Bed Panel Gap?

[joebronco73]

All, I'm getting into cleaning up my '73 that sat for several years and, as I was getting dirt/debris out of the bed area, I noticed a gap between the ben pan and wheel well (see pics below). Just looking at it, I don't see any rust and the metal sounds solid...I plan to eventually get some insulation and carpeting in it, however, I want to make sure it's fully sealed. In the second photo, you can actually see daylight/driveway near the wheel well. My questions are: would this be unwise to lay a weld bead in it? Was this only tacked by the factory? I may be overthinking it, but I don't want to weld a spot that is going to flex and break loose again.

I also plan to remove the DIY herculiner - it was done years ago and I've never been confident it was the best option for the floors, so I figure this is as good a time as any to patch up any spots that need it. Thanks, in advance.

 

[jeffncs]

That seam is comprised of the bed and inner wheel well pinching together and spot welded along the junction. You can easily see the seam from the bottom too.

My first recommendation is to wire clean the seam with an angle grinder and wire wheel attachment (wear your PPE!) to remove the Herculiner and dirt to see what’s going on there.

If solid, treat any rust present with a good Rust Converter (I like the Eastwood stuff). Then epoxy prime the seam and paint it. I finish it off with a bead of seam sealer pushed as far into the seam as possible with another coat of paint to cover the fully cured seam sealer. You can do the same process from the bottom side of the pinch weld.

If rusted bad (perforation), you can buy time using the above process but the right fix will be cutting out the rust and welding in fresh steel. Once solid again, you can skip the Rusr Converter and go straight to epoxy, paint, seam sealer, paint.

 

[joebronco73]

That seam is comprised of the bed and inner wheel well pinching together and spot welded along the junction. You can easily see the seam from the bottom too.

My first recommendation is to wire clean the seam with an angle grinder and wire wheel attachment (wear your PPE!) to remove the Herculiner and dirt to see what’s going on there.

If solid, treat any rust present with a good Rust Converter (I like the Eastwood stuff). Then epoxy prime the seam and paint it. I finish it off with a bead of seam sealer pushed as far into the seam as possible with another coat of paint to cover the fully cured seam sealer. You can do the same process from the bottom side of the pinch weld.

If rusted bad (perforation), you can buy time using the above process but the right fix will be cutting out the rust and welding in fresh steel. Once solid again, you can skip the Rusr Converter and go straight to epoxy, paint, seam sealer, paint.

Thanks, Jeffncs! That's what my next question was going to be; I've not used seam sealer before and this looked to be a good use for it. As for the rust converter, I've been trying to parse out the differences in Corroseal vs Eastwood...not sure if its simply preference though.

 

[jeffncs]

I go through a lot of seam sealer. The most cost effective is the “brush on” which really doesn’t brush well. I use a nitrile glove to mash it into the seam then soak a rag in thinner to clean up and smooth the mess. …and it will be a mess unless you clean it.

The other option is a caulk gun tube which is definitely cleaner and may be your best option here. Draw the bead smooth with a gloved finger then clean it with thinner.

Either option will have it looking good as new.

 

[Torkman66]

Do exactly as outlined above but for rust converter, go to Lowe’s and buy a gallon of Ospho. It is green. It is liquid and can be put in a spray bottle. Spray it into the cracks and let it run out underneath. Be careful, it eats concrete. It’s destroys all traces of rust. After it dries it leaves a white film that can be painted over the top. I would do the same thing then with epoxy…spray it in the crack until paint runs out the bottom. Let it dry 24 hours then use 3M auto seam sealer then paint again after the sealer dries.

 

[joebronco73]

Do exactly as outlined above but for rust converter, go to Lowe’s and buy a gallon of Ospho. It is green. It is liquid and can be put in a spray bottle. Spray it into the cracks and let it run out underneath. Be careful, it eats concrete. It’s destroys all traces of rust. After it dries it leaves a white film that can be painted over the top. I would do the same thing then with epoxy…spray it in the crack until paint runs out the bottom. Let it dry 24 hours then use 3M auto seam sealer then paint again after the sealer dries.

Ahh...good to know! I also have some small surface rust spots that need some touching up.

Thanks, Jeff/Tork. Instinct told me to get that seam welded, but I wanted to make sure I either needed to replace the panel or patch it first. Seems like I should trust my gut more