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4 link, ORI's, narrowed D60w/only 2.5" lift, 5"+WB stretch, 2" floor lower, P/S....,

nvrstuk

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Just a Bronco driver for over 50 yrs!
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4 link, ORI's, narrowed D60w/only 2.5" lift, 8"+WB stretch, 2" floor lower, P/S....,

Started this thread a while back (Nov 2016) on our local Bronco site. Worried about losing the info and always welcome the great ideas/resources of others helping out...so I'll try pasting what I've done so far till now, Aug 2017 and then update as I go...I'll see if this works.

Links listed below are parts of this build. I have updated this page to help locate them easier.
-460 SBF install & link: https://classicbroncos.com/forums/showthread.php?t=296712
-6r80 install, this thread, page 22 post 330
-P/S pump mod's, install & link: https://classicbroncos.com/forums/showthread.php?t=294236
-P/S pump mod's for ram. Link: https://classicbroncos.com/forums/showthread.php?t=294046
-14 bolt rear end install & link: https://classicbroncos.com/forums/showthread.php?t=297561
-Exhaust noise/routing link: https://classicbroncos.com/forums/showthread.php?t=280674
-6r80 trans install with ProCase
-tons of misc like seat heaters, adding qtr panel pcs after lengthening WB
-460SBF disaster caused by Ford Performance verified by Mahle engineers
-460sbf rebuild thanks to Ford Motorsports finish honing the bores incorrectly for the pistons THEY installed. What an expensive cluster at my expense
-6r80 frt pump and shift solenoid replacement
-new desert race style rear tire carrier (get it off the bumper)
-new console w/internal ARB manual switches and manual shift controls for my 6r80
-Terminator X SEFI install, cam synch (no distributor), 36-1 crank sensor, 4 blade throttle body, cowl level enclosure install start up Feb 14, 2024 pg 68 post #1354 (very beginning)

4 LINK-- ORI's--SEAT LOWERING

So I've been collecting parts for a month... and have a long ways to go... RuffStuff 1.25" dia heims, truss for the 9" housing, and adjustable brackets.

After breaking almost everything you possible can in the rear several times because of torque and the skinny pedal I'm doing what I should have done (but was sure I didn't need to) at least 5 yrs ago when the strrroker went in and more like 16 yrs ago when I put in the ZF/203/D20...great gears for ANY wheeling but a lot of torque to twist 31 spline axles, low range gear teeth in the D20, went thru 4 D20 cases...long list including 1.5" dia .3875 wall DOM tubing on my anti-wrap bar...

Anyway, here's an edited, updated major list of what I'm doing as I start one part of the project and find something else to do...this WILL NOT end up being a frame off! lol

-4 link
-relocate rear suspension back 4"
-build new wheel wells...got some larger ones from a Jaromy, should be perfect!
-modify fuel tank (again) since it has to move back 3 1/2"
-remove rear crossmember and fab a different one
-relocate fuel filler (more on this when done and fun at the same time)
-ORI's for suspension- spring, shock, bump stop, limiting strap, hopefully eliminate need for anti-sway bar
-seat lowering- 2" for visibility, easier access with the 40 MTR's and exhaust mounting
-swap NP205 for Atlas 4.3 -no need for 2.84x2.7x4.3 (then effectively double this with TC). Gearing was so low I never used it in Moab and other typical low range friendly spots

-door striker post replacement- both sides are bad, pass side "fell out" 3 summers ago bad! Like on the cement in front of the gas pump! :)

Started with this- 418, 4r70W, KluneV, Atlas,TruHi9 w/35 spline, D44 w/CTM's, ARB's, 37"s, now it's just "hovering" in the shop.

August update: 418, 4r70W, KluneV (w/new 4340 main shaft), TruHi9 installed in new RuffStuff 9" housing w/35spline RCV double spline axles and rear FF, swapping D44 for D60 w/RCV's, NP205, TruHi9 w/RuffStuff housing/14 bolt hubs, RS spindles, ARB, 5.13 R&P, 35 spline RCV FF axles, ORI's, 40"s

AND

up front - totally rebuilt D60 Snofighter 1979 Hi Pinion w/ARB, 5.13's, narrowed 65 1/2 " WMS, RCV axles, Yukon hubs, ORI's

1st pic is last summer in Monument Valley...spent 2wks there after a week of wheeling in Moab with my Bronco buddies from Idaho
2nd pic of hundreds : ) is tear down... fab... install : )

Update 2019- 460sbf install
 

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nvrstuk

nvrstuk

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Here is the beginning of the D60 thread when I was 1st looking at installing it. https://classicbroncos.com/forums/showthread.php?t=275875


Last of the carnage I hope before I build another axle...after Moab in October, I'm hoping to tube the front end, then I'll start on the 4 link...I think most of this started with 6K on the tach, then the dump into 2nd on pavement...then parts started clunking... this was the week after the RoundUp on the beaches in Oregon...

This is a 35 spline ARB...ARB treated me great...been running an ARB in the 9" in the rear since '96. My Dana 44 has had an ARB in it since Feb '87.
 

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nvrstuk

nvrstuk

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Once again, I started this 4 link build thread on our small local site and the project has morphed and it's now 7 months later... after I catch the CB site up to date with my progress it might be easier to follow my posts as these are slightly edited --generally made months ago...



Going with ORI's...was thinking 14" but after reading a bunch and making a couple calls the benefits of going with longer STX ORI's is worth the mounting hassles (I hope). I'm going with 16"s for several reasons...more reservoir capacity, higher upper mount height which greatly benefits anti-sway characteristics
 

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nvrstuk

nvrstuk

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I haven't run the numbers yet but I was hoping to mount my lower links directly under the frame...especially since I'm not going full width. Definitely need some dual triangulation... I put a lot of road miles down so street manners are very important.
 
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nvrstuk

nvrstuk

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Looking for 14 bolt wheel hubs for my 4 link/9" housing with 14 bolt hub-rear end build... doing a ton of ORI research and learning alot from Ben at filthy motorsports...wealth of info...

'73-87 SRW 14 bolt hubs...need 2 of them...found some! Thanks!

I'll put a post on the classified forum also...
 
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nvrstuk

nvrstuk

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Found 2 .. Stout is a good word to describe the toughness these have!
 

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nvrstuk

nvrstuk

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Oooops, I guess it wasn't the end of the carnage before the 4 link... glad it brought us home safely from the 1,000 miles we put on it at Moab and trail running we did last month!!
 

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nvrstuk

nvrstuk

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1 1/4" links and misc brackets from RuffStuff.
Running some pre-preliminary numbers just because!! Using the scientific stringline Excel program for 4 link design... lol
 
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nvrstuk

nvrstuk

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4 link by string line...

1 1/4" links and misc brackets from RuffStuff.
Running some pre-preliminary numbers just because!! Using the scientific stringline Excel program for 4 link design... lol

Big jump...owned this baby for decades.... no turning back soon...
 

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nvrstuk

nvrstuk

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Got my "new" RuffStuff 9" housing FILTHY dirty... I need to clean it up and take another pic... I got it from a guy that used to work there...early style-- more on that later!

I need some 8 lug beadlocks to bolt onto the 14 bolt spindle that was in the earlier pic. The 14 bolt spindle is designed to tolerance fit into RuffStuff's 9" DOM housing. 14 bolt 3/4t brakes, rotor and caliper...all stock stuff for the "20year" plan. I'm seriously liking the dual bearings in the 14 bolt hub...since I've gone thru 4 housings and had axles walk out at SPEED, I can't wait for this upgrade. safety...

Nothing like tapping the brakes and nothing happens, shift down and nothing happens, look in your side mirror and see YOUR ENTIRE TIRE outside the wheel well.!!! CRAP...2x totally outside the wheel well is enough... full floater will eliminate that.
 

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nvrstuk

nvrstuk

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8+ hours grinding/cutting brackets off...I filled the dustpan 3 times... warning, this crap kills lungs!!! Seriously! Had a buddy diagnosed with lung cancer 2 yrs ago and workplace grit, metal dust were major contributors... wear a N95 mask!!

This was one of many sweepings over two days!

Well, I started this 3 month project back in November...it's the last couple days of June now... I took on a LOT more after I found out my "new" to me housing was hurting and so I took on a few more upgrades while waiting for a new one...

Last week I was still cutting and grinding and filling holes in the frame...! WEAR LUNG PROTECTION! I'm an old guy and should have started wearing masks when grinding about 30+ yrs ago!
 

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nvrstuk

nvrstuk

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I filled over 73, yes, seventy-three holes in the frame rails (not rust-actual drilled holes) that were 5/16" or larger between the rear bumper and my t-case!! I filled them all by placing an appropriate dia pc of steel rod in the hole the depth of the frame rail. Then I would weld it in place and grind it smooth...wow, a thank-less job but 73 holes???!!! Seriously??! : )

After I noticed 20, I started counting them up... bored when you're grinding and filling holes all day... lol
 
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nvrstuk

nvrstuk

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Point of no return now!! ;)

Wish I could figure out why the site rotates some pics and not others when posting... oh well...
 

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nvrstuk

nvrstuk

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Pg 1 done...

I will debunk the myth of the Dana 60 weighing close to 600#'s in this thread as I weighed almost every part by hand on two different scales as I got tired of reading all over the internet on how the D60 weighs clear up to 600+ lbs... Since I'm months behind anyway, I might as well weigh a bunch of parts and compare them!!
 
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nvrstuk

nvrstuk

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Next is setting up brackets and 4 link calculator #'s...

Here's a pic from a short while back as I'm determining what is and isn't going to fit! Had this on my work desk top for inspiration!!

I think this screen shot was my last day of work!! :)
 

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nvrstuk

nvrstuk

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While I'm cutting I thought I might as well cut some more!

Got some 14 and 16 ga mild steel for the floors and braces today... picked up some .063" gauge rect tube for bracing...might split it to make it channel and lighten it up. That's what's under the floor now...
 
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nvrstuk

nvrstuk

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Here I cut out the floors under the seats.

3 main reasons-
-easier to see out the windshield
- easier for my wife to climb in
- space for mufflers to quiet the stroker (22" long case will fit here if I can't put them 1) btw the frame rails or 2) outside the frame rails btw the ORI mounts in the rear and the new lowered floor pans)
 

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nvrstuk

nvrstuk

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Floor pans are shaped, formed, and fit great but they aren't permanent till all the work under the floor is done...easier access.

Body mount under the seats had to be moved back for the new floor pans so I made a new floor brace (rect tube) crossing the floor and tied it into a rect tube brace that runs at 90 deg towards the dash directly under the center console mounting area. I will have to mount my seat belts to the lowest edge on the side of the console but don't worry, it will have angle iron mounted to the interior of it and the other half of the angle iron will be bolted down thru the floor into this piece of rect tube that is connected to the full width body brace...eventually the belts will be attached to the seat brackets which are attached to the cage.

Spent days moving linkages and other stuff to get the 205 up against the floor. I had the bottom of the 205 above the frame rail but even with the TruHi 9 and extending the WB 4", the driveline at 10" of droop was at 32degrees...
 

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DirtDonk

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So are you going to make us wait until you've compiled your whole list, then tell us what each piece weighs?
Can't wait...:cry:

Paul
 
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nvrstuk

nvrstuk

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Yup, sorry Paul...I'm scrambling... but I will say that I was surprised by the low numbers on the 60 but I am tacking more crap on to mine so I'm sure the weight is climbing up there!!!! Not going to count all the 1.5" DOM for the track bar and tie rod. I bumped down to 1.25" x .120" DOM for the drag link...

My new RCV axles for both the front and rear should be coming next week so I get to add those in there too!
 
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