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4 link, ORI's, narrowed D60w/only 2.5" lift, 5"+WB stretch, 2" floor lower, P/S....,

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nvrstuk

nvrstuk

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Just a Bronco driver for over 50 yrs!
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Slid it in there... doesn't clear the gas tank... :( What I didn't account for in all my measurements was pinion tilt... I will next time. lol

Pics tomorrow. I ended up having all sorts of small clearance issues. I need to order some new heims. For some reason one of them has ridges on the inside... like a bulge.

Looks like I can cheat some on my lower links and get some clearance. Messes with DS length/angle, ORI angles, etc but until I pull the tank again I think I'll leave it alone.
 
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nvrstuk

nvrstuk

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Pics for tomorrow.

1st pic is the radiused edge of the gas tank/skid plate and the monster d14 bolt diff cover. I remember on the D60 up frt I couldn't run any aftermarket covers due to clearance issues.
 

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nvrstuk

nvrstuk

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Yup... a single ridge tho... looks like the sleeve compressed when the bolt was tightened. It is not from the bolt. Absolutely smooth radiused on both sides of the "ridge", perfectly smooth like it was machined... gone now! Will order replacement heims before it rolls
 
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nvrstuk

nvrstuk

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Debating how to move a fuel line outlet (where it comes thru the frame rail) where the line itself is inside the DS frame rail.

The yellow circled connection just below the frame is what needs rerouting. It was a temp thing that fit the hole then...now it needs to be done right and moved up to the inboard side of the frame rail.

I think I just cut a gaping 2" dia hole in the side of the frame, run my line out, then weld it up with a diamond shaped patch with an appr 1" circle/hole in the center where the line would exit the frame? Right now it exits on the bottom of the frame rail through an oblong shaped hole with a rubber grommet surrounding it.

The frame is reinforced quite heavily on the outside with 5/16" plate along the outer side of the frame rail since the strut mounts there. Not gonna buckle...
 

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nvrstuk

nvrstuk

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Anybody know how to add a few words to the title of this post? I want to add the 460SBF build and the 14 bolt I'm currently working on to the original title.

thanks
 

mattyq17

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I think you go to your first post, click edit, and then advanced or something like that to change the title name. Keep up the good work I love reading and looking at what you are doing.
 
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nvrstuk

nvrstuk

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Numbers and a pic

-rear pinion sits at 14deg at ride ht
- rear DS at full droop pinion at 17deg
Atlas flange at ride ht 6.5deg
-rear DS sits at 31deg at full 16" droop
-rear DS is 32 3/4" long

Front WMS is 65 1/2"
Rear currently w/o spacers is 64 1/4"

Pinion angle changes 6 degrees in 16" of straight up and down travel. Not sure how you could do that with leaf springs.
 

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nvrstuk

nvrstuk

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Thanks! Looking forward to a trouble free rear end (getting a bit personal here). lol

My current 1350 flanged rear DS will be moved to the front and lengthened a couple inches. The all new rear I wanted was a 1410 but I can't get the angles I need with it. Max 28 degrees unless I go with the new improved almost a grand 1410...ain't doing that!! lol

1st pic shows why I deal with these guys for 25 yrs. $75 to lengthen and rebalamce since they built this one... thanks Tom Woods in Ogden Utsh

99% of the rear end welding is done. Inside the upper truss a small 3" angle brace on each side and 2- 2" angle braces behind the upper 4 link bracket and that is all that's left on the rear.

Tomorrow I'll try to get to the rear motor mount. If I can get that mocked up (see how many interruptions I get) I'll feel good. This isn't like my last build where I never took a break... almost like I have a life going on too. :)

Zero turn mower is working again. lol
 

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nvrstuk

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Thanks Mattyq17-

I tried that on my title but no luck. Site says I'm not authorized ... ?? lol
 
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nvrstuk

nvrstuk

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Didn't start till 10 and by 1:30 I had the rear crossmember pc shaped and ready for bracing inside each bend. I didn't get back to it till 7:30 and I have the frame brackets cut and ready for welding. Will cut some poly for mounts at whatevery thickness fits best and tack them in.

Hope to pull the trans tomorrow, chamfer the edge of the TC button adapter that fits in the end of the crank that I had problems with last week and hopefully I can get it to fit. Then the trans wiring and 100 misc things while waiting for driveshafts.

TIGHT fit around the Atlas flange...

Was thinking how nice a hydraulic brake would have been...I'm pretty "old skool"... torch, keep it flat w/o twisting and I'm good. I put gussets in every bend. 1/2" x 2 1/2" flat stock. Isn't 2" that doesn't have a gusset (except where it bolts flat against the Atlas. I've used this heavy flat bar w/gussets this way now for 3 strokers and so far so good.
 

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nvrstuk

nvrstuk

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When installing a 6r80 behind a SBF an adapter is needed. It is appr 3/4" thick and therefore the TC snout doesn't fit into the crank SO Perf Auto's adapter kit has a bushing that fits in the crank and the TC snout is supposed to fit in it.... well, after I clearanced it it fits HOWEVER I am about 90% sure the TC is bottoming out in the button.

Perf Auto has recommended to some to not use this bushing which means the TC will be riding on the 4 bolts that attach it to the flex plate... long term issues? I've never thought of not ever having the TC button unsupported...

I know it rotates on the input shaft of the trans but even in a stock engine the support has to be a good thing... I am cranking out a ton of torque and HP and am a bit concerned about long term dependability...
 

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nvrstuk

nvrstuk

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I took about 25 measurements tonight, did the grease plunger trick we all do(checking for interference) and I either:

- grind off up to .125" from the nose of the snout (back side is tapered so the button diameter will lessen if I grind more off and hope that's enough when I tighten the flex plate to TC studs/nuts that the TC won't draw up to far and bottom out against the crank

OR

- add btw .375" to .500" to the button so it will enter the crank like a typical setup. Cost for this machining a pc, welding it on, lathe to center it on the TC... ka-ching.
 
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nvrstuk

nvrstuk

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Gotta love adapters that sound good till one tries fitting them and realize then that you could have cut them out with your torch and they would have fit better... lol

Pulling this trans 4x today by myself wasnt a ton of fun.

The converter slides back off the flexplate almost .125". There kit uses studs instead of bolts so you have to align the two-- trans and flexplate like you were sending a module into orbit. All 4 studs push through the converter holes before the block dowel pins even touch and since you have to clearance the holes in the flexplate to fit the 6r80 converter mine are a "press thru the converter" fit... didn't want any slop or daylight between the studs and the flexplate. You can hear each thread on the hardened studs going click-click as it pushes thru the converter so that makes install a little harder. Guess I could open them up .001" or so.

Tight fit.
 
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.94 OR

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I'm no expert, but what you have in front and behind what looks like a dainty connection would concern me.
 
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nvrstuk

nvrstuk

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The two pcs- crank and snout, rotate together in the same plane w/o any load unless there is a misalignment issue.

...but that still doesn't convince me that using only 2 of the 3 "locating and centering" systems that all automotive manufacturers use and the TC that normally relies on... I agree that using all 3 is a good thing.

One is the trans input shaft for centering the TC

Second one is the 4 converter bolts

3- one is the snout/button that slides into the crank.


I contacted a buddy who has installed a couple 6r80's and he has added an additional 1/2" added to the snout...

So I think I am going to take off .125" off the snout :) (can always add it back later) and see if it will not bottom out in the bushing they supply. My measurements as close as I could get show it should clear by .030" or so... dependent on the amount the TC slides forward when I tighten it to the flexplate which I can't measure but is 1 1/2 threads... what a cluster. lol
 
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nvrstuk

nvrstuk

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More beef... I've torn housings so I'm spreading the load...

I'm going to add a small gusset in between the heim ends to help secure the lower plate (bolted to the bottom of the heims) to the 4 link bracket. I have room...
 

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nvrstuk

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Really? I mean who doesn't check to see if the seal fits the shaft before installing it... Remember I didn't set this 14 bolt up as I was using my one shoulder as an excuse and thought I'd pay and have it done right. Hopefully won't let someone do that again... :(

You can see I stuffed .060" worth of feeler guages in just for ...
 

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