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- Nov 3, 2003
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Yay! Congrats!
Did you get instructions with the kit? If not I can e-mail you a PDF of ours. Our link is temporarily dead for some reason, but I have a copy I can send if it helps.
There's a lot to know here as you've found out already. Especially if you were not involved in taking the old stuff apart.
Correct. Inner (larger) and outer (smaller) wheel bearings.
Races included, but in most cases you will find new races already installed so in most cases, use those.
The exception would be if you roll the new bearings (called "cones" in industry speak) around in the new races (called "cups" in the industry) and find them anything less than glass-smooth.
As discussed in another thread recently, bearings and races are one of the few remaining parts that are very precisely manufactured and where one brand might still be perfectly good when used with another. But when push comes to shove, there's nothing as consistent as using like brands.
Here again, you might find the new spindles already have their bearings pressed in. If so, leave them!
As I see was asked later about greasing, start by pressing a little grease into the spindle bearings. They are pre-greased, but it does not hurt to try to get a little more into the cavities. You will also pack the spindle with grease.
Use the same wheel bearing grease you will be using for the wheel bearings.
The seals will depend on two things. Which spindle design you were given in the kit, and more importantly, which spindle/axle design your Bronco came with originally. If an earlier model with the press-in seal behind the bearing that the axle slides in to, and the new spindle is compatible, then that's what you use. If you have the later style without the press-in seals, the later style with the two seals and the plastic thrust washer are what you use.
Your spindles appear to be compatible with the press-in spindle seals, but the big seals in your pic that I can see look like the inner wheel bearing/hub seal.
If you can find a printed or stamped number #4250 then that is exactly what they are. If you find another number, post it up and we'll see if it's the alternate for the 4250.
Yes, looks like you have duplicate spindle bearings and I do not see bearings pre-installed into your spindles. So you will press them in to the cavity to the bottom where they stop. Do not worry about keeping them flush for any reason. They should be slightly recessed when fully seated.
Correct. See above.
Once you slather grease into the inner cavity (coating all surfaces with grease to avoid rust issues) and fully pack the inner bearing with grease, install the bearing and then tap in this seal. It retains the bearing.
You do not normally need sealant. The outer surface of the seal case usually has a sealant/lubricant to help with the install and keep it sealed.
You can do it by hand, with a hammer and block of wood, or whatever round tool you have, but you must still be slightly careful or you can distort the seal putting it in. It's not hard, but it's not something you can sleep through either.
Before installing the assembled hub on to the spindle, you can wipe a little grease on the inner seal surface to help it slip over the spindle register.
Looking at the picture, you have the later style spindle seals. For the moment we'll assume this is the correct style for your setup. If so:
1. The small seal slips in over the spindle bearing and just barely holds itself in. If you bump the spindle it can fall out, but that's normal. I have always installed them "open side" facing in towards the bearing.
2. Next is the large V-shaped seal. The small lip faces the bearing and the larger flange side fits up against the axle shaft's inner flange.
3. The washer (original was bronze, modern replacements are plastic and it's been this way for over 40 years) installs over the axle shaft with the beveled edge facing the axle flange. There is a radius machined into the axle this fits over. You can try it both ways and you'll see which way it fits flush.
4. Then you can install the spindle over the axle shaft and bolt it to the knuckle.
If you pushed a lot of grease into the spindle it will mostly push out the end when you install it. So be ready to catch it and use it for the outer bearing and inner cavity of the hub. But putting grease in the spindle helps to ensure a nice long rust-free life for the components. The loose fit of the inner seals and bearings of the spindle guarantee moisture can get inside. Packing the spindle with grease should stop this completely, or almost so.
Sorry I did not read all the previous responses, so apologies if this has already been discussed. Going to do that now though!
Paul
