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Door seal escapades....

DirtDonk

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Nov 3, 2003
Messages
42,670
If anyone has pics of the original please post it up.
Thanks
 

MikeCon

Full Member
Joined
Apr 7, 2019
Messages
240
For those of you who are tired of messing with upper door seals and glue, this stuff fits great and you just push it on over the flange.

I’m still fine tuning and trimming but it’s much easier than messing with glue. It hides your old glue residue and has that nice woven texture on the inside edge.

It should work on the bottom as well if you fillet the clip on part off. All you need is a sharp knife and a cold beer.....
84b331b6c30fad7618752e008fd14a05.jpg



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https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NDR2B5O/?tag=cbama-20
Where did you get the seat fabric?
 

papy

Contributor
Sr. Member
Joined
Jun 13, 2012
Messages
652
Thank you slowleak. got the D bulb on order...
cheers


Papy, you did exactly what I did. Post #20 in this thread has a picture and a link to Amazon where I got the stuff for the window frame. I have since upgraded to a bulb type seal. Here is the link to it and a picture. Either of those will really help with wind noise. The bulb type is thicker but hollow, so it seals really well.

[/URL]

This is the bulb type
b6db4ec899d7d78381c97fba673cf255.jpg


This is the narrow foam type
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bigmuddy

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Dec 28, 2004
Messages
6,431
Thanks! I am waiting on my rig to come back from paint and then I start the long process of putting it back together. My bronco was all original as far as seals and such. I am going to give these a try I think.
 

chuckyb

Sr. Member
Joined
Oct 25, 2016
Messages
922
curious why you wouldn't just leave them on?? Are the 45* mitered corners glued back together after they're cut and placed??
The upper seals as they came from the factory (and as they are reproduced) span two different body parts....starting from the lower part of the roof at the rear of the door, it runs upward on the flange of the roof and over the side window and then the last part connects to the windshield frame. Therefore, I needed to cut the OEM seal where roof meets windshield frame in order to remove the roof. The vendors do sell a short straight section that just attaches to the windshield frame which is great for running without the roof. However, they do need to be glued on. With Slowleak's solution, I can peel off the trim from both roof and windshield frame, take the roof off, and just use a short straight piece for where the windshield frame meets the door in the summer.
 

DirtDonk

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Nov 3, 2003
Messages
42,670
I think they were just wondering why you bother with all that. Most of us just cut the mitered corner at the top of the windshield, leave the old seal in place on the windshield, leave the old seal in place on the roof and just remove the roof. As long as the old adhesive was still working no extra work was needed.
No removing of the seals means no replacing of the seals. Just put the top back on as it was and things usually line up and seal just fine.

That hasn’t been your experience?
 

syndicate1

Contributor
Full Member
Joined
Feb 14, 2015
Messages
377
The top corners. The bottom is a solid piece. The other thing I did, which helps with wind noise, is add some 1/4 x 1/8 closed cell neoprene around the window frame. Almost has that new car “thunk” when you close the door...

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0836Z1HN7/?tag=cbama-20

2ad4b73d61e80b94618f03ca169bc6e4.jpg
Hey Slowleak, I just came across your great thread, a simple clean solution that actually looks proper. Siskel and Ebert, (y) (y)

Given the low buy-in for the materials, I definitely want to try this out. I have a few couple of questions....


1) It's been over a year since the original post, How's it holding up? Water tight? Reduced wind noise?

2) What type of glue did you use for the mitered corner?

2) I clicked on your amazon link for the seal that you used around the door opening and the following seal came up as a sponsored ad. It appears to combine both seals into one. Instead of installing two separate seals, one around the door opening and one along the top door edge, do you think this one seal (link below) would work, better or worse?

Link - Black Door Rubber Seal Large Grip Range 61/64" Bulb Height x 17/64 Grip Range x 43/64" U Height


1641852244905.png
 
OP
OP
Slowleak

Slowleak

Bronco Guru
Joined
Sep 12, 2013
Messages
3,427
It’s holding up great! No leaks, very little wind noise, and the doors close better than ever. I leave a window cracked to prevent an air lock and the doors just swing shut…

For the mitered corners, I used 3M Black Super Weatherstrip and Gasket Adhesive #08008. You can find it at any parts store or Amazon.

I think that weatherstrip you posted might be too bulky for the bottom section. I liked the kind I used because the profile provides almost a square/flat surface when installed (see picture below). With that wide surface area, and the D-bulb rubber around the window frame smushed against it, you have a lot of sealing area to block out wind noise. I don’t know if the other would do that as well. I also like the look of the rubber around the window frame. It just looks more finished.
Good Luck!
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chuckyb

Sr. Member
Joined
Oct 25, 2016
Messages
922
I think they were just wondering why you bother with all that. Most of us just cut the mitered corner at the top of the windshield, leave the old seal in place on the windshield, leave the old seal in place on the roof and just remove the roof. As long as the old adhesive was still working no extra work was needed.
No removing of the seals means no replacing of the seals. Just put the top back on as it was and things usually line up and seal just fine.

That hasn’t been your experience?
Hi Paul! Well, maybe I didn’t do such a good job of cutting the OEM weatherstrip- but I really noticed a lot of wind noise when I put my roof back on for the winter. It’s much better now.
 
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