351 Questions

[dk5122]

I just pulled a 351 from my Dads old 85 F-150 4x4. The oil pan looks like it will be ok. Rear sump? I would like to know which intake, carb, and cam works best. I have the mass buy long tube jet hots from last year still in the box. ;D Is there a place I can buy a single belt set up for this combo? Water pump has wrong outlet side. I have a 4 core radiator in it now that was great for the 302. I would also like to get a electric fan set up. I know there is conversion kits out there but, do I really need one? Please help me with this.. I am begging for the Bronco Gods to look out for me!!!! ;D

 

[wildbill]

;D ;D ;D You can use all the pullies from the 302 on the 351W and as for carb. a 600 will work. And for cam that is up to you what you want the motor to do I would say go with a Erson RV or TQ they both work good depending on were you want the power. I run Erson in mine and the torque is unreal have also used them in my trucks. If you arnt sure call the cam co. tell them what you have and what you want and they can give you some suggestions on the cam you want good luck. ;D ;D ;D Bill %)

 

[dk5122]

Thanks for responding.. I understand the pullies will fit but I'm looking for a single belt system. Anyone? I'll prob. use the 670 truck carb from holley. Can't decide on a intake. Performer or a Stealth... I would like to get a cam that you can really hear but not hurt the low end of the engine.

 

[dk5122]

As for the cam.... This may help a little.. 411 diff's 36" swampers C4. Later I'll get a different gear ratio... prob somewhere in the mid 4's.. This truck has been in the garage for a year and a half. :-[ Time to get the beast running.

 

[BUCKETOBOLTS]

I ran into kinda the same thing with my 351W swap. I just bought a new 4 core radiator last summer that fit the original 302. When I built my engine I reused the timing cover, water pump, balancer, and pulleys from the 302. That way I didn't have to worry about 3-4 bolt pulleys and not being able to see the timing marks.

As for intakes I'd stick with a dual plane performer style. I bought a M-2650-M50 cam from the '93 Cobra "R". Then topped it off with a 600cfm Holley.

 

[tabascom16]

As far as a cam I have used a Powermax 216/228 in a 351 and an Extreme Energy 218/224 in my 408 now. If you do not want to lose to much low end torque I would not go any higher than this. With a dual exhaust and some Flomaster 40 series the cams still have a nice little sound to them. In a 351 I would maybe recommend one cam less but it won't sound quite as good.

Supposedly in theory you can get a wider cam and shorter lobe separation angle that will sound like a slightly bigger cam than it is but will still have the low end torque of a slightly lower cam with a wider lobe separation angle.

As far as intakes the stealth gets great reviews so I decided to put it on my 408. I had the performer on my old 351 and it still ran good. If you are looking at the performer I have my old one just sitting around if you maybe want to make a deal.

 

[dk5122]

As far as intakes the stealth gets great reviews so I decided to put it on my 408. I had the performer on my old 351 and it still ran good. If you are looking at the performer I have my old one just sitting around if you maybe want to make a deal.

A deal sounds good.. I'll be in WV next month on the 16th for a b-day party.
I was kicking the idea around with a 393 build.. Is the 408 much different?
Depends on what $$$$$ I have for a rebuild.. Not really sure what I'm getting myself into with this." Money wise" Any other tips would be great.. Thanks

 

[tabascom16]

A deal sounds good.. I'll be in WV next month on the 16th for a b-day party.
I was kicking the idea around with a 393 build.. Is the 408 much different?
Depends on what $$$$$ I have for a rebuild.. Not really sure what I'm getting myself into with this." Money wise" Any other tips would be great.. Thanks

The two are practically the same. The 408 just has a slightly longer stroke.
With the right components you can get a slightly better rod ratio with the 408 over the 393 and still not have the pin hole intersect the lower ring groove if that is of concern to you. Both setups should require close to the same amount of extra machining because the journals on the 393 are bigger than on the 408.

If you use stock rods and 302 pistons for a 393 it will save a few bucks but you get into compression ratio problems because the dish sizes on 302 pistons are small.

A quality aftermarket 393 and 408 rotating assembly cost the same. I just happened to find the 408 kit with a better rod ratio that the stock rod 302 piston setup that was in the compression range I wanted.

I am getting gas mileage equivalent to some people with 302's: Around 12 on the highway (this is without overdrive and mountains) and taking it easy around town I can get probably around 9 MPG. The power is there if I want it though!

Where are you going to be in WV on the 16th? The manifold is back home in PA. I'm just down here for school but I could get it here by then. Unless your close it would be better to just ship it to you unless you want to see my Bronco and get a feel if you want to do a 393 or 408 buildup.

Moneywise for me it was probalby slightly over 5k which is cheaper than similar crate engines and I know what components I have in mine.

 

[dk5122]

I'll be around Matinsburg and Inwood... Where are you at in PA? I live 15 mins south-east of Delta, PA.

Did you buy a complete assembly?

 

[tabascom16]

Johntown PA. It's quite a ways from you.

 

[dk5122]

Which headers do you have? What size primaries? Someone on another Ford site was told he should use 2" primaries on his 393..

 

[tabascom16]

I have the standard 1.5" primaries. I think 2" primaries is rediculously large. That wouldn't be good except for an all out race engine. He definately is killing his performance with that. I am using the 1.5" primaries into 2.5" exhaust to keep the low end torque up. I read an article where they test different headers on a Chevy 383. Up to about 3000 RPM the 1.5" primaries kept torque up by about 10 to 20ftlbs with 20 being around 2000RPM. IT was about the same between 3000 and 4000RPM and then then 1 5/8 primaries kept torque up about 10 to 15ftlbs after 4000 RPM.
I havent even had mine over 3700RPM yet and am mostly below 2000 so I stayed with the 1.5" to get the best performance for my usage. You need proper exhaust flow through the primaries to scavenge exhaust from the cylinder. Smaller headers work better for lower RPM's.

 

[dk5122]

Thanks again.. Great info, I'm glad I bought my headers in the mass buy here last year. What you just said I heard from a local engine builder... Almost word for word... ;D

Do you have any info on where you bought your parts ... or kit?

 

[tabascom16]

Thanks again.. Great info, I'm glad I bought my headers in the mass buy here last year. What you just said I heard from a local engine builder... Almost word for word... ;D

Do you have any info on where you bought your parts ... or kit?

I could tell you most components I bought with detail and where I got them.

The rotating assembly and heads came from www.adperformance.com
Great people and unbeatable prices. The only thing the engine builder did not like was the bearings that came with the kit but new ones are only a few bucks anways. I cant remember exaclty what he did not like them. I think it had something to do with tapering bearings rods and journals. Most of the other stuff came from JEGS and SummitRacing.

The only bone I have to pick with JEGS is that they gave me a 302 cam and not a 351 cam. Both work, just have to change the firing order of the plugs which we found out when it would hardly start. There is supposedly issues with premature failure but thats probably at really high RPMs and I hear many guys use the 302 firing order in a 351 with no problems.

Do you live in Bel Air close to DC and Univ. Md?

 

[dk5122]

Prices look great. Did you buy scat over eagle for any reason? Thanks for the link. Now I have to check around and find someone that I can trust to put a stroker together. Any idea what a shop would be to assemble a stroker. I am 1 hour and 15 mins north of DC. Do you know where the Conowingo Dam is? 15-20 mins from Peach Bottom or Delta PA. Thanks, Dan

Bel Air,Maryland Harford County

 

[tabascom16]

The cost to machine the block, completely assemble, and balance I think was about $1300 for me. That also included pushrods so more like $1200. This was done by a very reputable engine builder in my area so you may be able to get it done cheaper.

 

[dk5122]

Do you have any pics of your truck... engine bay.. I would like to see pully setups and other stuff. Thanks, Dan