Wiring Harness Install - Remove Dash?

Can a wiring harness be installed without removing the dash? To remove the dash would mean pulling the top, family cage, steering column, and folding the windshield down.


I just read http://classicbroncos.com/forums/showthread.php?t=270782 and post 3 (brent13) gives the illusion that this is possible, but Photoshop can be misleading. Lol

I would call it possible, but it would suck.

if it were a stock harness that was being dropped in it would be Ok, but the aftermarket harness require some work, none are drop in.

Not lots of slack in the wires. Maybe if you removed the switches and got them all attached to the harness. Then maybe have string or something through each switch hole so you could pull the switch back into position after you have pushed the harness up behind the dash. You could probably do it, but would be some work and take some good planning on how everything would get back into place. But maybe not as much work as removing all the stuff you listed to get the dash out.

I thought doing the harness with my dash laying on the floor, then I hung it with wire from the cowl as I did some harness routing and such, was tough enough. But you could probably do it with the dash in place if you have lots of patience and plan it all out. Glove box out you'd be able to reach around through that opening some.



Pics of dash install. Nearing final assembly I hung the dash with wire from the cowl as I attached the last wires.

http://s1363.photobucket.com/user/gary__seven/slideshow/Bronco Dash

Well - I've done one with the dash in and one with the dash removed -- and I had NO trouble doing the one with the dash installed ; and now that i think about it - i helped with another dash not removed harness install.
So for me the next harness install I won't remove the dash for it either unless I'm working on a project that requires it to be removed.
I/we removed the glove box , speaker , radio , ash tray , instrument cluster and removed the switches that were going to be replaced { feed the wire to the switch through the dash then install the switch } - gives you plenty of access .
So i guess - "to each his own".

I did my centech harness, with the dash in,It was a pain but it can be done. I did take my seat's out so I could lay on my back.;D

I would think that between removing the ashtray, glove box, instrument cluster, and seats it would be doable? Although, a two foot tall helper with long arms would be an added bonus!

SHX669 & savage - how many four letter words were used during the experience, and are you guys up for a trip to San Diego to help?

Dash out! All the folks here talked me into taking dash out, and glad I did. I had a front cage to deal with, so I had to remove steering column to get the dash out. Cage was in the way otherwise. At the time, I thought it was a monster job, but looking back on it, not too bad. I sure as heck don't want to do it again, however. No way in hell would I try it with the dash in the truck. It can be done, apparently, but it would really bring on the suck in my opinion.

That's one of the great things about Bronco Projects - you can do it anyway you want - LOL.
Hardest part for me is I installed " braided split wire looms " onto the harness and the " bundles " that i made after i separated the factory ones. That was a PAIN ; next time after I don't remove the dash I'll put the braided looms on BEFORE I lay it up under the dash .

I am about to finish wiring one (hopefully) with the dash in.

Did my 73 recently in dash with a Centech harness. No problem but helps to remove steering wheel and front seats to give you plenty of room to work. Top off is a bonus when it comes to windshield wiper wiring

Don't have a great picture of it, but i bolted a couple of short 2*4's to the door strap holes and the bottom of the dash. I was then able to tilt the dash up and down for install, it worked great.

Anything is possible but I won't rewire one unless I can pull the dash. Too many connections to make up etc. that is hard enough with fat fingers, let alone trying to do it while standing on your head...I know it feels like a lot of work to take all that out but in the end, by the extra time you will spend fighting it in place, you would probably just say after the fact you would have been better off removing it.

I installed a Centech a few years ago doing nothing but removing all the switches and ash tray. It was a little bit of a pain, but would do it again over pulling dash. After getting rid of the old harness, I found sufficient space. And just as reference, i had no previous experience with any wiring project even close to that large priviously. Good luck!

I too made all the connections and mounted switches while the dash was out. Then I put one bolt in the "L" bracket on the bottom of the dash on each side while I routed everything through the firewall. I padded the J shifter to lean it up against.

I have a question for you that have installed a centech wiring kit. There is this little box connected to my instrument cluster that I have been told is a voltage regulator for the fuel, temp and oil pres. gauges? Problem is, I don't see anymore wires in my harness around the area of all the cluster wires to connect this box? Is this box eliminated with a new harness? I am working on a early 1973 Ford Bronco. Here is a pic of the box.





Thanks in advance.

Look at this...

I read that and I have my centech wiring installed as instructed.

I guess I am to assume that the new wiring harness bypasses that other regulator. I have no other wires in the harness to connect to it. Nor, does it mention splicing the harness to accommodate that regulator.

Too late to call Centech today. Call tomorrow. Thanks for the help.

Centech has great Customer Service for me in the past. I'm certain he will get you straightened out!

B-man said:

I read that and I have my centech wiring installed as instructed.

Click to expand...

Sounds like you don't. Otherwise you would have that extra harness that they mention connected to all the gauges.
Maybe they left it out by mistake? If so they should be able to send you a new one, or you could make one yourself, as it's pretty basic.

Your harness should have one wire clearly marked for it's function like the instructions say to connect to your existing regulator. The separate harness is just some wires with the proper push-on connector for the output of the regulator and little ring terminals to attach to the gauges themselves.
The second post on each gauge is where the sending unit wires go for each particular gauge function.

B-man said:

I guess I am to assume that the new wiring harness bypasses that other regulator. I have no other wires in the harness to connect to it.

Click to expand...

Nope. Don't assume anything. It states in the second sentence of the instructions regarding the gauges that it "includes a special wire assembly to provide power to each of your gauges..." Additionally it talks about the voltage regulator and says nothing about eliminating it.
So if you don't have the special wiring section, as Centech about it.
But look carefully in your pile-o-parts too, because it's not very big and can hide among the loose parts you're not using.

B-man said:

Nor, does it mention splicing the harness to accommodate that regulator.

Click to expand...

No splicing needed. It's all in the harness usually. Just sounds like your gauge section is missing and just have not found your gauge power wire yet. Look again for the aforementioned Red wire marked "I Post" and/or "INST PWR" in the dash section.

By the way, your IVR, or "instrument voltage regulator" (also known as the "constant power supply") is not an original type for a Bronco. Ours would have had the single tab in the middle and mounted to the screw in the housing in the middle lower section.
You might even see a hint that the old one was mounted to a certain spot by the clean, then rusty shapes on the housing.

Doesn't matter though, as long as the function is the same and the connectors are what are correct for the harness. Otherwise you either need to make the changes to the connectors, or swap yours out for a correct one like this: http://www.wildhorses4x4.com/category/s?keyword=instrument+voltage+regulator which will bolt to your cluster in the correct location.
Someone should have a pic of exactly where they go, but again, the location and exact part number are not critical to the function as long as they work the same and the location doesn't cause any trouble.

Paul

73 and centech

Attached is a pic of the gauge cluster for my 73 before I reinstalled and wired with my new Centech. Every wire had a home and every post had a wire.