700R4 with Atlas in my Bronco

Yeller · Aug 2, 2020

powers4680 said:
Yes it works great.

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I see it has “that” engine it too;D
It’s an elite bunch

I ran the 241 for a while too before going to an Atlas. But I don’t have a Bronco frame so I can’t comment on making it fit.

So I’m not completely hi jacking. I do have a contribution. A 231 from an S10 is a couple of inches narrower. It is not as popular for a swap because it has the 5 bolt pattern like the older BW units in rangers. So your on your own for clocking rings and such to get the front output where you want it. But it will bolt up to a 700r4 with all factory parts. And if the 700 came out of an S10 with a 4.3 it is the correct tans for fitting to a sbf.

sprdv1 · Aug 3, 2020

Good stuff...

powers4680 said:
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WILDHORSES · Aug 3, 2020

Calibronc66 said:
I had a hell of a time getting my 700R4 TV cable to function correctly with my Holley sniper. Burned up the clutches on 3/4 gear. I ended up having to purchase a geometry correction kit from bow tie overdrive. Works awesome now. Just a heads up if your going to the sniper with the 700R4.

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We followed the directions from Bowtie meticulously concerning the TV cable and we checked all the pressures and checked in with them since it is part of the warranty process. First time around we had the 2V Sniper and everything worked great. This time we will add the Edelbrock Proflow to the new 347. Anyone reading should definitely pay attention to the proper set up of the TV cable. Very good advise.

Jim

toddz69 · Aug 4, 2020

WILDHORSES said:
We followed the directions from Bowtie meticulously concerning the TV cable and we checked all the pressures and checked in with them since it is part of the warranty process. First time around we had the 2V Sniper and everything worked great. This time we will add the Edelbrock Proflow to the new 347. Anyone reading should definitely pay attention to the proper set up of the TV cable. Very good advise.

Jim

Bowtie's website (really hard to navigate/find things on it) doesn't seem to show the various TV cable adapters anymore - do they offer something for the Proflow setup? I used their 5.0 throttle adapter and after being very precise with my installation 13-14 years ago, it's still working great.

Todd Z.

Calibronc66 · Aug 4, 2020

Call them....their website is not up to date. I saw what I needed on their Facebook page.

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Stefan · Aug 6, 2020

WILDHORSES said:
At this point we would say the main thing to watch for is spacing the torque converter correctly so you don't break the pump...like Mitch did. He drove the rig and even wheeled it and drove it some more. Then one day the trans just quit. When he took it out of the Bronco the pump in the front of the trans was broken, literally like broke in half??? Bowtie overdrives said we did not have the converter spaced correctly. I trust them so we will do a better job this time. Mitch is getting pretty good at taking transmissions out.;D Oh and now the 302 is sitting on the stand and a 347 is getting ready to go back in. Maybe it was all part of his master plan.

Jim

How did you get around that issue? Does someone make spacers to accommodate that difference?

What about fitting a Dana 20 to the trans?

Thank you for the response. I am trying to make something that is relatively reliable.

toddz69 · Aug 6, 2020

Stefan said:
How did you get around that issue? Does someone make spacers to accommodate that difference?

You buy an engine/trans adapter from AA that allows everything to fit together correctly. I don't recall any particular installation difficulties when I did mine but there might have been a sequence to follow. I can't remember if it's the Ford stuff, GM stuff, or both but I remember there's a series of seating steps to do to make sure the converter is seated correctly.

Todd Z.

Yeller · Aug 6, 2020

Stefan said:
How did you get around that issue? Does someone make spacers to accommodate that difference?

What about fitting a Dana 20 to the trans?

Thank you for the response. I am trying to make something that is relatively reliable.

Sometimes washers are needed to space the converter properly to the flex plate. My rule of thumb has always been 3/16-1/4” Of clearance between the 2 with the converter pushed all the way in. less is an issue and more needs a washer to take up some of the space. Have never had an issue and spent several years of my life installing them for a living.

WILDHORSES · Aug 7, 2020

Stefan said:
How did you get around that issue? Does someone make spacers to accommodate that difference?
reliable.

For us we still have the issue because the rebuilt trans is not yet re-installed. The 347 (new motor) detour and now complete engine bay redo is under way.

As Steve noted we will be paying close attention to the spacing of the toque converter and using washers as necessary. As for function the 700R was awesome in this rig so we have no hesitation about going for round 2. We'll chalk this one up to learning experience.

Jim

jmhend · Aug 8, 2020

WILDHORSES said:
For us we still have the issue because the rebuilt trans is not yet re-installed. The 347 (new motor) detour and now complete engine bay redo is under way.

As Steve noted we will be paying close attention to the spacing of the toque converter and using washers as necessary. As for function the 700R was awesome in this rig so we have no hesitation about going for round 2. We'll chalk this one up to learning experience.

Jim

Jim,

Can't wait to see what you and Mitch come up with.

Jason

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Stefan · Aug 10, 2020

Awesome! Thank you for the information!

Stefan · Aug 11, 2020

I just wanted to confirm that the AA 700R4 to Dana20 is for T Dana 20's and not the J shift? Is that correct? Or will it work for both?

Calibronc66 · Aug 11, 2020

Correct

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svobronco · Aug 11, 2020

Stefan said:
I just wanted to confirm that the AA 700R4 to Dana20 is for T Dana 20's and not the J shift? Is that correct? Or will it work for both?

It will work for both, but the included AA shifter bracket will only fit the T-shift. You have to make your own bracket if you run the J

WILDHORSES · Aug 11, 2020

Stefan said:
I just wanted to confirm that the AA 700R4 to Dana20 is for T Dana 20's and not the J shift? Is that correct? Or will it work for both?

T-shift only as with many of the adapters there's just no way to make a stock J-shiter work. You could probably get away with a twin stick on a j-shift with some mods and fabrication. Adapter and info here.

https://www.wildhorses4x4.com/produ...smission-Adapter-Kit-Dana-20/advancedadapters

Don't forget if you go with a 700R4 and small block Ford you will need a engine to trans adapter as well. There are 3 versions of that on this page.
https://www.wildhorses4x4.com/category/advancedadapters

Jim

Stefan · Aug 12, 2020

WILDHORSES said:
T-shift only as with many of the adapters there's just no way to make a stock J-shiter work. You could probably get away with a twin stick on a j-shift with some mods and fabrication. Adapter and info here.

https://www.wildhorses4x4.com/produ...smission-Adapter-Kit-Dana-20/advancedadapters

Don't forget if you go with a 700R4 and small block Ford you will need a engine to trans adapter as well. There are 3 versions of that on this page.
https://www.wildhorses4x4.com/category/advancedadapters

Jim

Thank you! I appreciate the information.

svobronco · Aug 15, 2020

WILDHORSES said:
T-shift only as with many of the adapters there's just no way to make a stock J-shiter work. You could probably get away with a twin stick on a j-shift with some mods and fabrication.

Jim

Good point, should have mentioned I have twin sticks on my J case /700R4 combo

Stefan · Sep 9, 2020

How difficult is it to make twin sticks work for the J-shift? Or, would an atlas be a better pairing?

700R4 with Atlas in my Bronco

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