Centech Harness questions... Here's a tip!

[Nightstick]

Like I don't already have enough to do before Apr 27th, I came to the conclusion that the turd is gonna need a new wiring harness. The PO's method of removal was to basically cut off the ends of every wire %), and given my lack of experience I think it would probably take longer to figure all that out rather than just getting a new harness.

I ordered the harness and ignition adapter today, so I'm guessing it'll be here sometime next week, with a plan of installing it next weekend. I'd like to get everything prepped, so that the new one can just be installed when I get it. I found a helpful post on broncofix.com, but I'm looking for an electronic copy of the instructions if anyone has them. That way I can read over them a few times before install.

Can I just basically take out every existing wire, or do I need to leave some intact? The guy on broncofix said to use the existing wiper wires to run the new ones, but that's all.

Thanks!

P.S. This $1000 Bronco is quickly turning into a $5000 Bronco %)

 

[mortimersnerd]

The kit has new wires for the wipers, but I reused the existing ones because running the new ones looked like a major pain in the butt and the old ones were in good condition. You need to leave the pigtails on your marker, backup and turn signal lamps. Everything else goes. I've attached the Centech instructions as well as the Painless ones (they came in handy in a few spots). I've also included some of the other things that made my swap easier. Also, my kit from WH came with the ignition switch adapter already. You may want to check if yours does before you open the additional adapter you ordered.

 

[mortimersnerd]

OK, the Centech manual is too big to upload to this site, as is the Painless one. I was able to find a copy on google. PM me with your email and I'll send them to you.

 

[Nightstick]

I ordered the harness from JBG. Not only was the harness forty something dollars cheaper, they also had some other parts I needed that other vendors don't have. I read in another thread that they came with the ignition thing corrected, but after looking at Centech's site, the other ones are still made, and judging by the price I'm pretty sure I got the one without it. The additional harness was $25, but I would assume that the folks at JBG would let me know if I didn't need it. I sent ya a PM, thanks!

 

[Tedster100]

I just installed one this winter. I took as much of the old harness out in-tact as I could just in case I needed anything. Ended up not needing too much, just a couple of connectors. Whatever you do, don't ditch the old one till you are done, solder & heat shrink everything you can and use premium connectors. I used a Bernzomatic butane torch / iron to do my soldering. I was hotter than a typical iron and didn't have a cord, very handy! Did use 3 bottles of butane though.

Not terribly hard just tedious work. Centech has great support too.

 

[adam05ford]

Buy plenty of extra wire loom if you like everything loomed nicely and also stock up on zip ties. I also used a bunch of those small metal clamps with the rubber in them to mount the wires on the frame and under the body. All of the old clips that held the factory harness in broke when trying to remove them. Maybe get a nice ring terminal assortment too cuz you might need some when grounding and such. If your dash is all stock you shouldn't really have any problems. I have a lot of aftermarket switches and such so I had to do a little more of a "custom" install and it wasn't hard to figure out.

 

[Nightstick]

Thanks for the tips so far guys! Here's that link to the broncofix thread I mentioned.

 

[Nightstick]

Justin, thanks for the instructions! After reading over them it doesn't seem too complicated. I need to brush up on my soldering skills, which I'll do this week.

Couple questions so far...

1. From reading, it sounds like the kit comes with a new ignition switch, why don't most people use this instead of reusing the stock one?

2. Is there some place local you've found that has the retaining clips (to secure to the frame, etc) such as napa or autozone? I'm gonna hit radio shack for the looming and connectors unless someone has a better place to go.

3. I'm sure not many people can answer this one... My front end is tubed (no inner fenders or wheel wells) what's the best place to mount the regulator, relay, etc? I'm considering cutting out the heater intake area and putting the battery there, but at this point I don't know if I have enough time to do all that. Wouldn't that also prevent me from having a glovebox?

 

[DirtDonk]

1. From reading, it sounds like the kit comes with a new ignition switch, why don't most people use this instead of reusing the stock one?

1a Because their idea of a switch is to include your basic tractor/lawn mower switch that has nothing to do with keeping your old keys intact, or anything else remotely resembling an automotive switch. That's why the adapter version is more expensive. Cheap switch.
The adapter to a stock switch is the way to go.

2. Is there some place local you've found that has the retaining clips (to secure to the frame, etc) such as napa or autozone? I'm gonna hit radio shack for the looming and connectors unless someone has a better place to go.

2a I've always found just what I needed at the local auto parts stores. Between my independent and the local Kragen/O'Reilley's, I can get 90% of what I need.
For the rest I go to either Waytech Wire or one of the other electrical suppliers.

3. I'm sure not many people can answer this one... My front end is tubed (no inner fenders or wheel wells) what's the best place to mount the regulator, relay, etc? I'm considering cutting out the heater intake area and putting the battery there, but at this point I don't know if I have enough time to do all that. Wouldn't that also prevent me from having a glovebox?

With the heater gone, you can probably make room for the glove box and a battery. But it'll be close, so just keep the battery as far forward as possible, or put it in sideways for more clearance.
For the wiring, either mount it to the firewall or make a panel to mount to your tubing. If you go the firewall route, you may get into trouble if you don't calculate just where you're going to be removing material for the battery, but if you've got that planned out already, maybe you can figure out where things will fit.
For the panel, some aluminum sheet screwed to a couple of tubes will give you some mounting places for lots of stuff. But try to keep the starter relay on the firewall, somewhere between the battery and starter. That just keeps it cleaner and simpler. And that way you can just run the charge wire back across the engine top and over to the relay/solenoid.

I hate to add to your project, but from what it sounds like you might benefit greatly from an internally regulated alternator about now. No more regulator to find room for in the engine compartment. So maybe there's a 3G in your future after all? It's actually pretty simple in your case. Whether a Mustang serpentine or just standard Bronco pullies, you should be able to easily mount an early style 3G to your engine and only have one new wire to add to your harness.
Pretty easy.

Good luck. And don't underestimate how long it takes to do it up right and clean. I know many members have done it in a weekend, and yours may be even easier to work on than one with full fenders, but all the little bs stuff can take some time. So if this is a daily-driver or you're ready to go on a road-trip next week, keep that in mind.

Paul

 

[Nightstick]

Thanks for the advice Paul. It's a safe bet that the alternator is toast, and I'm sure the difference in cost between the two isn't that much. Sounds like a 3G is the way to go from what I've read.

I don't plan on running a heater, in fact it'll be coming out tonight. I had an idea of building a box-like thing to put the relay and other misc items in, just to keep it away from any mud or water being thrown off the tires since there's no fenders. I'm sure I'll have a better idea of what to do once I get the fender supports in.

I just finished up taking out the old wiring. Took about 3 hours I suppose, and the only PITA part was that I had to grind off the small bolts behind the windshield frame because every one of them was stripped out. I'm getting surgical with my angle grinder! I know it's not necessary, but I went ahead and removed the dash so I could clean and paint it.

You can see in the pics what I was up against if I attempted to use the stock wiring. I'm sure people have fixed ones mangled worse than mine, but it just seemed easier to go with the new harness. I like what Herman did with re-looming some of the engine wires. I'll probably do the same thing, but not right away.

 

[mortimersnerd]

After seeing the improvements in my EB, I'm not sure I'd own one I hadn't put new wire in. Just for example, the headlights were significantly brighter. I'll be curious to see what you think once you get it in. With regards to your questions, I'll pretty much second what Donk said. The included switch is pointless. I bought a new stock switch when I did mine because my old one was broken.

 

[Nightstick]

Looks like I'll be needing a new one as well. And a new windshield because I set it down on the old MC and broke it.

I never drove this bronco before I started this project. It was a mess, but it's coming together. I should have the tranny swap done tomorrow, and the tube clip done the following day. Then I just have to wait on the harness to finish up. I workin like a rented mule on this thing man!

 

[NC-Fordguy]

If you wheel your bronco, bouncing around on rocks and stuff, you might want to use the light sockets from the original harness for the instrument panel. The plastic ones on the centech harness likes to pop out.

 

[Nightstick]

Harness arrived yesterday, might wanna prepare yourselves for some stupid questions! Just kidding, I like how everything is labeled and it doesn't look as hard as you think it would be. If it's like anything else on the bronco, something will surely go wrong though.

I didn't get the ignition adapter (long story), but I ordered it the other day along with a new ignition switch so it's on the way. I also got looming (that stuff ain't cheap). I do have two questions so far...

The kit comes with plenty of connectors to solder on the ends, am I going to need more than what's supplied? I removed the heater, and I don't have any rear side markers at the moment, and I'm pretty confident I don't have a choke; is there any accessory that if I don't hook it up it will keep the engine from firing up? I know that's kind of a broad question.

 

[knack]

I don't remember needing a lot of of other connectors when I did mine. I cut a few special connectors off the old harness and spliced them in when needed.
As for leaving parts of the old harness in, maybe leave the engine bay wiring intact until you figure out what wire goes where. I didn't do that and had to scratch my head a bit.
One thing I would recommend: The first time you hook up the battery, rig a light piece of wire and a fuse holder with a 5 or 10 amp fuse between the battery post and positive cable. That way, if you have something really messed up you'll pop that little fuse instead of melting wires. Don't try to crank the starter, but you can check most of the other circuits - ignition, lights, etc. When you're confident everything is OK, then hook the positive cable directly to the battery and start the engine.

 

[DirtDonk]

That's a great safety tip knack. Luckily, it doesn't end up being needed very often. But all it takes is "that one time" and...

x2 on the connectors. I always use extras I have, but that's because I add a think or two here and there. You should have 95% of what you need in the kit. Things like the connector for the brake light pedal switch are nice to use, but the simple push-on blade connectors supplied in the kit (already crimped on) are very good and a tight fit. So if your stock one was questionable, or the plastic is ugly or messed up anyway, don't bother. Just use the supplied connectors.
Can't think of any other things you just have to have off the old harness, but I did buy new 90° connectors for the starter relay. Just to keep it looking somewhat stock-ish.
The colors don't match anyway, so "stock" is relative.

Oh, and one thing I recommend, especially during the winter months, is to put the harness in the warmest part of the house (or in the direct sunlight if you have any that day) and lay it out so it can stretch and soften up. You can still install it half-frozen and wadded up, but it makes it a LOT easier when it's soft and pliable.

While it's laid out, it won't hurt your brain too much to sit there and try to figure out if you want any of the wires to run anywhere else. Once it's installed you aren't going to be re-routing anything willingly.
One wire that comes to mind is the big Yellow "ALT +" or "ALT CHG" wire. Normally you use it as loomed, but if you're running a 130+ amp alternator, you won't use it at all normally. If that's the case, then you might consider pulling it out of the harness and exiting the wrapping somewhere else that you can use it as a high-power circuit for some other item like an air compressor or high-zoot radio or something. It's at least 10 Gauge (might even be 8, but I doubt it) and could be used for a lot of things. Since it's literally the other end of the large Red "BAT +" wire that comes out of the same corner of the harness, it's a direct-to-battery wire. So now's the time to figure out if you like where it is, or want it somewhere else.

Have fun! Remember, solder is your friend. And beg, borrow or steal a decent set of Weather-Pack crimpers, since you have to make up a few of your own for this setup.

Paul

 

[Nightstick]

Thanks for your suggestions so far Paul. I like the idea of setting it out in the sun for a little while, it's been in the 80s here daily so that'll help. I'll be starting on it tomorrow, and I'm sure I'll have some more questions by the end of the day.

 

[DirtDonk]

The 80's???? Where are you? In Texas or something? ;D

That's great though. Softening things up will sure help when it comes to the under-dash areas around the center and instrument cluster. The fuse-panel section has plenty of slack usually, so that's not often an issue, but between there and the driver's side, there is a lot of crapola that has to be tucked up and out of the way of radios and other appendages. And being able to form it around things makes it easier to find a spot for the two flasher relays.
The relays are one area that I think Centech could have done better. Sure, they're there and functional, but don't always lend themselves to clean mounting and you sometimes end up zip-tying them to some nearby loom or cable.
I'd like to see them mounted to the backside of the fuse panel or something. Still hidden and a bit awkward, but still easy enough to reach up and replace when needed.

Best of luck. And we want to see pictures! Some of you turning handstands when it's done, but more importantly, some of you doing head-stands while you're under the dash!!!
Now that'd be a picture!

Paul

 

[DirtDonk]

And speaking of fuse panels... Is this the '74 or the '70? I don't remember if you said, but either way, if you're using the glovebox as your panel location (very clean and easy to get to) but have a steel box, you'll need to cut some kind of a gasket or something to isolate the panel and eliminate any ossibility that the panel components will touch steel.
If you're planning to leave it on the floor/firewall (in the case of the '70), then you'll have to get creative in your mounting method. The panel in the kit is made more for the later model layout.

Same for the firewall grommets. If this is your '74, then the engine compartment runs will simply slip into your existing firewall holes on each side and you will have to cover the left-over holes in the firewall. If it's the '70, then you will have to cut a new hole on one side and enlarge one on the other. Then cover up the large rectangular holes left when you remove the firewall connectors.
Here again, the Centech is laid out like the late-'71 and later models.

Paul

 

[Nightstick]

It's the '70, and the dash is out and dismantled at the moment. Although, Izzy could probably stand on the floorboard and the back of the dash would be at eye level ;D

I have to weld in quite a few patches for holes in the firewall already, what's a few more right!?