Anyone familar with changing a yoke on a ford 9"?

[77bronco_ed]

Anyone familar with changing a yoke on a ford 9"?

I need to switch over to a 1350 series yoke... I have the yoke but after looking into it a bit I am not sure if I want to take the chance of screwing something up.

I have read that some folks have replaced a seal simply by marking position and even counting the turns before removing the nut. Reversing the order after installing the new seal.

Even if the yoke is the same size I am not I sure if I am comfortable with this. Hearing that it can be done but the crush sleeve is really made for one time use and if over tightened problems could occur.

Is it possible to remove the Pinion Assembly and take this to a shop to have the yoke replaced? (Becareful NOT to lose or screw up shims?) When putting together I read it is best to have them use a solid shim.
If this is possible anyone know of a place in the Detroit area to take it to?


Thanks

 

[77bronco_ed]

Has anyone tried to measure the crushed sleeve and use the correct spacer/shims to duplicate?

 

[NYLES]

Pulled alot of yokes, put em all back with a impact never had a problem!

 

[7elk]

I agre with NYLES, I have never had any trouble just putting one back on.

 

[Revelation]

Simple, install a new crush sleeve then torque it to spec.

 

[robofig]

The guy that built me 9 in used a spacer, not a crush sleave, so I could change out yokes no problem. I would count threads and give it a try, see what happens. If it leaks, go from there.

 

[oregon bronco]

If you have a torque wrench you can check the torque of the pinion nut before you take it off, then just torque it back to the same spec. I have done way more than I can count this way and never had any problems.

 

[broncnaz]

Just use a new crush sleeve. I've done a lot of them both using new and reusing old sleeves have only had one issue of having the pinion nut losenning a bit I should have used lock tite on the nut but I didnt.
When I rebuild diffs I like to use the solid spacers so i dont have to worry about a crush sleeve if I ever need to pull the yoke.

 

[broncodriver99]

Either a new crush sleeve or get a inch/lbs. torque wrench, remove pinion assy. measure bearing preload. Replace yoke and seal and torque to previous measurement.

 

[tortuga]

I believe you can buy a crossover u-joiint from Napa that will fit 1350 on one side and 1310 or whatever on the other if you don't want to deal with with the pinion settings.

 

[bmc69]

I believe you can buy a crossover u-joiint from Napa that will fit 1350 on one side and 1310 or whatever on the other if you don't want to deal with with the pinion settings.

I believe you are mistaken. You can buy one that crosses the 1330 over to 1310..but the 1350 is one big friggin u-joint (1-ton and up). I converted parts of the driveline under my EB trail rig to 1350..and the yoke for my rear D60 was very $$, but breakage did go down.

To the OP, nothing special to swap a pinion yoke in place and I've done many without changing literally anything. Just remove nut and old yoke, slap new one in and re-tighten to spec. Check bearing play and pre-load and off ya go.

 

[needabronco]

I wouldn't worry about the crush sleeve, it take a LOT of torque to crush it to spec'. I would just R&R the yoke and be done with it. I PROMISE you 99.9% of the mechanics in the that replaces yokes and/or seals just zips the new one on with an impact and doesn't worry about it... Ic your really worried about it, then pull the pinion assembly and check the inch pound reading, the R&R the yoke and put it back to the same reading.

 

[cali_zuk]

I would replace the pinion support bearings and use a solid pinion spacer when u install the yoke. That way you can set the proper pinion pre-load. If you just swap the yoke, use the stock crush sleeve you could easily end up with too much pre-load. While its hard to initially crush the crush sleeve, its easy after its started to crush.

 

[bmc69]

I wouldn't worry about the crush sleeve, it take a LOT of torque to crush it to spec'. I would just R&R the yoke and be done with it. I PROMISE you 99.9% of the mechanics in the that replaces yokes and/or seals just zips the new one on with an impact and doesn't worry about it... .

x2. I've done it that way without incident too many times to ever count. Think about it..replacing the yoke is exactly what you do every time you change a pinion seal for goodness sake! Except you then 'replace' the yoke with the one you just pulled out.

 

[DirtDonk]

Where do you get a 1350 yoke for a 9" anyway? Not the regular channels I wouldn't think. Or did Ford ever offer that size joint on a 9"?
If not, are any aftermarket ones available? Spendy?

Paul

 

[77bronco_ed]

These came from Tom Woods however I think you can get them from typical Bronco sites. A quick google search and dealers will show up.

 

[77bronco_ed]

Where do you get a 1350 yoke for a 9" anyway? Not the regular channels I wouldn't think. Or did Ford ever offer that size joint on a 9"?
If not, are any aftermarket ones available? Spendy?

Paul

Jeffs BG has the yoke...

 

[DirtDonk]

Thanks!

Paul