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Old 01/15/13, 02:38 PM   #1
surfer-b
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2000 Explorer OBD II Transplant

Well I finshed my 2000 Explorer OBDII engine transplant. I stated I would do a write up on it so here it is. Hopefully this will answer a lot of Q's all of you have and put a stop to the myth that its too difficult to do, in my opinoin its no more involved than doing the 89-93 stang 5.0, I'm sure will some will argue otherwise. However there are few things that will make it much easier.
1: You will need the complete running vehicle. When you purchase it, drive it and bring it up to operating temp then check for codes, yes you are going to have to purchase a scanner but you are going to need one anyway, this way you will know what you have before you start, which will keep you from guessing later when you have finished and fire it up. I see them all the time on CL for 2K or less with low milage and you can always scrap what you dont need and get some of the money back. I will list the other parts you will need from the Explorer later.

2: You must be able to read a wiring schematic and understand it, if you are not too comfortable with this I'm sure members here can help you along. I will post the schematic I have in the pics, which will be all that is needed, or at least thats all I needed.

3: You are going to have to do some fab work so if you can weld thats great if not you better get to know someone who can. There are 3 things that will need to be addresed, well 2 for sure, the 3rd being the stock Bronco rear tank. I modded it so the Explorer fuel pump would fit in it, you can buy one from the vendors if you like but it will prob need to be modded so the Explorer pump will work.

4: For the PCM mods contact Rick at http://www.amazonracing.com/contact.html
These are the items I had removed from the PCM
A: PATS, I originally was going to use this and I wired up for it but later changed my mind. I didnt want this thing giving me probs when I'm in the middle of nowhere hunting and its 15* outside.
B: Tranny, I'm running the c-4. If you plan on using the stock 4R70 then you will want to leave this unless you are going to use whatever all the other members are using then it will need to be removed. However if you plan to use the stock harness to control the tranny you will need to look at how you are going to incorporate the stock shift leaver to the shift range sensor from the column shifter on the Explorer, I'm sure it can be done I just didnt look into it.
C:Post Cats unless you need to run the cats, I dont
D:EVAP Emissions, there are 3 codes he could not remove with the chip I supplied however they do not effect the engine performance at all, they are as follows:
1: EVAP purge control valve
2: " pressure sensor
3: " vent control
these are all fuel tank emmisions, no worries

Ok I will throw a couple of pics on here to show what the final build looks like and tomorrow I will continue on
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Old 01/15/13, 05:44 PM   #2
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I'm parting out a 1999 as we speak. I wasn't planning on keeping the wiring, but I'm going to follow the rest of this thread in case. Mines already EFI, but I was thinking about using the 4R70W tranny someday...maybe.

1972, EFI'ed 357W, C6, 1356 StrongBox/205, ARBed D60, Shaved 14 bolt, 4:10's, stretched custom 3 link front and rear, hydroboost, 4wheel disks, 40" Creepy Crawlers on DIU 17's & 39.5" TSL's on H1's, BUILT NOT BOUGHT -My Build Thread- -My Videos-
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Old 01/16/13, 08:40 AM   #3
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Here is what I started with after I removed from the Explorer. There are a few things I would suggest doing to the motor before installing,

1: Swap the coolant temp sending unit for the gauge to the stock Bronco sending unit, no mods needed simply take out the one from the Bronco manifold and install to in the Explorer, it is in the same location just calibrated different.
2: Swap the oil sending units, you will nedd the Bronco oil sending unit extention to clear the oil filter.
3:Oil filter, the Explorer I got had the Gooseneck extention on it. I removed the nipple that the oil filter screwed onto the extention and installed it into the block, this allowed me to install the filter in the stock Bronco location.
4: Coil-pack bracket, if no body lift you will have to do this unless you have a raised hood of some kind. I cut down the bracket so that the bottom of it just clears the top of the "ECT",engine coolant temp sensor, I did this after the engine was installed so I would know how much I needed to remove, it should work unless you have taller that stock motor mounts.
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Old 01/16/13, 08:52 AM   #4
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Here is another mod that needs to be done before install. The PCV vacum hoses need to be cut down to clear the firewall, I removed enough so the back of them were almost flush with the block.
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Old 01/16/13, 09:31 AM   #5
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am sooooo watching this one!

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Old 01/16/13, 09:55 AM   #6
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Now it was time to tackle the engine bay. The first thing I did was to spray it down with Easy-Off heavy duty oven cleaner, this stuff really cuts the grease and grime. After letting it sit for bout 10~15 mins I hooked the pressure washer up to the hot water heater and blasted it clean. I also removed the tranny and t-case because I used this B-Quiet sound deadning material, http://www.b-quiet.com/ultimate.html, on the firewall and on the tranny tunnel which really knocks down the heat and noise. Here is a pic after the material was added, the arrow indicates were I had to move the factory Bronco pigtails so they would clear the intake pleneum, you can leave them in the factory location but it really puts them in bad position, not easy to get to and may give problems later on if they were to rubb the insulation off and GRND out.
If you don't do anything else before you install the engine do this mod, you can thank me later.
Where the factory throttle cable goes into the firewall, mount a plate to the firewall, drill a hole so the Lokar throttle cable will mount to it and tack weld the nuts to this plate where the throttle bracket inside bolts go to, if you dont do this its a pain in the ass to work and you will need someone to help you. Here is the Summit prt # for the cable. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/lo...2/media/images
Forgot to mention before I installed the b-quiet I removed that undercoating they sprayed on at the factory with a heat gun and scraper, it will just fall off with this method. This stuff is just "black mammy", roofing tar, here in the south we call it black mammy because if you mess up it will be all over you like ole black mammy.
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Last edited by surfer-b; 01/16/13 at 10:28 AM..
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Old 01/16/13, 07:27 PM   #7
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I'm in the process of building a 2000 Explorer 5.0 right now so i'm definitely watching...

'Ol Blue Daily Driver - 2000 explorer 5.0, 3spd on the floor, 3 1/2" WH suspension lift, 2" body lift, Hydroboost, front disc brakes, 4x4x2, more to come...
http://classicbroncos.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=211047
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Old 01/16/13, 09:09 PM   #8
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Thanks for this thread. I'm sure I'll be needing this mod in the future.

1976 Special Decor, 302, C4, PS, PB.
Running 33" x 9.5 with no lift and 4:11 Posi's at both ends. Build thread. http://classicbroncos.com/forums/sho...+Special+Decor
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Old 01/16/13, 11:53 PM   #9
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Watching for someone to keep the 4R70 and custom wiring in the cruise control.....
The other thing I'm looking at is that Vintage Air said I couldn't use their kit with the factory A/C pump... whats up with that?
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Old 01/17/13, 07:49 AM   #10
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GREAT thread.. Thank you for doing this..

72' Explorer Sport My 1st car, my last car!
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Old 01/17/13, 07:55 AM   #11
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Quote:
The other thing I'm looking at is that Vintage Air said I couldn't use their kit with the factory A/C pump... whats up with that?
Not sure on this one, I havn't looked into it, however I dont know what the diff would be but thats something maybe someone else here can answer. I was planing on using the Explorer comp when I put the in the AC. However I would think they would have a comp that will fit this serp setup.

Quote:
Watching for someone to keep the 4R70 and custom wiring in the cruise control.....
It could be done the only real prob I see is trying to keep the stock column and shifter and incorporate the Explorer shift indicator into it, as for the wiring that would be no prob because for this conversion you need the underdash harness and the tranny harness from the Explorer anyway. Most anything is possible its just a matter of how much time you want to put into it. I need to clear this, I'm talking about the indicator for the PCM and not the visual indidcator
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Old 01/17/13, 09:56 AM   #12
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The next steep I took was to install the engine and see what mods were needed. One thing I was going to have to deal with right away was to notch the cross member for the lower pass idler pully to clear. I think a few of the members have just taken a hammer to it but I didn't want to do this and wanted enough room so I could work around it if needed. Here are a few pics of what I did, I kept the lower cut about an 1" above the seam so I wouldn't get into the lower section of the member. You don't have to notch this much if you dont want. In the 3rd pic you can see were I removed the angle brace, I reinstalled it but cut it down to match member. Also a dirt dobbers nest, one of the culprits of frame rust, this dirt gets wet and want dry for a long time.
I used .250" plate to weld back in the notched area:
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Old 01/22/13, 02:56 PM   #13
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A little update today, hopefully tomorrow I will be able to post more on this and get into the good stuff. Here are a few pics of the frame welded back to clear the serp pully. The first 3 are before I modded the angle brace, the last pic shows the seam I was talking about that I did not want to get below, these two parts overlap bout 1" so I keep the cut up so I would not get into the bottom part of it, this provided plenty of room for clearence.
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Old 01/23/13, 07:01 AM   #14
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Great thread & very nice work !
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Old 01/23/13, 07:55 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FRANKO289 View Post
Great thread & very nice work !
Thanks Franko, I didnt clean the metal as good as I should have to be using the mig on it but its there to stay. Its much better than the factory welds, just doesn't look as good as it could if it were cleaner.
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