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Dana 20 WH Extreme Output Shaft Conversion help

JKH67302

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I'm right in the middle of rebuilding my transfercase and in the process of installing the extreme output shaft kit into my old output housing. The issue I'm having is with the small bearing race. It is not a press fit. It's a little snug but it drops right in. The stock replacement in my rebuild kit would need to be pressed in, so I am thinking this is not a housing issue. Is this normal for this race to not be a press fit? Thanks in advance, I'm in a holding pattern until I figure this out.
James

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JB Fab

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Should be press-fit, you don't want that spinning in the housing. Do you have a way to accurately measure the housing/bearing race. Once you have that info, you will know the solution.
 
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JKH67302

JKH67302

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Thanks for responding Jon. I figured it has to be press fit as well. I measured as good as I could with my dial calipers. The old race and the stock one that came in the master rebuild kit are the same diameters of 2.441. The one supplied from WH in the HD kit is 2.438. I can't get a very deep measure on the housing with my calipers, but the top edge is 2.439. However, of the three measurements I trust this one the least due to depth of the measurements. In any event, the kit provided race is smaller in diamter than the stock one. The question now is could this just be an odd ball defect or is my housing somehow slight larger preventing this install? I'll call WH tomorrow and see if they can measure another race and go from there.
James

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JB Fab

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You could also reference the bearing part numbers on the internet to see the published specs.
FYI, I did one of those kits on my wife's white Bronco a while back, it was press fit......
 
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JKH67302

JKH67302

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Good call on looking at tech specs online. The Timken race in the HD kit is smaller in diameter than the Koyo bearing race in the rebuild kit, so not a defect. The HD output kit has a mix match of brands for both races and bearings. It doesn't make much sense to include a smaller diamter race, so I'm hoping this is a mistake.

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JB Fab

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I would not consider mixing/matching brands of bearings/races unless it was a temporary fix maybe I'm OCD.....
I do know the bearing industry has had challenges lately, causing supply issues.
 

JB Fab

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If you let me know the number/brand that will solve your issue, I would be happy to check what I have ?
 

jamesroney

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You are going to find that you are "in the soup..." for bearing selection. I don't know who did the bearing application on the Wild H. extreme output shaft...but I do recognize your measurements...and I've spent a fair amount of time in bearing catalogs.

What I can tell you is that your measured bearing OD of 2.438 corresponds to a exact inch size of 2-7/16 diameter.
Your measured bearing OD of 2.441 corresponds to an exact metric size of 62mm.

There are only a few occasions where the imperial sized bearings get really close to the metric ones. Very much like your metric wrenches and your inch sized wrenches. The are all completely different until you get to your 16mm wrench...and it might as well be 5/8". (only .005" different) It is literally a hair's width different. (Not a red-hair, nor a flaxen hair...but more of a black hair.)

My experience with bearings is that bearing manufacturers are good. Really good. Any ISO certified bearing will come out better than I can measure. I've mixed and matched bearing races, cones, and cups from various manufacturers, countries of origin, age, new, used etc. They are all built to standard, and they are all good. And by good, I mean 6 sigma quality good. Temperature compensated, machined and ground to better than a tenth good. The problem with mixing brands is that you might accidentally install the wrong bearing combination. In Poke-Yoke terms, it's always better to use matched brands.

It is possible that the person that appliled the bearing decided that .004 was "close enough." If so, loctite will work fine. If not, you will need to source the right outer race. Keep in mind that many bearing installations allow for slip fit of the OD to housing, (so it very likely won't spin the race.) But you will need to find out the designer's intent.

The fact that JBfab above had to press his in tells me that you probably have the wrong outer race...
 
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JKH67302

JKH67302

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Good information James. I too feel like I have the wrong race, but interestingly enough I can't find this system on Advance Adapters website. I was hoping I could find some part numbers. It's possible the different Bronco Vendors assemble these kits and I wonder how much variation there could be in parts. I was a little taken back by the different brands as well, but figured they had to do this to get the conversion to work. Either way it seems to me it should be a press fit. Hopefully I have some clarity on the issue tomorrow morning when I talk to the vendor.
James

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JB Fab

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Like I said, ours was press-fit. Since that shaft/bearing assembly in stock form is designed to have a small amount of endplay, that would not be constant with a loose fitting race (IE: prone to spinning, difficult to accurately measure endplay).
 

WILDHORSES

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JKH67203, Sorry you are having this issue, not the first I have heard of it's very hit and miss. This is how we would deal with this if we were building the case. Not really a way to prevent this 100% of the time because of varying tolerances inside the housing and on the races. As long as the race is not loose in the housing, by loose I mean you have movement side to side and the bearing just falls out. If it is only spinning I would score the race surface inside the housing. Then use a little Loktite and smack the race back in with a driver. You could also trade up to the assembled unit if you would like to do that just pay the difference and we cover your freight. If it were me I like the kit you have now just for the compactness of it. Totally up to you.

Jim
 

JB Fab

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There you go... Straight from the horse's mouth (pun intended). It is a great product, we have beat on ours...

Jon
 
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JKH67302

JKH67302

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Thanks for responding Jim! I am all to familiar with having the exception when it comes to my Bronco, maybe we all are. As I thought about it more today I came to terms that this might be the case here too. I figured we would work something out one way or another, you all have always been great to work with. I'll give your shop a call in the morning to discuss the situation and see if it's a Loktite candidate.
Thanks again for everyones help!
James

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Rustytruck

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stake the race bore in the casting then clean the race and bore well then use the loctite.
 
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JKH67302

JKH67302

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Yeah Loctite seems to be the answer. There is only a difference of .026mm between the two races, so I don't have a big gap to fill. The question is which product to use, 620 or 660. I have no experience with either, but both seem to be for cyndrical applications. The 660 appears to be for larger gaps, which makes me lean toward the 620. Thoughts?

Rustytruck, when you say "stake" the race bore, is that another way of saying rough it up or vertically score it?

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