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1971 Bronco Build - Catch Up

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jghflys

jghflys

Jr. Member
Joined
Mar 15, 2007
Messages
117
1971 Bronco Build - SPAL Fan Installed

Because of the pulley locations on the 4BT, I decided to go with an electric fan setup. I usually install electric fans on my projects because they are off when you don't need them and move a lot of air when you do need them. This time I went with a SPAL 16 inch fan, SPAL variable speed controller, and a SPAL temperature sensor. I also installed a switch under the dash to override the fan off. The fan is thin and left good clearance between the engine and the fan. I attached the fan to the radiator at the top and bottom so the fan and radiator can be removed together if necessary. This is the first time i used a SPAL product and I haven't run it yet. I will say that the quality of the fan, controller, wiring, and weather tight connectors is excellent, better than Flex-A-Lite.

James
 

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jghflys

jghflys

Jr. Member
Joined
Mar 15, 2007
Messages
117
1971 Bronco Build - Block Heater Install

My daughter lives in Minnesota (too damn cold for me) and the bronco may spend some time there in the winter so I decided the 4BT could us a block heater. Even if it doesn't need the warm up to start, the oil will flow easier if it is warm reducing start up wear and tear. The heater and cord cost about $50 form Cummins.

  1. The freeze plug had to be removed to install the heater. I used a long punch and hammer rotate the plug in the block.
  2. Then I used needle nose vise grips to remove the plug so it wouldn't drop into the block
  3. I was surprised to see how clean the block is inside. There was little rust and mostly a light gray coating on the inside. The block has 86,000 miles on it.
  4. I made sure there were no sharp edges on the plug hole that might cut the o-ring on the heater.
  5. I then installed the heater and tightened the screw to hold it in place.
  6. Finally I attached the plug and dressed up the wiring

James
 

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77TexasBronc

Bronco Guru
Joined
Jan 27, 2003
Messages
2,002
Loc.
Baytown Texas
Very nice

Dont know how I have missed this thread for so long. Awesome job man! Very nice work, and great to see the wife lending a hand. I quit asking my little darling for help as all I would ever get was the one finger solute..I must be number one in her book......;D
 
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jghflys

jghflys

Jr. Member
Joined
Mar 15, 2007
Messages
117
1971 Bronco Build - Big Parts Back In

Last weekend we got to re-install the cage, the shifter, and the seats and belts. I love putting in the big parts, it looks like a lot of progress. It was cold in the shop but my bride still helped. The picture of the black plate with the gray plate on top show a change I made to the plates I'll use for the frame tie in. On Powerblock Xtreme 4x4 they mentioned that the plate on one side of the sheet metal and the plate on the other side of the sheet metal should be different sizes to prevent a shearing action that can crack the sheet metal. I had taken time to make sure the plates were the same size. It was the wrong thing to do so I changed it. The shifter I built for the NP-435 works great. The seats are Hunsaker and look pretty good for the price. I'll clean up the dash wiring when the truck runs and I've checked all the connections. In case you are wondering, the cross over pipe from the turbo is temporary until I run the truck. I'll route it around the engine to provide more hood clearance. Still haven't started the truck.

James
 

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jghflys

jghflys

Jr. Member
Joined
Mar 15, 2007
Messages
117
1971 Bronco Build - Fuel Guage Problem Solved

The fuel gauge showed about one quarter of a tank with the tank completely empty. I had installed a new tank and sender. When I checked the sender resistance from the dash it read about 50 ohms. The sender range is 10 to 70 ohms from full to empty. It had to be sender. I removed the sender from the tank and when I moved it it showed the 10 to 70 ohm range. This meant that the sender was sitting on the bottom of the tank before getting to 70 ohms. After moving float rod to get more travel I saw another problem. The spring the holds the float on the wire was holding the float off the bottom of the tank about a quarter of an inch. See the attached picture. I cut the wire off and the gage now reads empty as it should.

James
 

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76MaBronco

Bronco Guru
Joined
May 21, 2007
Messages
4,209
Excellent work...Very professional install work and it shows...I can only wish I do the same quality when I get a chance to work on mine again (someday).

Good job kickin' the cancer too...
 

Flintknapper

Sr. Member
Joined
Oct 23, 2007
Messages
582
Loc.
Deep East Texas
The fuel gauge showed about one quarter of a tank with the tank completely empty. I had installed a new tank and sender. When I checked the sender resistance from the dash it read about 50 ohms. The sender range is 10 to 70 ohms from full to empty. It had to be sender. I removed the sender from the tank and when I moved it it showed the 10 to 70 ohm range. This meant that the sender was sitting on the bottom of the tank before getting to 70 ohms. After moving float rod to get more travel I saw another problem. The spring the holds the float on the wire was holding the float off the bottom of the tank about a quarter of an inch. See the attached picture. I cut the wire off and the gage now reads empty as it should.

James


You can "fine tune" the reading on the back of a factory fuel gauge if needed also.

Good looking project.
 

Devin

Bronco Kineticist
Joined
Apr 29, 2004
Messages
3,957
Great job. Can't believe I missed this thread. Very nice work.
 
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jghflys

jghflys

Jr. Member
Joined
Mar 15, 2007
Messages
117
1971 Bronco Build - Tie Rod Over

After I heard about a guy on 4BTswaps.com that lost control of his newly rebuilt Bronco on it's maiden run, I checked the front end on mine. I found the drag link joint badly worn and the tie rod ends loose. All new quality (Moog) parts were about $400 dollars. I decided to go with Complete Off Road Chevy tie rod over kit for extra clearance and strength. I had to move the track bar mount to clear the new tie rod so I decided to build a riser and remove the track bar drop mount. The reaming for the rod ends went slowly but the results are good. I tested for bump steer by lifting the front end with a jack and dropping it. The steering wheel had some movement so I know there is some bump steer. My next step will be to change the drop Pittman arm for the original straight one. That should correct the difference between the drag link and track bar angles.

James
 

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bax

Contributor
Old Member
Joined
Aug 22, 2005
Messages
14,027
Good work, and yes putting the stock pittman arm back on should fix the bump steer.
 

sprdv1

Contributor
REBEL
Joined
Mar 8, 2007
Messages
79,591
Excellent. Looks great. ;)

James, you remember the footage on the tubing for your roll cage?
 
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jghflys

jghflys

Jr. Member
Joined
Mar 15, 2007
Messages
117
James, you remember the footage on the tubing for your roll cage?

I used about 4 lengths of 1.75X.120, 2 lengths of 1.5X.120, and 1 length of 1X.120 and had partial lengths of each size left over.

Exact amounts for the cage were:
70' of 175X.120
25' of 1.5X.120
5' of 1.0X.120

The amounts do not include a couple of errors.

James
 
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sprdv1

Contributor
REBEL
Joined
Mar 8, 2007
Messages
79,591
Sorry brother, I meant total footage "length" ie.. 125' of 1.75 x .120

Thinkin of buying tube locally & having a buddy bend/weld it up for me.

Cheap Labor ;D
 
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jghflys

jghflys

Jr. Member
Joined
Mar 15, 2007
Messages
117
1971 Bronco Rebuild - Installed Windshield

Installed the new windshield last weekend. Not too hard.

James
 

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jghflys

jghflys

Jr. Member
Joined
Mar 15, 2007
Messages
117
1971 Bronco Build - Start and Short Drive Video

Click the link. Fixed a couple of coolant leaks. Drove around the neighborhood for about 10 minutes and the cooling fan didn't even come on!
This thing runs cool!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BJE-oDoya14

James
 
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