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427 Stroker

rcmbronc

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I have been in the process of doing research on a 408 stroker motor. Have a late roller block and looking at parts. Now thinking about a 427 stroker. Not much more money really.

Thinking a Dart SHP block with a 4.0 stroke x 4.125 bore assembly.

Anyone built one who did not like it and would have preferred a 408? I doubt it but checking. I have read and re read the stroker post and no one seemed to have regrets but checking again. Seems like a lot of power for a small Bronco but better too much than not enough.

Not sure the best induction yet. Edelbrock Pro Flo 4 EFI, FAST EFI system or a custom carb.
 

markw

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Glad you asked the question I'm curious as well.
 

nvrstuk

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There will be some good input here I'll bet. :)

With all the comments you'll get the old saying holds true: "there's no replacement for displacement"...

IF you can afford it definitely go with the aftermarket block. Several reasons why it is by FAR the best choice...course you are talking about a $3,000 additional cost to a stock 351W roller block so they'd better have some benefits!

Much stronger block

Much more steel around each cylinder (look at the outside of the block and notice the bulges from the castings whereas the stock block is smooth on the outside). More steel, more heat transfer, stronger- all good

- main brg web areas are stronger (meets the "stronger block category-many examples of areas within the block that are stronger but I won't name the areas I know of)

Smaller main journals- much more important than many think. Less heat build up from the oil/brg surfaces...makes a HUGE difference when turning high rpms for extended periods

- HUGE difference- within the past 10 yrs or so it's becoming evident that the stock 351W blocks have cracking issues btw the #2 cam bearing casting and the valley...always pull the brg out and check for any crack before buying or building.

ALL aftermarket block strokers cool easily...I've been doing very informal survey's at every Bronco event I go to and I have never found one aftermarket block 400+ stroker with cooling problems (unless they have really "tried" to have cooling issues (no shroud, smaller than stock or 15 year old crusty radiator, etc).... whereas many 400+ cube strokers based on production blocks at times or all the time have cooling issues... this is where all the extra steel and different water jacket design is superior in this area also... example: my buddy's 454 SBF cools easily with a 12" electric fan! No joke! he has 2 (one in front and one in back) but might need both 1x/year.... (we have many 90-95 & 100F days.)

Dart and World Products seem to be the leaders in SBF aftermarket blocks for 400+ inch strokers.

I built a 418 based on a production 96 roller block. IF I could have afforded an extra $2800 8 yrs ago when I built mine I would have gone aftermarket block. I had spec'd out a 427 for several years in advance but when I was ready to buy a crank I could not find one in the USA...Seriously, they were out of production at the time :( I couldn't believe it so I built my 418. Less clearancing on the block, etc...but I wanted a 427.

No reason to not run more cubes...2 years before I built mine I spec'd out a WP 454 SBF in my buddy's Bronco...still running great. I would have loved those cubes but $$$$$$$$$$$$.

You will never look back and wish you had less HP...there are many times when spinning my 40"s for several minutes at a time above 5,000 rpm that I wish I had more power...just last week in deep snow for over 2 miles at appr 15% incline in 24" heavy wet snow... Yes, 2 miles at that min incline the entire time at 4800-5400 rpm... supposed to go again Saturday.

Have fun, build it...

Hard core off road = EFI I run Moates tune based on Ford SEFI but there's other options but not for my type of wheeling.

Street and trails but no severe off road angles (for big strokers) = Quadrajet (no other carb out there can do what it does for street and trails. My buddy's 454 never hesitates with his 800 Qjet but he doesn't do Moab, Rubicon, Fordyce, etc... my disclaimer for the Qjet with 400+ inch stroker is the fuel demands...I tried for several years to dial my Qjet in for the same performance I got from it with it in my 351W... but I couldn't.
I could crawl almost on my side OR I could shift at 6K in second gear and twist off rear end parts but I couldn't do both...either/or with the Qjet on the stroker
 
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rcmbronc

rcmbronc

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Pretty much what I was thinking. You can get the Dart block for around $2000 so once you look at the almost $1000 machining cost in a stock block it is not hard to decide. Then once the Dart block no real reason to not do a 4.0 stroke 427.

Now I need to decide on my rotating assembly. Looking at a Scat assembly and also a complete un assembled short block from Ohio Crankshaft. Also looking at Lunati and Eagle kits. Was going to buy a complete short block from Shafiroff but little too much money.
 

Broncobowsher

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Last I checked that Dart block still need finish machining. It is rough bored, but still needs a final hone to match the cylinders.

I think the biggest reason people avoid the 427 (4.125" bore) is the cost of the block. That is a lot of money for only 19 little cubes. I have no doubt that the Dart block is a better block. The extra bore will help unshroud the heads so they can breath better as well. But for 99+% of the people doing a 408 the jump in power is already to the point that the 427 will not be noticed, the stock 351 block is more affordable and the money can be used somewhere else, and for the power levels we typically put into a Bronco the production block is generally strong enough.
 

68ford

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Dec 26, 2004
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I just had a 438 built and as I agree with the post above about stock block being more than enough for most, mine is going in a race truck so it was a no brainier to go aftermarket. I went with a 4.100 crank which only made it 11 cubes bigger, I picked up 25 foot pounds. I have read over and over the large bore helps with valve shrouding, but if you're not running big heads making big power, that's likely irrelevant. I would have loved to make mine a clevor with Cleveland heads which all the race gys do, but I only have literally 1/4 in all around the engine. I ran the ford Motorsports block which my engine builder stated was much cleaner finish casting than dart and he really liked it. Also has screw in freeze plugs. Block will clear a 4.250 stroke crank if you want rediculous torque. Not sure if a stock block will take that crank. Or if a 4.250 crank is available in stock main bearing size. The aftermarket blocks all use Cleveland main bearings.
 

Broncobowsher

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It's been a long time, but I remember that some blocks take the 351W bearings, and some take the 351C bearings. Real racers looking for every last bit of HP, and don't mind frequent rebuilding will get the 351C bearing size. Less drag so more HP, but faster wear. Typical race car build is to design to last 2X the distance of the race. I remember once a discussion with a race engine builder that if the bearings don't come back at the end of the race wore out and trashed, you have too much bearing and too much drag. Need smaller bearings.

But if you want stuff to last, big bearings. I don't mind loosing a HP or two for it to last forever. I like big bearings.
 

Local Boy

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Mililani, Hawaii
Go for it!

Welcome to the Monsters club!

I agree with the posts above...

Just some things to consider:

* Make sure it will run cool all day long.... Because if it over heats in an hour of running or when you step on it...it's no good!
* These motors need to breath.... Don't waste your money going with a 427 if you plan on using off the shelf headers... It will choke the sh$t out of it... 1 5/8 primaries are too small...
* These motors with EFI need large injectors for adequate fueling...look for an engine management system that has very strong injector drivers or you will not be able to obtain a good low idle condition.
* Think of supporting your rear end with some type of traction bars...do not rely on your suspension to hold your rear end in place when you hammer it...

Good Luck!

Aloha...
 

bmc69

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There is a new aluminum Cleveland block available that supports up to about 466 cubic inches. Nice and light..600+ ft-lbs..even 700... ;-)

For those that really want to break stuff...
 

bronkenn

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Man I couldn't imagine that much power in a short wheel base Bronco. About 20 years ago I built a 434 stroker for my Camaro and that thing dyno'd at 620 HP and 600 ft lbs of torque. It's a handful in that car. That would be crazy fast in a Bronco. Ken P.S. It would be fun though!
 

nvrstuk

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I think a good follow up post would be for all the Stroker owners to post up what rmcbronc will twist up with a stroker... :)
 

JB Fab

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With any luck this one will be on the engine dyno for tuning in about 6 weeks...
 

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Apogee

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With any luck this one will be on the engine dyno for tuning in about 6 weeks...

I've seen you big-pimpin' that picture of the twin-turbo engine...what are the specs? It makes me think of Ken Block's Hoonitruck, but in an EB. :cool:
 

JB Fab

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I've seen you big-pimpin' that picture of the twin-turbo engine...what are the specs? It makes me think of Ken Block's Hoonitruck, but in an EB. :cool:

I guess I need to start a build thread....
 

Broncobowsher

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I've seen you big-pimpin' that picture of the twin-turbo engine...what are the specs? It makes me think of Ken Block's Hoonitruck, but in an EB. :cool:

I remember seeing the Hoonitruck at SEMA. Actually disappointing. Good quality work, but really just a skin over a tube chassis. Barely a skin at that. Looks great in photos, but even at SEMA it was kicked to the curb and parked outside. The Mustang is so much more finished and polished. Up close it looks complete and not just a skin hanging on a jungle gym. I know, they are both custom built chassis and drivetrain, the Mustang is so much better then the truck.
 
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rcmbronc

rcmbronc

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Great to hear. I ordered my short block today so here we go. Forged crank H beam rods forged pistons. Dart SHP block. Wallet hurts but really excited. Ohio crank is doing the short block unassembled. AFR 205 heads I already have.

Big decision will he induction. Not sure the Edelbrock Pro Flo 4 can support this type of engine. If not then probably a custom carb. Not sure.
 
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rcmbronc

rcmbronc

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Breaking stuff will definitely happen. I have a 4 link in the rear with a floater rear end. I am sure I will need to replace the TC. Not sure about the 4R70W. Dana 44 also could be in trouble
 
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