1975 Ford 302 V8 Distributor not Installing?

[MerganserMaster]

I had to remove the distributor (for a different issue) and when I am trying to re-install it goes down almost all the way but stops short of the o-ring. I think it is due to the oil pump drive shaft being unseated but I cannot tell by looking at it. I have tried to move it around with a little grabby thing (a long, bendy shaft with a claw on the end that is controlled by a push-button). Any advice on how to make sure the oil drive shaft is seated correctly? Could it be something else that is impeding the process? Thanks.

https://flic.kr/p/2pjBUVo

 

[blade]

You could try turning the oil pump shaft with a rachet to see how it feels, it should have some resistance. That may also allow you to put it back in place if it is out. Just be careful because it can drop into the pan if you move it over too far.

 

[DirtDonk]

Have you tried turning the rotor shaft to see if you can align it with the pump shaft?
Could you tell whether the gears had started to engage yet or not?
If the gears are engaging, simply turn the crankshaft slightly and see if it helps align things. Obviously, you want to keep track of where you started and where you’re gonna end up. But within a minimal range any timing discrepancies can still be adjusted out by spending the distributor.
After it’s installed.

 

[jamesroney]

Yes, it is due to the oil pump drive. It has nothing to do with seating. The hex shaft of the drive is not aligned with the hex "socket" on the distributor shaft. Perfectly normal.

Seating implies that you have something "sitting" on something. You have an engagement issue. Not a seating issue.

The later Ford distributor has an extended length "socket" on the distributor to prevent this issue. Yours doesn't have that feature.

 

[nvrstuk]

Put a socket on the oil pump shaft and spin it with a drill like we all do to prime a new engine. When you get resistance and oil pressure on you gauge (or pull a valve cover to see oil flowing) then you can be 100% reassured that the shaft is in place since you have tried pulling the shaft out. Then you don't have any concerns at all.

Then set your distributor back in but rotate the distributor appr 20deg so the teeth engage and the end of the dist slips over the oil pump shaft. Look for a video on youtube

 

[jamesroney]

Curious to know how you timed it? Is the damper at TDC, or are you just putting it back "where it came out..."

About 80% of the time, on a SBF...I have to spin the camshaft to get the distributor to drop in. You can easily spin the camshaft by cranking the starter. (but you will lose TDC.) So you want to know where you are before you start turning anything.

 

[73azbronco]

Like nvrstuk, turn the pump shaft a touch, then try again. Might have to put a breaker bar on balancer and turn crank a touch while doing this. You will lose TDC, be careful.

 

[MerganserMaster]

Put a socket on the oil pump shaft and spin it with a drill like we all do to prime a new engine. When you get resistance and oil pressure on you gauge (or pull a valve cover to see oil flowing) then you can be 100% reassured that the shaft is in place since you have tried pulling the shaft out. Then you don't have any concerns at all.

Then set your distributor back in but rotate the distributor appr 20deg so the teeth engage and the end of the dist slips over the oil pump shaft. Look for a video on youtube

This sounds like what I might do, as I would prefer to keep it in TDC. Any idea what size socket I should use? I will probably try to use tape and a good extension to make sure the "jig" does not come apart so I dont have to fish stuff out of the oil pan with a magnet.

 

[nvrstuk]

Correct, I use duct tape.

 

[73azbronco]

really good duct tape, gorrila or t-rex, not that cheapy ace brand duct tape

 

[DirtDonk]

Or a nut driver with the socket end permanently installed.
Some drivers are part of kit, so no different than just using an extension. If you have nut drivers that are complete from handle to wrench though, that’ll work.
As long as it’s long enough.

 

[Oldtimer]

Any idea what size socket I should use?

Socket should match hex in end of distributor shaft.
Use Allen wrench to determine size.

 

[nvrstuk]

Gorilla tape-same stuff I use inside my inner beadlocks.

 

[m_m70]

About 80% of the time, on a SBF...I have to spin the camshaft to get the distributor to drop in. You can easily spin the camshaft by cranking the starter. (but you will lose TDC.) So you want to know where you are before you start turning anything.

How I've always done it...........^^^^^^^^^^^

 

[Ratclge]

Bump the engine over while someone holds the distributor down in the gear it will drop in, take off the rotor button to save ur hand.

 

[MerganserMaster]

Put a socket on the oil pump shaft and spin it with a drill like we all do to prime a new engine. When you get resistance and oil pressure on you gauge (or pull a valve cover to see oil flowing) then you can be 100% reassured that the shaft is in place since you have tried pulling the shaft out. Then you don't have any concerns at all.

Then set your distributor back in but rotate the distributor appr 20deg so the teeth engage and the end of the dist slips over the oil pump shaft. Look for a video on youtube

This method worked for me, I wasn't able to turn it but the socket was similar enough to corresponding part on the distributor that it was able to knock the oil pump shaft into its place, and the distributor slid in fine afterwards. Big thanks!

 

[nvrstuk]

Glad you are up and on your way!

 

[fire26]

Not sure if you were able to install the distributor yet but if not this was my solution.
My retaining washer had dropped down and allowed the oil pump shaft to pull out of the oil pump.
As you know this stopped the distributor from seating all the way in the intake manifold. I did not want to drop the oil pan and tried many, many different ways to reset the shaft in the pump. I found a stupidly simple solution. Using a straw from Mickey D's I slid the straw over the shaft which gave me enough control to raise the shaft and get it into the pump drive. Next usings a long small screwdriver or other rod that fit into the straw held down on the shaft and pulled the straw up off the shaft. DONE!
It does happen and is as simple to fix but very frustrating.

 

[nvrstuk]

Waaay to think outside the box fire26!

 

[DirtDonk]

There’s our next special tool invention!
Two-piece multi sized pump drive shaft extractor tool!
Has to be two sizes for 351 versus 302.
Actually, not sure that the end of the shafts are different, just that I’ve heard that the 351 engine shafts are slightly larger diameter.