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Old 05/28/19, 04:49 PM   #1
ngsd
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another 66 build thread

Ok, where do I start.... After trolling here for months looking for more information about doing a Coyote build, I read countless threads, learned a lot and dove in head first. I learn the hard way so nothing comes easy but the advice I have got from this forum has definitely helped me, saved me a lot of time and money and prevented me from making too many mistakes. I am going learn that I don't know what I don't know soon enough but I certainly have avoided many pitfalls that I know I would have fallen into,


In my search for the Coyote project I decided to start collecting parts and ended up with a few "projects" only to decide that I am going to build that Coyote project with a Krawlers Edge chassis and a new body. I have the 2017 Mustang donor so that one is going to be an ongoing build that I will document and post when the time comes. While collecting the parts, I opted to do a couple of builds first to learn more before I make that major investment so I started with the worst one to learn the most. I also ran across and purchased a 74 explorer that was so original and rust free that that one is going to go back to original and somewhere down the road as well. I Stored it at my dads house and maybe will see it again someday! I then picked up a 66 and a 76 at auction from a storage lot for parts and a 66 rust free tub as the starter for the Coyote project that now I probably wont use it for.

This build thread will focus on the 66 U15.

The wagon started life as a red 289 3 speed which it still had in it. It had been cut, lifted and had considerable rust in the floors, posts, inner fenders and kickers. The cowl, windshield frame, upper rear quarters and rear corners were good but everything else needed to be replaced. I also had a small front end hit at one time but enough to need the front inner fenders and support, grill replacement.

The build will be to change the color to a 2015 Lexus Atomic Silver with black trim and black chrome accents. I will do a soft top only.

Other mods or changes planned right now will include a Blueprint 306, AX15 5 speed, swap the D30 with a d44, Lubr with 2.5" lift and 1" body lift. I will be using a Krawlers edge family cage with the seats from the 2017 Mustang. All of this is subject to change but so far I am set on this.

So this is the one where I was contemplating making a beach cruiser and turning it into a Roadster but I decided to bite the alignment bullet and learn how to replace posts and still get the doors to align.

I am in for a battle according to everything I have read but I am up for the challenge and actually looking forward to it. I have measured everything and measured again, taken a lot of pictures and am now drilling, grinding and starting the removal process.

Here is where it started at the wrecking yard and I will update as I have time. Wish me luck!
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Old 05/28/19, 07:55 PM   #2
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Good luck! Looking forward to seeing updates as it comes together.
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Old 05/29/19, 06:05 AM   #3
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Best of luck man, I'll be watchin ya

1966 LUBR, 351/4spd swap in progress, 2.5" SL, 1" BL, 31's Tonko

1972 U15, 302 3spd, 3.5" SL, 1" BL, 35's Frankie
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Old 05/29/19, 11:32 AM   #4
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Thanks, here are a few more progress pics. Nothing major yet, just planning and disassembly while I gather parts and tools.

Grinders, niblers, shear cutters, spot weld drills, mig welder, this "hobby" is getting pricey!
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Old 05/29/19, 02:41 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ngsd View Post
Grinders, niblers, shear cutters, spot weld drills, mig welder, this "hobby" is getting pricey!
and i see you have the equally important WD-40...it (quickly) got to the point where I would not TOUCH a nut or bolt on my 66 without soaking it in PB Blaster!

1966 LUBR, 351/4spd swap in progress, 2.5" SL, 1" BL, 31's Tonko

1972 U15, 302 3spd, 3.5" SL, 1" BL, 35's Frankie
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Old 05/29/19, 02:57 PM   #6
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Oh yeah, that it to the starter fluid for any restoration.
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Old 05/31/19, 08:24 AM   #7
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I keep going back and forth on whether to replace the whole post or cut in the lower portion. I see both views but I am leaning towards the whole post. The replacements I got are a little different but it looks like they are the same size. Just the shape of the hump areas are shaped differently. Talking to WH this morning about that.
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Old 06/04/19, 07:47 PM   #8
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Well the aftermarket striker posts and door posts are just too different to try to use a section so it is all coming out. This 66 is a lot different than the 68 up even though the parts are listed as 66-77. Starting with the right side first. pillar out and test fitting rocker and kicker to get an idea of alignment. Slow going and just taking my time. Using the old parts to practice welding. Just using Miller 175 Mig for now but may get some lessons on the Syncrowave 200 Tig next week to see if I can make sense of that. slowwwww but fun.
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Old 06/05/19, 05:45 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ngsd View Post

Slow going and just taking my time. Using the old parts to practice welding. Just using Miller 175 Mig for now but may get some lessons on the Syncrowave 200 Tig next week to see if I can make sense of that. slowwwww but fun.
I'd like to do that same thing at some point, get back up to speed on my welding.

Good luck

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Old 06/22/19, 06:08 PM   #10
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Slow going here but I got a little time today. Doing a little patch work on the inner fender behind the striker post rather than replacing that. Then started fitting the right side pillars, rocker and kicker. this is coming along but it validates what everyone on here continues to emphasize, you need to measure and brace as much as possible. The two piece pillars are additional work but they are the only ones I could find that have the same shape as the original 66 posts. So far I have bought sheet metal parts from WH, JBG, United Pacific and Dennis Carpenter. They all need massaging and trimming.
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Old 06/23/19, 06:29 PM   #11
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First run at fitting the door and actually lined much better than expected. Now off again and start tacking.
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Old 06/24/19, 09:12 AM   #12
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Nice job your doing. Reminds me of mine three years ago. There is light at the end of the tunnel. You will feel it is all worth it when you are driving around a rust free Bronco with a big ole grin on your face. Good luck, Ken
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Old 06/24/19, 09:54 AM   #13
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Nice job your doing. Reminds me of mine three years ago. There is light at the end of the tunnel. You will feel it is all worth it when you are driving around a rust free Bronco with a big ole grin on your face. Good luck, Ken
then you'll be like "damn I need something else to work on" ehh Ken??

1966 LUBR, 351/4spd swap in progress, 2.5" SL, 1" BL, 31's Tonko

1972 U15, 302 3spd, 3.5" SL, 1" BL, 35's Frankie
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Old 06/24/19, 10:26 AM   #14
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better a slow go than a no go right.. Do what you can when you can

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Old 06/24/19, 02:03 PM   #15
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Good advice, I have had to learn to exercise patience and it pays off. If I get to a point where I get frustrated, I quit, relax and come back the next day with a fresh mind. It really helps by approaching it slowly. And it give me time to come on here and learn more!
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