carburator question

[whyme26]

Hello all,
Some of you may know this already but I picked up a sweet 66 in really good shape. Anyway, this is probably going to sound like a really stupid question (and probably the first of many) but I'm pretty new to carburated engines..

I'm attempting to swap out the single barrel carb on this rig with a spankin new one. The new vs. the old are pretty similar as far as all the connections and what not, but there is one thing that's got me going crazy.

The throttle connection seems to be set up a little differently and binds up when attached. It seems like it would work fine if the carb sat up 3/4" or 1" or so. so that the mechanism can clear the cable. Do they make adapters or spacers or something that can raise this carb up? and if they do does anyone know what they are called and maybe where I can get one?

It's a single barrel for a 170-6 cyl, the carb is made by Holly.. Sorry for the dumb question I'm just getting going on this and figured it would be a no brainer.. go figure.

 

[NMWILLY]

Are you missing the spacer that is under the carb?
One of the heater hoses connects to it to run hot water under the carb.

 

[whyme26]

Nope, that's there. I'm going to grab a couple pictures of what I'm talking about. It just seems like the carb needs to sit up a little higher, or I don't know.. everything else seems to fit fine.

 

[whyme26]

alright the first picture is the old vs new
the second shows the binding spots. It seems to me that if the whole carb body was up a little higher both binding points would be solved? Or perhaps the way the cable is routed needs to be altered? Or maybe this is just the wrong carb...

 

[NMWILLY]

What carb are you trying to swap on there?
Is something wrong with rebuilding the 1100?
The distributor vacuum advance is ported through the 1100.
You can run into all kinds of problems if the new carb is not set up for this.

 

[whyme26]

yeah, I think I've come to the conclusion that rebuilding the original one is the way to go. When I bought the truck the guy threw in that new carb that was supposed to fit. It just doesn't.. So now I need to find a rebuild kit..

I'm pretty new to all of this, give me some fuel injection and an ecu chip and I'm all set, but this carb stuff is a whole new ballgame!

Got a heck of a deal on the truck and couldn't pass it up (There's some pics in the bronco chat section "advice for a newbie" thread) My wife is giving me the stink eye cause I can't drive it to work tomorrow.. oops.

Full on addicted now though!
Hello, my name is Andy and I'm addicted to early Bronco's

 

[phred]

Good luck with the 1100 rebuild. They are actually pretty good carbs and very easy to rebuild. Setting the float level is the most complex part I think.

 

[NMWILLY]

OK ... you have a "sweet '66 in really good shape" with original motor.
What's your plans for this thing? Stock or build?
It's not hard to put a kit into one of these carbs and get it running right.
If you have $300.00 bucks and your going for the "back to stock" rebuild I would send the carb off to Pony Carbs for a rebuild or restoration.
If it's a driver that your going to upgrade, I woukd throw a kit into the carb and get it running right.
Kits are easy to get and install. You can do it if you take your time.
The 170 is a good motor and will get you around no problem.

 

[whyme26]

Honestly I haven't gotten far enough to think about my long term plans for it... I just knew it was a good find and couldn't pass it up

My initial thought is just to get it running well enough to get me around and fix/rebuild things as time and cash permit.. I'm going to hit up bronco graveyard tomorrow (they're just down the street) and see if they have a kit for it for now. I'm pretty sure I can handle the rebuild. If nothing else it'll be a learning experience right? Thanks for the info on Pony Carbs, that may be something that happens later (if not sooner).

 

[NC-Fordguy]

The oem carb for your 66 is an autolite 1100.

It's designed to run in conjunction with the stock distributer. Ford called this sytem Load-0-matic. The distributer pulls initial vacume for advance from the carb then when the throttle blade is a certain point it will then pull manifold vacume.

Running a different carb will cause problems with the distributer.

Looks like you still have the carb ID tag. Take it to Napa and get a rebuild kit. Make sure to put the ID tag back on during the re-build. Also put in a new SCV(spark control valve), it'll come with the kit. I've rebuilt about half a dozen 1100s for various cars and trucks(mustang falcon bronco)The 1100 is one of the easiest carbs to rebuild.

 

[whyme26]

Ok, so I rebuilt and cleaned the stock carb today. Didn't seem to make much difference with the problem I'm having? She starts and runs alright with just a touch of choke on, but push the choke all the way in and spit-sputter-dead.

Any idea what would cause this? Not sure if this matters, but the carb kit didn't come with any parts for the power valve thing, but most everything else.

 

[DirtDonk]

Hmm, if it's got a power valve, I would think that this could cauee that type of problem. When I had power valves go bad in my old Holley, it would stumble off-idle like it was running overly lean. It wouldn't die completely, but it would act like it war running lean. Just like when the choke is off.
Hmm again, now that I think about it, a power valve would only come into play as you push on the throttle. Not at idle.
So scratch the power valve thing for now. But yes, I would replace it if you can find one.

As for dying when you push the choke in, how long are you waiting? Is the engine warming up enough? Does it run cold? Maybe there is no thermostat in the housing.
Have you checked for other vacum leaks? Too much air getting thtrough can act like that.
What about ignition? Might be time for a tune-up anyway, since, if your ignition is particularly weak, it might not want to light off the leaner mixture you get when the choke is off.

Just a few ramblings for now, but it might make us think of something useful to get this fixed.

Good luck.

Paul

 

[NC-Fordguy]

The power valve in built into the top of the carb plate. There is no servicable parts on that

The spark control valve should come in the rebuild kit. I circled it's location on your pic.

Sounds like you're running a lean condition if it runs with the choke pulled then dying out when ckoke pushed in

Double check the distributer to make sure it advances and that the springs are not worn out

 

[whyme26]

Thanks for the help guys.. I'm kind of stupid when it comes to this carb stuff.
So, the vacuum advance on the dist... It's all hooked up and all that. But how do I know if it's advancing like it's supposed to.. or that the "springs" aren't worn out? Does it actually physically do something I should be seeing or watching for, or how do you check for this?

I did replace the spark control valve with the cleaning/rebuild.
The ignition looks pretty old.. probably should replace that regardless.

I do/did let it warm up for quite a while.. 10-15 minutes or so, I would think that would be enough time to really warm up.

Thanks again for the help.

 

[bax]

You could always put injection on it.
Sorry I'm no help

 

[whyme26]

You could always put injection on it.
Sorry I'm no help

I'd love to... got a few bucks I can borrow?
I'll pay you back I swear %) ;D

 

[NC-Fordguy]

a hand vacume pump is useful for checking the dizzy advance

Have you tried hooking up a vacume guage to get a read??

Another thing to check is the accelerator pump housing. They will sometimes cup over time and prevent a good seal. I had this issue on the last 1100 I rebuilt. Drove me nuts for a few days untill I saw a little squirt of gas making its way out. Make sure the screws are tight.

There is also a pin on the little lever on the accelerator pump housing...make sure it is in the right location for your altititude