1996 Explorer 5.0 Swap – Questions

[bentendo]

Updating with answers as they roll in. Y'all are a huge help, thanks!

NOTE: Complete and running 1996 Explorer 5.0 for the donor vehicle.

Hey y’all, I’m on the verge of doing my own 1996 Explorer swap into my ’72. There is a ton of great info that I’ve been digging into from EFI Guy and others, and have watched his YouTube videos showing how to modify the harness. All that said, it’s still overwhelming, and I’m hoping to get some input from the community:

Resolved issues are yellow
Issues needing more info are red

Wiring harness / ECM

• Is EFI Guy our only source for ECM reprogramming?
• Does anyone have the printed diagrams EFI Guy refers to in the videos?

Drivetrain

• NV3550 should bolt up to the new block, provided I keep my original 302 bellhousing?
  Yes, no problems here
• Will my existing clutch linkage work?
  Yes, with an adapter from Wild Horses https://www.wildhorses4x4.com/product/EFI_Clutch_Equalizer_Conversion_Bracket/Early_Bronco_Clutch
• Keep the flywheel that’s on the Explorer motor?
  All 5.0's were automatics, so replace flexplate with 50oz flywheel with matching bolt pattern. I'll confirm compatibility, then go with this kit from TBP.

Engine accessories

• Is the Explorer alternator good to keep or should I try to re-use my 3G alternator?
  I'll keep the Explorer alternator, and sell my 3G
• Should I keep my Saginaw pump and purchase or fabricate a bracket for it? I'm running 32s with vacuum boosted brakes.
• Does the Explorer motor have a vacuum port to accommodate power boosted brakes?
  Yes. Bottom of the intake manifold on the driver's side, left of the plenum bolts.

Gauge Cluster

• To use stock gauge cluster, I need to modify the harness to eyelet style attachments to connect to the terminals on the backs, right? In the vids, it seems like EFI Guy mods the harness for a cleaner install
  No. You can use your existing harness to connect to the Explorer motor. Just have to use Bronco sending units on Explorer motor so gauges work correctly
• I need to use a VSS from a late 80s Mustang GT, and attach that to my Dana 20 for speedometer?
  No. VSS not needed, unless you have a digital speedo or cruise control that needs the signal.

Fuel System

• Can my aftermarket 23 gallon tank be modified to accept the Explorer in-tank fuel pump? It's from Tom's Bronco Parts
• What’s the best source for fuel plumbing, can I use the Explorer’s lines?
  Sounds like BC Broncos AN fuel line kit is a good option that's ready to just bolt on.
• Pros & Cons of keeping or deleting evap and emission systems? How difficult are they to implement in the swap?
  Mixed. Though it sounds like keeping emissions will result in an overall smoother running EFI system.

General installation questions:

• Who is running the ECM in the engine compartment, and if so, has heat been a problem?
  Mixed. Seems like I've seen the ECM mounted inside the engine compartment, upside-down in the center of the firewall. I've also seen folks lengthen the harness to mount ECM in the cab on the passenger's kick panel. Need more input.
• Will a change in exhaust and mufflers require a re-tune of the ECM, or will it self-learn?
  It shouldn't, provided I don't make any major changes. Currently running long tube headers and dual exhaust from Duff's.
• Is there any structural harm in modifying the crossmember to clear the bottommost pulley?
  Test fit motor. If it doesn't clear, use smaller lower pulley (60 mm idler NAPA #36079) rather than alter crossmember.
• Where will the OBDII port be located when it’s all said and done?
  I have options, and will elect to place it near the steering wheel under the dash.
• Does anyone have a recommendation for a reputable 5.0 rebuild kit? My donor has 185k on the clock
  Sounds like the usual suspects, Summit, Jegs, et al, will all be fine for this.

 

[rjlougee]

Some input:

Is EFIGuy our only source for ECM reprogramming?

Probably not the only, and also not the only option. You can also get a Mustang wiring harness, EEC, etc... and go that route, but probably more time/effort/$$ in the long run. And then you're still dealing with an OBD-1 vs. OBD-2 setup.

Drivetrain
Keep the flywheel that’s on the Explorer motor?

Should be a flexplate on the Explorer, I don't think any came with manual trans and 5.0s?? Needs a 50oz imbalance flywheel with the correct bolt pattern for the 3550 pressure plate/clutch.

Engine accessories

Is the Explorer alternator good to keep or should I try to re-use my 3G alternator?

Explorer alt is good.

Should I keep my Saginaw pump and purchase or fabricate a bracket for it?
I'm running a Howe reworked T/C (fits Explorer bracket) PS pump on mine with full hydro steering and hydroboost brakes. Due to the shorter nature of the Explorer accessory drive, it's hard to get a Saginaw pump in there.

Does the Explorer motor have a vacuum port to accommodate power boosted brakes?
Yes, under the bottom of the upper intake. Should poke out the back just to the drivers side of the plenum bolts.

Can my aftermarket 23 gallon tank be modified to accept the Explorer in-tank fuel pump?
Generally, yes, as long as it has the ability to open up the top. Without knowing exactly which tank/year, too hard to say. The pump is pretty generic, not really needing a Motorcraft specific Explorer pump.

What’s the best source for fuel plumbing, can I use the Explorer’s lines?
I would plan to run all AN fuel lines. I usually go with either natural colored lines with different colored fittings (say red to engine, blue return) or natural and black fuel lines. Just makes it easier looking at stuff later.

Pros & Cons of keeping or deleting evap and emission systems? How difficult are they to implement in the swap?
The EGR system does have some slight benefit to run, but most folks don't. Aside from that, unless you live in CA and have to pass a visual, I wouldn't worry about it. Same thing with the Air mgmt stuff, unless you're running the cats like stock, don't bother.


General installation questions:

Who is running the ECM in the engine compartment, and if so, has heat been a problem?
Not I. I always run it inside the vehicle.

Will a change in exhaust and mufflers require a re-tune of the ECM, or will it self-learn?
It will self learn within reason. As long as it's not a huge change. A reflash/tune does help it get to a better starting position to learn.

Is there any structural harm in modifying the crossmember to clear the bottommost pulley?
Not really, as long as it maintains enough rigidity. I cut the top half of one of mine off to put an EFI 4.9 inline six cylinder. A little bracing, s'all good.

Where will the OBDII port be located when it’s all said and done?
IDK.

Does anyone have a recommendation for a reputable 5.0 rebuild kit? My donor has 185k on the clock
Too many to list: Summit Racing, Jegs, Speedway Motors, etc... Coast Hi-Perfmance, and a bunch of other places. Goota make calls and see who you like talking to.
HTH, Joe

 

[JKH67302]

I'll be following your thread some as well as I'm doing the same swap right now and have some similar questions.

As for the rebuild kit, I used Northern Auto Parts for my 68 motor. Great prices and good name brand stuff. You can also do some personalizing/upgrading of the kit to meet your needs.

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[Slednut10]

No need to modify the crossmember. A smaller pulley works fine. 60 mm idler NAPA #36079.

 

[904Bronco]

Responses in your message...

Hey y’all, I’m on the verge of doing my own 1996 Explorer swap into my ’72. There is a ton of great info that I’ve been digging into from EFI Guy and others, and have watched his YouTube videos showing how to modify the harness. All that said, it’s still overwhelming, and I’m hoping to get some input from the community:

Wiring harness / ECM

• Is EFIGuy our only source for ECM reprogramming? Only one I know of currently...

Drivetrain

• NV3550 should bolt up to the new block, provided I keep my original 302 bellhousing? Yes
• Will my existing clutch linkage work?
  Yes and No, missing bolt hole in Explorer block, you can buy an adapter from various Vendors
• Keep the flywheel that’s on the Explorer motor?
  As said, no it is called a flex plate. Need new 50 oz imbalance flywheel for the Explorer. You Can purchase one for a 92 F150 5.0 with a manual trans

Engine accessories

• Is the Explorer alternator good to keep or should I try to re-use my 3G alternator? Yes it is good!
• Should I keep my Saginaw pump and purchase or fabricate a bracket for it? Depending on tire size... I run the stock Explorer PS pump with 31's and HB.
• Does the Explorer motor have a vacuum port to accommodate power boosted brakes? Yes

Gauge Cluster

• To use stock gauge cluster, I need to modify the harness to eyelet style attachments to connect to the terminals on the backs, right? No. You can use your existing harness to connect to the Explorer motor. Just have to use Bronco sending units on Explorer motor so gauges work correctly
• I need to use a VSS from a late 80s Mustang GT, and attach that to my Dana 20 for speedometer? No. VSS not needed, unless you have a digital speedo or cruise control that needs the signal.

Fuel System

• Can my aftermarket 23 gallon tank be modified to accept the Explorer in-tank fuel pump? Well, as asked what Tank do you have?
• What’s the best source for fuel plumbing, can I use the Explorer’s lines? I have not seen it done, many different ways to run the lines...
• Pros & Cons of keeping or deleting evap and emission systems? How difficult are they to implement in the swap? Most will tell you you don't need them. I am the odd ball that keeps EGR and some form of EVAP. The EGR can be a pain to plumb... EVAP could be removed and just run a vent line to your Charcoal canister.

General installation questions:

• Who is running the ECM in the engine compartment, and if so, has heat been a problem? ECM is not heat/water/dust/dirt proof
• Will a change in exhaust and mufflers require a re-tune of the ECM, or will it self-learn? Exhaust can be dual or two into one. Front O2 sensors are generally kept, Rear O2 sensors are deleted and tuned out in programming the ECU
• Is there any structural harm in modifying the crossmember to clear the bottom most pulley? Test fit the engine, bet you do not have to modify the frame, best to go the smaller 60mm pulley route.
• Where will the OBDII port be located when it’s all said and done? I like it inside under the steering column... That way I can plug in my scanner and see live data going down the road.
• Does anyone have a recommendation for a reputable 5.0 rebuild kit? My donor has 185k on the clock. I don't know your skill level, do you have a local Machine shop in your area?

 

[Tiko433]

Don’t let it overwhelm you. I did this a few years ago. Thanks to this forum plenty of help and guys who been there and done it. I sourced a 97 Mountainer. Running but blown trans. EFI guy is the best start, he worked my harness and reprogrammed my ECU. I can’t say enough about the quality of his work. I kept as much of the stock explorer stuff as I could, power steering pump is nice for street and basic off-road use. I got a EFI Aero Fuel tank and used a stock fuel pump. BC Bronco fuel line kit. Bronco Hut 2-1 exhaust.
Your on the right track make a plan and start rounding up parts. It’s a lot of work but well worth it.

 

[papy]

Following. I am in the process of the exact same swap - some good info here

 

[904Bronco]

Clutch equalizer adapter

Note: I have done some grinding on the brackets and the casting on the block to make sure the bracket fits flush. I also don't like drilling out the threads on the block to accommodate the long bolt. I get a longer grade 8 bolt and extend the threads on it.


https://www.wildhorses4x4.com/product/EFI_Clutch_Equalizer_Conversion_Bracket/Early_Bronco_Clutch


EFI Harness Mods: There are a number of things that can be done... For your specific question, Garry can re use the Explorer wiring for the gauges and have them terminate inside (Including a Tack signal wire). From that point you would have to connect them to the back of the instrument cluster. Generally, I like to run a short pigtail off the gauges to a 3 wire GM weatherpack connector and then tie in the Explorer harness. Less things to unbolt when removing the cluster.


Emissions:
EGR is difficult because of the 90* elbow and where it places the TB. Which means the air inlet comes over the ALT along with TB orientation. It can be overcome. I went the route of using Mustang components on my last build to keep EGR and eliminate the elbow. 96 motors have internally fed EGR vs the later that had external.

EVAP: Garry has added to my last two harness charcoal canister purge valve from a Mustang. That allows me to keep a CC from a Mustang, mount it in the engine compartment like 76-77 Broncos. And I have no gas smells in the garage. All that valve needs is a vacuum source and it opens when you are at cruise. (2000-2200 rpm)

Added Pic: 2001 motor with EGR in my 71

 

[bentendo]

Clutch equalizer adapter
EFI Harness Mods: There are a number of things that can be done... For your specific question, Garry can re use the Explorer wiring for the gauges and have them terminate inside (Including a Tack signal wire). From that point you would have to connect them to the back of the instrument cluster. Generally, I like to run a short pigtail off the gauges to a 3 wire GM weatherpack connector and then tie in the Explorer harness. Less things to unbolt when removing the cluster.

That sounds like a pretty slick way to do it

 

[bsquared]

Here is a diagram for all of the pins for the C-115 connector that the EFI Guy details in his videos. (attached as a PDF) I made it to help me as I re-worked my engine harness for the build. Also a few other pics that might help. I pulled an airbox out of a 2001 Explorer at the bone yard for my air filter / cold air housing. It meant I had to relocate my battery to the drivers side, but it came our real well.

Good luck on your install!!! Bill

 

[bentendo]

Hey y’all, starting to assemble the block after machining. I had EGR deleted from the harness and computer, and I wanted someone to weigh in on the best method for closing off the EGR port from the motor.

- NPT plug in lower intake?
- Delete plate over EGR valve at intake elbow?
- Eliminate intake elbow and let throttle body backside and gasket plug the port?

My concern with plug in lower intake is the possibility of ruining the mating surface between intake upper and lower and causing a leak.

Separate question: if I eliminate the elbow, does the throttle body need a spacer for heat diffusion?


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[rjlougee]

In my opinion, the "best" way would be to get a later model intake that doesn't have the hole in it for the EGR.

I eliminate the elbow on pretty much every Explorer setup I've done, never had an issue with it. But it does change the mounting for the throttle cable, but that's an easy fix as well.
HTH, Joe

 

[bentendo]

Do you use a spacer between the throttle body and the upper intake?


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[rjlougee]

Do you use a spacer between the throttle body and the upper intake?

The only thing I use is the 3/8" or 1/2" spacer that allows the stock Mustang style throttle cable bracket attach in the "normal" position.

Something like this off Ebay:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/254563264171

 

[trailpsycho]

I am removing my non-EGR Upper Intake, often called an Off-Road intake to install ALL of the emissions stuff to pass here in CO. If you need a nice upper, let me know. I already have another one to install. Just offering up a non-EGR one in case you decide to tap and plug the lower.

FWIW, I didnt tap and plug my lower, I used a freeze plug of the appropriate size and a healthy dollop of Si on the top. I think the tap/plug method is superior if you have the lower still uninstalled.

Best of luck!

 

[Vduenas77]

Did you have to modify the aero tank to fit the stock explorer fuel pump?

 

[Jedeka]

Aero sells a tank that is made for the Explorer fuel pump.

 

[bentendo]

Yeah, I modded it, but I don't recommend doing it unless you're a pro-welder. I chased leaks for two days, and finally got some JB Weld Steelstik to close up the seams before I painted. It is nice to use the stock Explorer pump, though. The original from 96 failed not too long after install, and a replacement pump from o'reilly's was 40-50 bucks as I recall. Not too shabby.

 

[1buckeyefan1]

I'm modding my NWMP tank this weekend to work with a drop-in Tanks Inc PA-2 system. I am robbing/using the Explorer regulator though.. hopefully it will all work when i eventually turn the key.

More details here..along with how I ran the fuel lines for my 2001 swap:

https://classicbroncos.com/forums/showthread.php?t=306810

 

[Bronchole]

Following!