Drop trac bar bracket needed? Pulls to right with heavy braking

[marcussly27]

I have a 75 with a 2.5 DuffTuff lift, but it actually measures just over 10 inches from the bottom of the rail to the top of the axle... so technically my lift is slightly taller than 2.5 inches. When I brake hard, like really hard, it pulls to the right. I'm wondering if the trac bar angulation has something to do with it? I had my drums converted to disc last year.

Any suggestions on the trac bar mount, or why my truck might be pulling when heavy braking is applied?

 

[Digger556]

I have a 75 with a 2.5 DuffTuff lift, but it actually measures just over 10 inches from the bottom of the rail to the top of the axle... so technically my lift is slightly taller than 2.5 inches. When I brake hard, like really hard, it pulls to the right. I'm wondering if the trac bar angulation has something to do with it? I had my drums converted to disc last year.

Any suggestions on the trac bar mount, or why my truck might be pulling when heavy braking is applied?

Your trackbar is not parallel to the drag link. When you stab the brakes, the wheels may momentarily turn, but they should square back up after a moment unless you are holding the steering wheel perfectly rigid. Looking at your geometry, as the front suspension compresses (like under heavy braking), the axle is going to swing to the passenger side, relative to the frame, but the steering will not follow the same arc and will lag behind the axle. The net result should be the wheels wanting to point slight left under compression.


Your pull more likely has something to do with the front brakes and not the suspension geometry, but I would get a frame drop bracket or axle riser bracket to correct that geometry.

What disc conversion did you use? I went to Chevy discs many years ago. I had a similar problem as the pads wore. It turned out I did not grind enough clearance in the knuckle and one side was running into the knuckle under higher pressures.

 

[savage]

Here you go pic fixed , I agree with Digger556, your track bar and drag link need to be parallel. But when it comes to a brake pulling it can be other factors that can be causing it to pull, loose wheel bearings , bad brake caliper, worn ball joint,( Chevy disk brake) not enough material grounded from the knuckle. ;D

 

[marcussly27]

Thanks guys. I had Maxlider put in the disc conversion in the front, not sure which one they used. I'll for sure get the drop trac bracket. I did have new ball joints put in last year too. I think I'll start by taking in into the alignment shop I was at last fall, and see if they can help pin down the issue.

Why do my photos post upside down? So annoying. I'm consider myself tech savvy actually.

 

[Apogee]

Given the angularity of the track bar relative to the drag link, I would expect it to pull to the left under heavy braking, not right. That said, any of the things mentioned above, as well as the track bar bushings, alignment, TRE's, etc, could cause a pull to the right under braking.

 

[stlo]

Idk how much you wheel yours but have you thought about doing a axle riser like wildhorses instead of the drop bracket. I tore 3 drop brackets off my frame until I went with the riser and not one issue since.... a lot less stress on the frame with the riser

 

[Digger556]

Idk how much you wheel yours but have you thought about doing a axle riser like wildhorses instead of the drop bracket. I tore 3 drop brackets off my frame until I went with the riser and not one issue since.... a lot less stress on the frame with the riser

The riser also raises the roll center and reduces body, but you have to watch for frame clearance by the trackbar.

 

[marcussly27]

I didn't even know the axle riser was an option. Sounds like a superior option over the drop bracket? Thanks guys!

 

[bronconut73]

Depends on how hard core you are going to go.

The drop bracket is an easy install. The heavy duty ones sold today are superior to what was offered years ago.

Having said all of that....I am running a riser too (Duff's).

 

[needabronco]

A much simpler fix would be to get rid of the dropped pitman arm and go with a stock (flat) arm. They are not needed on a 2.5" lift, nor is a track bar bracket (on either side, either a drop on the frame, or a riser on the axle). I wouldn't suggest a drop bracket on the frame regardless.

 

[DirtDonk]

I would normally agree that this would be the simplest and quickest solution, but consistent with your measurements of how much lift you got, your trackbar angle is way too severe to be a happy camper on the street. So instead of removing the dropped pitman arm in this case, I would go ahead and use the drop bracket.

If you continue to use Duff parts, ask them if they have two styles and lengths. I've seen their heavy duty one and it's very nicely made, but is not long enough to match your very deep drop on the pitman arm.
And speaking of which, unless you make other tweaks or changes to an EB, you ALWAYS use a trackbar drop with a dropped pitman arm. Your bars were basically parallel when it left the factory, but by changing only one of the two matching items, that mismatched angle was created.

A riser definitely IS the stronger method, but as was mentioned there are two considerations. Lift height (clearance) and changing the geometry. Your lift height seems sufficient (looks like 3.5 as you were saying) but unless you change your tie-rod to TRO, you're not getting the best geometry you can.
Yes, a riser will work with stock tie-rod orientation. It's just not optimal. And while some have messed up frames due to the added leverage of the drop bracket, 90% of us using them have never had an issue. Every Bronco is different, as is every Bronco's use.

Whichever way you go though, you must get the two bars back to as close to parallel as possible. And as shallow of an angle as possible. You might temporarily improve things slightly by putting your stock pitman arm back on (if you have it still?) but you won't be optimizing it for your lift until you do both the pitman arm and the drop bracket.

Oh, and after you bolt the drop bracket on, you need to weld it. You can drive with a bolted arm, but it flexes more and you will see it in a slight wandering over the road that would not otherwise be there.

Good luck.

Paul

 

[marcussly27]

Thanks for the feedback Paul! 95% of my driving will be street. So a heavy duty drop trac bracket, in your opinion, is the better option right now? Sounds like the riser will give me clearance and further geometry issues? Also can anybody help me understand the TRO conversion and why I wound consider it in the future?

 

[toddz69]

Since you're going to be doing 95% of your driving on the street, a TRO conversion might not be anything you need as its primary purpose is raising the tie rod to keep it out of rocks and other trail obstacles that might hit it while off roading.

An additional benefit on a lifted vehicle is that it can help get your drag link angle back to a reasonable measurement without having to resort to a drop pitman arm.

Todd Z.

 

[DirtDonk]

So a heavy duty drop trac bracket, in your opinion, is the better option right now?

Yes. Like Todd said, I don't see any reason you'd necessarily want a TRO on yours unless there is just no other way to correct your angles. So a riser is not as desirable.
But for now at least, with something between a 2.5 and 3.5 inch lift, you aren't in that arena yet. The drops are typically optimized for a 3.5" lift, but will work just fine with 2.5 in most cases.

So yes, a heavy duty drop, when installed properly, is a good option. Just make sure whichever one you get has at least close to the same drop as your pitman arm.
Some of the nicer looking ones don't have enough drop for a 3.5 inch lift, or even enough to match the pitman arms. Most do however, so it's not hard to find one that will match.

By the way, just out of curiosity have you measured the rear yet? Distance between the frame and axle is approximately 6" when stock, so you would expect 8.5 for that 2.5" lift.
Just curious.

Paul

 

[savage]

Duff makes some nice drop brackets, I'm running one and had know issue with it, I still need to weld it on the frame. Here's a link to their drop brackets.http://www.dufftuff.com/SearchResults.asp?Search=track+bar++drop+bracket&x=22&y=13

 

[broncnaz]

The other issue I see is you have a adjustable trac bar but the drag link is not adjustable. While the drop pitman arm takes care of some of the adjustment the drag link would need. It probably over adjusted and that may also be a cause of the pulling. In any case I prefer to have a adjustable drag link on lifted vehicles.

It helps to have angles as close as possible but the lengths also make a difference. adjustability helps.

 

[marcussly27]

The other issue I see is you have a adjustable trac bar but the drag link is not adjustable. While the drop pitman arm takes care of some of the adjustment the drag link would need. It probably over adjusted and that may also be a cause of the pulling. In any case I prefer to have a adjustable drag link on lifted vehicles.

It helps to have angles as close as possible but the lengths also make a difference. adjustability helps.

Great point. My tie rods are original afterall all, so replacing those probably isn't a bad idea either. After all the great feedback, I think these are the two parts I'm going with. JBGs heavy duty drop trac bracket, and adjustable tie rod system.

http://shop.broncograveyard.com/Heavy-Duty-Drop-Trac-Bar-Bracket-66-75/productinfo/13513/

http://shop.broncograveyard.com/Adjustable-Steering-Rod-Kit-1966-75/productinfo/12727/

 

[savage]

The adjustable tie rod system looks great ,but is that drop bracket going to give you enough drop? I haven't seen that one, and when you look at their site on it, it does not give you a good description on how much drop. You might want to give them a call, to ask them how much drop it give you.

 

[marcussly27]

The adjustable tie rod system looks great ,but is that drop bracket going to give you enough drop? I haven't seen that one, and when you look at their site on it, it does not give you a good description on how much drop. You might want to give them a call, to ask them how much drop it give you.

I believe the drop pitman arm I have is from Wild Horses, which I believe is a 4 inch drop. I'm waiting to confirm this once they open, and will also measure it to double check. The JBG bracket is also a 4 inch drop, which should match perfect.

 

[DirtDonk]

Don't think we have an arm that has a full 4" of drop over a stock one. Stock is slightly angled too (just barely, but still a bit) so I think it's closer to 3" of actual drop.
That's just from memory though. A year or two ago I sat several arms side by side with a tape measure and posted it up here. Maybe someone can find the old photos.

Paul