Bronco stalling issue

[TOBronco]

Can anyone tell me what they think is going on when driving my bronco it starts stalling. When I usually drive a far distance it stalls, then i let go of the gas and acc it, starts working again. any Thoughts?

thanks!,

Thomas.

 

[70_Steve]

Can anyone tell me what they think is going on when driving my bronco it starts stalling. When I usually drive a far distance it stalls, then i let go of the gas and acc it, starts working again. any Thoughts?

thanks!,

Thomas.

Not enough gas getting to the carburator. There's enough gas getting to the carb to let the engine idle, but not enough to run the engine under load.

Check fuel filters, rubber fuel lines, etc.

 

[DirtDonk]

If it's just dying instantly with no warning, no burbling, no nothing, then it could also be electrical. Yeah, around here every problem has at least 15 different things it could be!

Anything similar you can think of that is going on during these episodes? Same temperature, same driving time before dying, same level of fuel, same tank you're feeding from, etc? Anything you can think of might help.

Do you have a tach? If so, watch it the next time it dies on you. If it's electrical, the tach will just go dead instantly with nothing else going on, as you coast to a stop (or until the engine re-fires). If it's fuel related though, the tach will continue to read the engine rpms as it coasts down.

Good luck.

Paul

 

[blubuckaroo]

Not enough gas getting to the carburator. There's enough gas getting to the carb to let the engine idle, but not enough to run the engine under load.

Check fuel filters, rubber fuel lines, etc.

Also check for a pinched gas tank vapor recovery hose.

 

[TOBronco]

Reply to all:

I have replaced the old 2bb carb with a new one.
New gas filter
New spark plugs....but now that I remember I dont recall that my "friend" gapped the plugs to .040

Could this be the root of my problem?

Also here are a few other symptoms I am having with this issue.

When I add gas to bronco I am unable to put no more than $20 before the pump "clicks" to signify that its full. Could just be the age of the bronco.

I will check the fuel lines tomorrow along with the vapor recovery hose

No Tach meter

Temp is normal, voltage is unknown due to the voltage regulator frying.

In Idle it never dies, only when driving there is a slight misfire. A few thumps about 4-6, but then it stops and works fine for a few more miles.

Thanks,

-Thomas

 

[Rustytruck]

I would I would check, change or adjust the points they may be too close together. Clean the inside of the cap and rotor. Try driving with the gas cap loose and see if it solves the stalling issue indicating a gas tank vent issue.
I you still have points the plug gap should have been .032. Bucking and stalling whill driving a full speed check the fuel filter.
Check the plug wire connections at both end of the wire.

 

[dave67fd]

What was the cause for the regulator frying?
You said carb was new. Has it been adjusted? New pretty much means rebuilt. All rebuilds are not created equal. Could be a combo of things.

 

[TOBronco]

The cause of the regulator frying, I had a bad mechanic that was helping me and put the black and red wire to the side and said I did not need it. I haven't hooked it up yet but will tomorrow an hopefully that's the cause.
Regarding the carb it was supposedly "adjusted".

 

[DirtDonk]

Don't hook the new regulator up to power until it's bolted to the body. And yes, reconnect the Black w/red wire to one of the mounting bolts.

While we're on the subject of that mechanic, did he mess with the alternator? If so, you might want to look/feel down behind the alternator to make sure that the big rubber strain relief of the wire bundle has it's little steel tab over one of the studs and nutted down tight.
That little tab, or ring, is the other end of that ground wire at the alternator.

Paul

 

[TOBronco]

just started back working on my Bronco, my connection to the Voltage Regulator Has I/A/S/F for wire labels. The (I) connection doesnt belong there correct?
and for the (S) connection it has Two white wires do they go to the ignition Switch?
Man i want to finish this bronco.. ?:?
i want to take it out for a road trip, but what can i do to it so it wont break down? any suggestions will be appreciated.

Glad to have great help from all you Bronco Amigos!

 

[Rustytruck]

http://seabiscuit68.tripod.com/images/73-74_01-05_color.gif

This diagram should help you it has the color codes. Thank you to fellow member Seabiscuit.

 

[BluebroncoNC]

Out of curiosity are you running with anything other than stock gas caps?

 

[Viperwolf1]

just started back working on my Bronco, my connection to the Voltage Regulator Has I/A/S/F for wire labels. The (I) connection doesnt belong there correct?
and for the (S) connection it has Two white wires do they go to the ignition Switch?
Man i want to finish this bronco.. ?:?
i want to take it out for a road trip, but what can i do to it so it wont break down? any suggestions will be appreciated.

Glad to have great help from all you Bronco Amigos!

Here's a diagram for the regulator.

 

[blubuckaroo]

Reply to all:


Also here are a few other symptoms I am having with this issue.

When I add gas to bronco I am unable to put no more than $20 before the pump "clicks" to signify that its full. Could just be the age of the bronco.


In Idle it never dies, only when driving there is a slight misfire. A few thumps about 4-6, but then it stops and works fine for a few more miles.

Thanks,

-Thomas

This is the part that makes me think you may have a blocked tank vent. Maybe someone can comment on what years tanks were vented and what years had vented caps.?:?

 

[DirtDonk]

...my connection to the Voltage Regulator Has I/A/S/F for wire labels. The (I) connection doesnt belong there correct?

Correct. Not used on EB's or similar vintage trucks using an ammeter instead of an indicator light on the dash. Strange, but completely different wiring between the two types of dashboards.
Follow Viper's chart and you should be good to go.

...and for the (S) connection it has Two white wires do they go to the ignition Switch?

One does. Sounds like you have one of the generic connectors with all the wrong wire colors on it. Lots of those around, so it's common.
That connection on a stock wiring harness would normally be the Green w/red stripe one coming from the ignition switch. No need for two.
On other Fords, the "S" normally stands for "stator" but in our case, I prefer to think of it as "switched" instead.

So, your connections should be like this:
F= Field wire to the alternator's "F" or "FLD" post. Should be Orange.
S= Switched Green w/red from ignition switch.
A= Usually two Yellow wires. One samples system voltage and is connected either to the starter relay/solenoid or spliced into the Black w/red wire from the relay.
Just verify it's connected to a constant 12v source nearby and you're good.
The second Yellow is usually connected to a capacitor/condenser thingy that is a radio noise suppressor. Should be a little silver cylinder bolted to the outside of the regulator at the mounting bolt.

i want to take it out for a road trip, but what can i do to it so it wont break down? any suggestions will be appreciated.

Nope. Not until we know more about the rig. But basically, if you're running out of gas, how long has it been since you replaced the fuel pump? How long does the truck sit before it's driven again? Old fuel pumps get old with age too, not just with mileage.
But do what all the others have suggested too. You have new filter and some new lines I think? Good start.

What about the plugs? Where did .040" gaps come into the conversation? If you have points type ignition, that's too big of a gap in my opinion. Should be more like .035" unless you have a better ignition. Don't remember all the details and am running out so didn't have time to carefully re-read all the posts.

Paul

 

[Viperwolf1]

This is the part that makes me think you may have a blocked tank vent. Maybe someone can comment on what years tanks were vented and what years had vented caps.?:?

'70 is when the tank vent/charcoal canister system arrived. Prior to then the caps were vented. Lots of those systems have been removed by people that don't understand them though. Easy test is to remove the cap when it dies and see if air rushes in.

 

[TOBronco]

Thank you bronco family,
for helping me fix my bronco.
I dont know what i wouldve done without yall! ;d

 

[DirtDonk]

Great to hear!

But you're not off the hook that easy. What did it turn out to be? Something discussed, or something related in a sideways type way? ;D
And was it just one thing, or a whole slew?

Thanks. And again, glad it's fixed. For now at least. Hey, it's a Bronco!

Paul

 

[TOBronco]

yeah it seems im not off the HOOK,
Drove it to work today and while i was driving over a bridge in an incline it starts burbling as if the carburator is not recieving gas..

i gapped the plugs to .035 and my voltage regulator is working great havent gotten any problems from it yet. I also adjusted the carb feels way better.