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Adjusting sleeve in upper D44 ball joint appears seized!

Broncojim

Newbie
Joined
Jul 3, 2007
Messages
8
My son came over this weekend to lend a hand on the F150 knuckle update to my 71 Bronco and we were able to remove the knuckle on the driver's side without a problem. However, when we started on the passenger side we hit a big problem. I cannot remove the threaded 'nut' (sleeve) that provides the preload to the top ball joint. I started with a ratchet and eventually used my impact on the tool and it is so tight my OTC tool actually started elongating the slots in the 'nut'. Please see the two attached photos. Has anyone ever seen anything like this happen before?

I had soaked the joint in WD40 but it did not phase it. The only tell-tale sign was that after I removed the top castle nut I noticed that there was a small piece in one of the slots which was a broken off piece of a previous 4-prong tool. At the time I didn't think much about it but now I am thinking that the previous owner may have changed the ball joints in the driver's side and hit the same problem I did on the passenger side and never changed them.

Any ideas what I might try to free up the preload 'nut' which is stuck in the top yoke (not sure what to call it) of the center D44 assembly? At this point the only thing I have thought of is to heat the yoke portion with a torch to try and expand it and then hit the nut with my impact.

Do you think it would accomplish anything to attempt to cut off the ball joint through the boot area?

I am out of any good ideas and would welcome suggestions.
Thanks!
 
OP
OP
B

Broncojim

Newbie
Joined
Jul 3, 2007
Messages
8
Here are the two photos mentioned above!
 

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garberz

Bronco Influencer
Joined
Jun 24, 2007
Messages
6,856
Loc.
Conejo Valley, Ca.
You don’t need to loosen that sleeve to remove the entire knuckle. Thread the upper nut back on the ball-joint, and hit it with a sizable sledge. Driving it straight down, it should drop out with a couple of whacks. Once removed, then the adjuster sleeve should be much easier to remove. The taper of the ball-joint stud is locking the sleeve to the yoke. The sleeve expands as the knuckle is torqued into position.

Mark
 

Rustytruck

Bronco Guru
Joined
Feb 24, 2002
Messages
10,875
When I get into troubles like this I heat with a torch and cool with PB Blaster. Warning high risk of fire as PB Blaster is flammable in both the contents and the pressure gas. so be prepared. I do this several times before I try to force the issue as I want tools and parts in proper condition to give it best effort. I don't want to be working with rounded worn off parts. the thermal shock tends to get in and loosed it all up. still tough going though.
 
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OP
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Broncojim

Newbie
Joined
Jul 3, 2007
Messages
8
You don’t need to loosen that sleeve to remove the entire knuckle. Thread the upper nut back on the ball-joint, and hit it with a sizable sledge. Driving it straight down, it should drop out with a couple of whacks. Once removed, then the adjuster sleeve should be much easier to remove. The taper of the ball-joint stud is locking the sleeve to the yoke. The sleeve expands as the knuckle is torqued into position.

Mark

GREAT!!! The ball joint separated with the second swat from the sledge. The next minor issue was how to remove the adjusting sleeve. I tried to back it out but it proved difficult so I turned it clockwise so it came out the bottom of the yoke.
THANKS AGAIN for the assistance!!!
 

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garberz

Bronco Influencer
Joined
Jun 24, 2007
Messages
6,856
Loc.
Conejo Valley, Ca.
GREAT!!! The ball joint separated with the second swat from the sledge. The next minor issue was how to remove the adjusting sleeve. I tried to back it out but it proved difficult so I turned it clockwise so it came out the bottom of the yoke.
THANKS AGAIN for the assistance!!!

Glad that worked out for you! 👍🏻

Mark
 
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