5.0

[KRAWLER]

Engine Troubles

I installed a 5.0 in my Bronco a few years back. Half way into the project i decided to eliminate the EFI and make it a carb motor. The motor ran fine for some time. It is now a psychotic motor like the timing jumps ever rotation. So bad that no one locally will work on it. It will not idle correctly, when wheeling or highway driving you always have to keep the foot on the gas. It is the weak spot of the machine. Now I want it fixed. I need help,

1. Can you make a 5.0 a carb motor?
2. I live near Bristol VA, who can work the bug out?
3. Would love the fuel injection, i have most of the components, who do you recommend?

What do you guys/gals recommend I do?

Thanks;D

 

[54ford]

I think there is a difference between distributors .

 

[getfuzzy]

I ran a 1990 Mustang GT 5.0 with a carb for years in my 65 Ranchero with no problems.The Dist. needs the right gear or it will eat itself. What carb and so on is on the motor now?

 

[broncnaz]

X2 on the dizzy gear if you didnt install a steel gear on the dizzy its probably worn out. Converting a EFI engine to a carb is not a issue as long as the correct parts are used plently of peope have done it without issue.

 

[Pedestrian]

I vote distributor gear mismatch as well.

 

[KRAWLER]

I bought a generic HEI for a 302. What is the recommeded distrubitor for this application?

 

[ransil]

1985 Mustang 5.0L with 5 speed

 

[KRAWLER]

Sweet thanks, I'll give it a try.

 

[Broncobowsher]

If the distributor gear has already self destructed, it will have killed the gear on the cam as well. Expect to need a new cam to go with that distributer.

To keep the snowball rolling, the oil pump would have ate a bunch of metal shavings. Hopefully the filter took them out. I would also expect to at least drop the pan and pull the cover off the oil pump for a look and drop a couple of bearing caps to check for excessive damage. Good chance the bottom end will be good but woth a look. Since the engine has to come out to change cams (cam will not clear the grill) it isn't a big deal to drop the pan and look for what is left of the distributer and cam gears, the pump and bearings. If all is good, you are only out a pan gasket (which you need for the timing cover change anyway). If things are bad, you know it now.

 

[G's Baja Bronco]

x10 on the distributor gear, 85 and newer HO engines (5.0) ran a steel roller cam, you need the steel gear on the distributor. is should be easy to swap the gear, but your cam might be already damaged.

edited brass to steel, my mistake. I thought it had to be brass, now I feel stupid

 

[KRAWLER]

Hmmm, brass gear.

Ok, let me explain it this way.

When it idles, it will idle up and down, up and down, up and down. As soon as you pull into drive you have to mash the gas or it will just die.

 

[G's Baja Bronco]

can you take the distributor cover off, grab the rotor and see if it has any slop?

 

[needabronco]

A brass gear will wear out quickly also. Either buy a new steel gear, or get a new reman dizzy with the steel gear already on. That's the route I went after discovering the reman dizzy's were'nt much more than a new gear...

 

[Classic69Bronco]

Is there any up and down play on the dizzy? If there is, your bushings on the shaft are worn, causing your timing to advance and retard with accel and decell.

 

[KRAWLER]

Cover off. Play side to side on the button but that seems connected the the vacuum advance and spring mechanism in the distributor (HEI)

 

[Classic69Bronco]

If you have side to side, more than likely gonna have up and down. Its gonna be hard to tell, unless you remove the dist.

 

[G's Baja Bronco]

just for the fun of it, do you have a vaccum brake booster? how if the hose going to the intake?

I am wondering if when you put it on gear a hidden crack on the hose opens up.

worth a shoot.

 

[EricLar80]

Cover off. Play side to side on the button but that seems connected the the vacuum advance and spring mechanism in the distributor (HEI)

All you need to do it take the cover off and try to spin the rotor back and fouth. If it moves more than just a fraction of an inch, then that is your problem. You should also take the distributor out and just look at the teeth on the brass gear, they will get paper thin and it will screw with your timing big time.

If you have a brass gear, and a roller cam (steel gear), I guarantee that is your problem. And if it isn't, just give it a little more time. Ask me how I know... %)

However, your steel gear will be fine because it is such a hard material in comparison, so don't worry about the cam. Just change your oil (now!) and hope that you didn't get brass shavings all over the place in your motor.

Eric

 

[englewoodcowboy]

Just saying hey to a fellow EB and another SW VA. I live in Chilhowie, if you ever need a hand and I am free, would love to help.