Best Way to Deal With Sheared Bolt on Clutch Bell Crank Support?

[ILikeBond]

When disassembling my engine compartment, I had the head shear off of one of the two bolts holding the Clutch Bell Crank Support on the driver-side frame rail.

Unfortunately, it is the rear-most hole and because of its angle and the firewall, presents a major challenge as there is no way to get a drill to line up squarely (e.g., to drill out or use an easy out). Best I could do using the drill was to make a hole in the outer edge, but I couldn't get a grip with an easy-out, and no amount of pounding using that area for grip, would get the bolt to turn.

I also tried to kind of tap a slit in the bolt with a center punch (using it like a chisel), to create a groove that a flat head screwdriver might be able to grab, but so far no success.

Any tools I'm not thinking of that could help? Any way to access the bolt from inside the frame, e.g, via the oval hole between the bolt holes? I tried putting needle nose pliers in there, but they didn't have enough movement.

Alternatively, can I either attach the clutch bell housing support with the single front bolt, or use that bolt and tack weld the rear portion to the frame? Does that present any problems I'm not seeing?

 

[Crawdad]

Use extractor set. I'd drill it, apply heat in this case or use some bolt remover spray, tap with hammer then back out with easy out.

 

[lonesomecur]

Bolt extraction 101.... Lay a 5/16 flat washer over broken bolt and weld a nice plug weld in center of washer. Not too much bead. Keep it pretty flat. Then tack weld a nut to the washer. Let cool and put a socket and ratchet on it. Comes right out.

 

[sp71eb]

I use the welded nut trick alot. If you have to use an exractor I have found these work really good. They come with drill bits and pilots to make the job easier. I will say I have been impressed with what these extractors will remove. Mine is a Matco brand set but I'm sure they are all made in the same place. http://www.amazon.com/Screw-Extractor-Broken-Remover-Drill/dp/B006YDQ812/ref=pd_sxp_grid_i_2_2

 

[Broncobowsher]

A broken bolt that snapped off when trying to remove will not come out with any extractor/EZ out. It will only make things worse. About the only time they could possibly work is when you broke a fastener from over tightening or some impact force. Something where the threads are fairly clean. If the threads are siezed enough to break the head off they are siezed enough to break the extractor. and you can't drill that hardened extractor.

The weld a nut trick works great. I started doing that about 10 years ago. Best in aluminum. Steal can be done but is a lot trickier. Care NOT to weld the fastener to the frame can be the hardest part. But the heat soak combined with adding some point to apply torque is a great combination.

 

[red hot71]

I'd heat it red hot and than quench it with water, then try your punch again.

 

[ILikeBond]

Wow, thanks for all the suggestions! I will try the welded nut tip, which may be tricky because of the small size (e.g., avoiding the frame), but that makes a lot of sense and I bet I can figure something out.

FYI, here are more pictures than you reasonably need to see of what it looks like now, after I beat it up to no avail yesterday (the first pictures above were before I started working on it - just took these now). In some of the close-ups you can see the best hole I was able to make with a hardened easy out/left hand drill bit combo bit from a set I bought at Home Depot. Was not able to get any straight angle on it due to the angle of the rail at that point and proximity of the firewall.

I probably made things worse. %)

Probably also wasn't a great idea to run Chassis Saver over the area before attempting this. %) It's instructions advise to stick a plastic bag between its lid and can when closing and storing because the product "glues steel together." I have hit it with a ton of blowtorch and PB blaster, though.

 

[DrawBack]

Bolt extraction 101.... Lay a 5/16 flat washer over broken bolt and weld a nice plug weld in center of washer. Not too much bead. Keep it pretty flat. Then tack weld a nut to the washer. Let cool and put a socket and ratchet on it. Comes right out.

X2 That's the best way I know of.;D

 

[Crawdad]

The flat washer approach may do the trick. But since its flush and contaminated with paint and other chemicals I'd be surprised if the weld will hold up. I've used heat and EZ outs on broken engine bolts before. Seems to work every time when rust is the culprit. I've also drilled out, apply heat, light press fit an allen wrench, tack welded and used a cheater bar. Even a brass punch with piece of tool steel on end might get you somewhere since space is critical. a very small hand drill might get you in there as well. We all have our home-grown ways of removing stuck bolts. One approach may or may not be better than another. Be happy its not a hardened ss 1/4-28 in a $20m jet engine! Talk about a PITA!
In the end you may have to drill it out completely and go up the next bolt size.

 

[bmc69]

The flat washer approach may do the trick. But since its flush and contaminated with paint and other chemicals I'd be surprised if the weld will hold up. .

I routinely "weld out" broken bolts that are in worse shape than what I see in the pics; the one in in the pic is an easy one to deal with. It's when the broken part is recessed below the surface that it gets more difficult...

I don't include the washer though...I just weld a nut on directly and go..

Extractors are the devil's invention. I've had so many jobs show up at our machine shop for repair that were caused by attempts to use various extractors. Broken off hardened tool steel in crudely drilled off-center holes; makes what would have been an easy 5-minute weld-out extraction a nightmare instead. I never understood why people can't seem to graps the simple concept that if you broke of a 3/8" bolt because the threads were stuck.....why on earth would you think that you could torque on a 1/4" diameter extractor jammed in to it and expect something good to happen? ;D

 

[Crawdad]

And yes you can drill a hardened extractor as well as broken drill bits by using a pencil grinder and the correct bits. Done it many of times, in fact I give that test to new airman once they get out of machinist tech school. It's a challenge when you tell them not to ruin the parent material.

 

[xcntrk]

The flat washer approach may do the trick. But since its flush and contaminated with paint and other chemicals I'd be surprised if the weld will hold up. I've used heat and EZ outs on broken engine bolts before. Seems to work every time when rust is the culprit. I've also drilled out, apply heat, light press fit an allen wrench, tack welded and used a cheater bar. Even a brass punch with piece of tool steel on end might get you somewhere since space is critical. a very small hand drill might get you in there as well. We all have our home-grown ways of removing stuck bolts. One approach may or may not be better than another. Be happy its not a hardened ss 1/4-28 in a $20m jet engine! Talk about a PITA!
In the end you may have to drill it out completely and go up the next bolt size.

I'm thinking the heat from the weld will break what's left of the bolt free from its hold. Just a cautionary note, don't use any penetrating oil on there if you're going to weld on it. Ingesting those vapors really sucks!

 

[bmc69]

I'm thinking the heat from the weld will break what's left of the bolt free from its hold. !

That is pretty much exactly what happens. That's why I line up the nut (will use a 7/16 or even a 1/2" nut to weld out a broken 3/8" fastener...for example) and hold it very still and really nail the plug weld with as high a setting on the mig as I think it can take. Want to get maximum initial penetration and maximum heat transfer in to the stuck part.

 

[Rustytruck]

Did you notice how long the bolt is inside the rail. If you weld it let it cool enough so you can spray the bottom of that bolt through the slotted frame hole. running that bolt up through the threads again dry will probably get you in trouble again if you do get the bolt broke free.

 

[73azbronco]

Wile I have the experts here, and I hate to sidetrack, but I'm going from stock c 4 to manual, does my frame have those mount holes? Thanks and sorry

 

[Ranchtruck]

Extractors only work if you heat the sheared fastener glowing hot before you try twisting it out.

When all else fails, just weld that bracket to the frame. When will it ever need to come off again? You can get the linkage out by unbolting the engine block pivot side.

 

[broncosbybart]

Extractors only work if you heat the sheared fastener glowing hot before you try twisting it out.

When all else fails, just weld that bracket to the frame. When will it ever need to come off again? You can get the linkage out by unbolting the engine block pivot side.

Ha. I was going to suggest the same thing, but more as a joke. To be serious though, that would work. Just be sure to weld an edge that you can get a grinder on, should the need ever arise.

 

[ILikeBond]

Did you notice how long the bolt is inside the rail. If you weld it let it cool enough so you can spray the bottom of that bolt through the slotted frame hole. running that bolt up through the threads again dry will probably get you in trouble again if you do get the bolt broke free.

Yeah, it's a fair amount in there, I can definitely hit the bottom with PB blaster or other penetrating oil when ready.

Thanks for all the advice again, great discussion here. I'll post my results...

 

[ILikeBond]

When all else fails, just weld that bracket to the frame. When will it ever need to come off again? You can get the linkage out by unbolting the engine block pivot side.

This is kind of my thinking. I'm not going to give up on the bolt yet, but if the welded nut trick fails, I'll probably just tack weld the bracket in that area - I won't likely need to remove it anytime soon, possibly ever, but if I (or someone else in the future) does, should be easy enough to drill the spot welds or whatever.

 

[bax]

http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...=xh6BvL2-SsmZrNsLpViImg&bvm=bv.43287494,d.eWU

Here is a link to a good / short 90 degree drill. I think you can drill this out.