the default setting, and the aux tank selects only when the valve is energized.
The 6 port valve has a 6 pin connector (a through f) where only 5 pins (a through e) have wires connected, the f terminal is unused.
I believe the selector was designed to both select fuel and to power the fuel pump: if each tank had there own fuel pump. In my system I only need to wire for fuel selection, perhaps 1 wire to energize the fuel selector when my dash switch is selected for aux. I would attempt to bypass the sending unit wires past the 6 port valve connector and run them straight to the dash, or perhaps try to leave them connected to the a,b,c valve terminals as I already have them wired.
Can someone tell me which 6 port connector terminal wire or wires (a-e) are required to energize the selector valve, and therefore select the aux tank for fuel?
Without this forum I have no project, I am here you just (normally) don't see me. Thanks.
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Old 01/13/21, 08:27 AM   #2
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To be honest I have never seen a 6 port solenoid style selector valve. I only know of the motor driven ones. And that matches your wiring from what I remember. 2 wires control the motor. DC reversible so selecting the polarity is selecting what ports are used. 3 wires change over the fuel tank sending unit. It has been a long time since I did anything with a 6-port.

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Old 01/13/21, 09:32 AM   #3
Drtj
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Thanks Broncobowsher. I had 2 main questions for my supplier, is it motor driven and which wires are used to energize it. His response was that the old valves were 1 wire power in, motor driven units and that the newer are multiwire, selenoid type that default to main tank when powered off. I believe this requires the dash selector switch to be powered in run and start with my fitech electric fuel pump power wire used to trip a relay to power the lpfp and the dash switch to select the appropriate fuel tank feed to the engine.
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Old 01/13/21, 12:12 PM   #4
AZ73
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It's probably the same one I'm using - Pollak. If this isn't clear enough, let me know and maybe I can try scanning it in.
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File Type: jpg wiring.jpg (67.0 KB, 19 views)

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Old 01/13/21, 08:41 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Drtj View Post
I was told the selector valve is a solenoid type valve, which has the main tank as the default setting, and the aux tank selects only when the valve is energized.
Who said this, and have they seen your Bronco in person?
Reason I ask is that the Early Broncos only used a mechanical valve. Any electric valve is a replacement. At least as far as I know. Perhaps '76 and '77 used the electric type, but I've never seen one on an Early Bronco.
Just later Fords...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Drtj View Post
The 6 port valve has a 6 pin connector (a through f) where only 5 pins (a through e) have wires connected, the f terminal is unused.
Looks like AZ73 has you covered then. Even if it's a different brand, it's probably wired the same. And Pollack is, or was the main name in these things. It's what I have on my '71.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Drtj View Post
I believe the selector was designed to both select fuel and to power the fuel pump: if each tank had there own fuel pump.
I had heard that as well, but found it odd that they'd try to power something through the valve instead of directly. I always thought it was to select the low power gauges.
Looks like the instructions bear this out. The other contact points are for switching the gauges, rather than switching the pumps. Notice that in the diagram the pumps are run off of the dash switch, but spliced in before the valve.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Drtj View Post
In my system I only need to wire for fuel selection, perhaps 1 wire to energize the fuel selector when my dash switch is selected for aux.
Nope, need power AND ground to both D and E contacts, switched to opposite with the dash switch. The solenoid type works fine with just one switch position (and it's just one wire) because it springs back under it's own tension when power is removed. The motorized type like this needs power in both directions to select alternate tanks.
Too bad they didn't offer a six-port solenoid type (maybe they do) so you didn't have to mess with the gauge wiring, or use a separate switch.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Drtj View Post
I would attempt to bypass the sending unit wires past the 6 port valve connector and run them straight to the dash, or perhaps try to leave them connected to the a,b,c valve terminals as I already have them wired.
Correct. In scenario 1 you need a second switch. One for the valve and one for the gauges.
In scenario 2 (which sounds like you're already there anyway) you continue to use just the one dash switch, but instead of passing low voltage out to the sending units, it passes 12v to the electric switching motor.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Drtj View Post
Can someone tell me which 6 port connector terminal wire or wires (a-e) are required to energize the selector valve, and therefore select the aux tank for fuel?
Looks like D and E get power and ground alternately to move the motorized valve from one position to the other. The polarity is changed up at the switch.

Double check your brand, just in case they have different wiring schemes. Find their website and see if they have instructions online.
Just in case they decided to be different from Pollack.

Paul

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Old 01/13/21, 08:48 PM   #6
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Thank you AZ73 for the diagram. I have that diagram. Can I ask if your fuel set up is such: both main and aux tanks have there own fuel pumps? Is the dash switch in this diagram internally connected top to bottom? I believe mine is a stock switch and that there is no internal connection between the top row of terminals and the bottom row. Where does the power input to the valve come from, is it fed from the 2 seperate fuel pumps? Can you suggest a way to use the valve for only switching the fuel lines without pumps installed on each fuel tank? Am I correct that the f terminal is not used, or is the diagram suggesting to pin it as an electrical source to switch the valve? Today I checked for continuity from the sending unit pigtail to the dash switch wires for both tanks and found no continuity on either of the wires running through an un powered valve. Currently I have the valvewired as shown in the diagram. I could remove and reconnect my sending unit wires to bypass the valve and have top row of dash switch main, guage, aux as in a stock manual valve pin out. The bottom row would be 12v center and switch dash to aux to power the valve and change fuel to aux. The other pin on the bottom row would be empty=main by default (no power. Would this work? I'm guessing that valve terminals d&e are 12v and aux power, and it wouldn't matter which was in the center pin on the dash switch. Oh and the guage wire would be removed from the valve also, leaving only 2 wires hooked up? Or do I need to buy a different dash switch? I am hoping that others with 2 tanks and tbfi accumulator set ups could help me with this wiring issue. Thanks again.
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Old 01/13/21, 08:54 PM   #7
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I had to re-think about that internal connection. I thought the original switches were, but now I'm not so sure.

Paul

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'68 LUBR, 2.5 + 1 WH, 31x10.50, 4.56, Explorer and 4R70w by EFI Guy, WH disc brakes, Hanson front bumper, Warn winch. "Bought, not built"

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Old 01/13/21, 09:51 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Drtj View Post
Thank you AZ73 for the diagram. I have that diagram. Can I ask if your fuel set up is such: both main and aux tanks have there own fuel pumps? Is the dash switch in this diagram internally connected top to bottom? I believe mine is a stock switch and that there is no internal connection between the top row of terminals and the bottom row. Where does the power input to the valve come from, is it fed from the 2 seperate fuel pumps? Can you suggest a way to use the valve for only switching the fuel lines without pumps installed on each fuel tank? Am I correct that the f terminal is not used, or is the diagram suggesting to pin it as an electrical source to switch the valve? Today I checked for continuity from the sending unit pigtail to the dash switch wires for both tanks and found no continuity on either of the wires running through an un powered valve. Currently I have the valvewired as shown in the diagram. I could remove and reconnect my sending unit wires to bypass the valve and have top row of dash switch main, guage, aux as in a stock manual valve pin out. The bottom row would be 12v center and switch dash to aux to power the valve and change fuel to aux. The other pin on the bottom row would be empty=main by default (no power. Would this work? I'm guessing that valve terminals d&e are 12v and aux power, and it wouldn't matter which was in the center pin on the dash switch. Oh and the guage wire would be removed from the valve also, leaving only 2 wires hooked up? Or do I need to buy a different dash switch? I am hoping that others with 2 tanks and tbfi accumulator set ups could help me with this wiring issue. Thanks again.
The answer is kind of. I run 2 fuel pumps but not for 2 tanks. I run a low pressure pump from the rear tank to the valve, then a high pressure after the valve to the EFI. I did this because when I built it, the valve wasn't rated for the high pressure needed for my EFI so I couldn't run the HP pump before it. (Things have changed since then.) The Aux tank is gravity feed to the valve but when it's on aux tank the high pressure pump draws the fuel because the tank is higher than the pump. Thus I didn't bother with the valve controlling the pumps. I run a DPST (Dual Pole Single Throw) switch at the dash. When it's in the "off" position, which is the main tank, it powers the low pressure pump and puts the valve on main tank, when I switch to "on" it turns off the low pressure pump and moves the valve to aux tank. It would turn on another pump but since I don't have one, I leave that terminal empty. If you are running 2 pump this would power the second pump. My high pressure pump is on another circuit that runs it when I start the Bronco, like any modern car. The switch is rated for enough amps that I didn't need a relay, but I used one anyway, and I use 12 gauge wire to run everything. I believe this was the switch I used but I'd have to go back in my records to make sure. To be honest, I can't recall if the switch actually just controls the relay and the relay does this back and forth between the two (a relay that switches between 2 things), but you get the concept. I'd have to look tomorrow.

https://www.otrattw.net/V-SERIES-SEA...NO-ROCKER.html

This is what it looks like on the dash. "AUX TANK". When down/"off" position, it's powering the main tank pump and switch. When it's in the up/"on" position, it cuts the power to the main tank pump and powers the valve to the aux position.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg thumbnail.jpg (77.3 KB, 5 views)

Last edited by AZ73; 01/13/21 at 10:13 PM..

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Old 01/13/21, 10:18 PM   #9
Drtj
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Thanks DirtDonk for your reply. I was writing as you were posting. I purchased my fuel lines, accumulator, fuel selector, transmission, exhaust from BC broncos. They have not seen my bronco. I talked with Jason about this wiring issue and BC had an old and new schematic for this, 1 wire and 5 wire, he said motor and seolenoid.
If this valve is motor and not solenoid does it default to main tank, or does it remain as last selected? All power to both fuel pumps and the valve is run through the dash switch then, but the pumps don't run through the valve. I will have to find out what the switch diagram is saying, the corner terminals are internally connected? Will a stock bronco switch work with this? All advice is welcome. I will keep mulling this over. Thanks.
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Old 01/13/21, 10:29 PM   #10
Drtj
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And thank you AZ73, again I was writing while you posted. A great deal to think about and very good info, and many ways to do it. I will study this information before I ask questions that will seem stupid tommorow, I appreciate your help.
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Old 01/14/21, 12:50 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Drtj View Post
If this valve is motor and not solenoid does it default to main tank, or does it remain as last selected?
that's one of the big differences between the types. The motorized remains in the position it was left when the power was turned off. Only changing ports when power is applied to the other post.
So if "D" has 12v+ power last and "E" has ground, then the valve remains at that tank position. Once the switch is flipped so power goes to "E" and ground is "D" the motor reverses and goes to the other tank.

A solenoid type like we're talking about is in one position with no power, and the opposite position with power applied to the single contact. Grounds through the bracket.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Drtj View Post
All power to both fuel pumps and the valve is run through the dash switch then, but the pumps don't run through the valve.
Correct. And it's not a bad idea to run the pump's power through relays and the switch only triggers the relays. Takes a big load off of the dash switch.

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Originally Posted by Drtj View Post
I will have to find out what the switch diagram is saying, the corner terminals are internally connected?
Possible, but I have a different take (for the moment).
The switch in the diagram flip-flops the circuits based on the diagonal lines. At the moment I take that switch as a factory style with external jumper wires.
Could be internal, but that probably makes it a specialized switch that might be hard to find unless Pollack makes them.
The factory original switches were made by a company called Indak (interesting similarity to Pollack?) and are available aftermarket still.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Drtj View Post
Will a stock bronco switch work with this? All advice is welcome. I will keep mulling this over. Thanks.
Waiting to hear from others on this. But even if those circuits are independent (two rows of three contact points) then a simple external jumper wire between those posts indicated with diagonal lines would make it like the diagram.

Paul

'71 Wagon, 3.5" WH, F150 disc brakes and steering, 4.11 33x11.50 Thornbirds, Kayline soft top, Hanson bumpers. "Built, not bought"

'68 LUBR, 2.5 + 1 WH, 31x10.50, 4.56, Explorer and 4R70w by EFI Guy, WH disc brakes, Hanson front bumper, Warn winch. "Bought, not built"

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Old 01/14/21, 08:58 AM   #12
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I looked this morning. The switch in my dash powers a dual relay which switches the valve/pump between the main and aux. Same concept as just using the switch.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

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Old 01/14/21, 10:05 AM   #13
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This shows a few "correct" ways to wire fuel pumps & valves:

(click this text)


The caption below it explains in more detail.

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