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Electric fan VS manual fan

nvrstuk

Contributor
Just a Bronco driver for over 50 yrs!
Joined
Jul 31, 2001
Messages
8,960
LocalBoy...I've been doing a very informal survey regarding overheating with Stroker motors... So far, every guy I've personally talked with about overheating has backed up my theory...


Here it is... With an already good to excellent cooling system in place...

Aftermarket blocks with a good intact cooling system cools easily and never overheats.

Stock 351W blocks that are stroked all have an inherent ability to overheat...even with a great cooling system in place supporting the engine, it is hard/impossible to keep the engine cool.

I have talked with literally dozens of aftermarket block stroker owners and not a one has had overheating issues... Dart, Ford Motorsports, etc...I will only back this up with me personally talking to the owner so I can see the rig and verify the condition of the cooling system it currently has on it... like mpg claims, some folks don't understand how critical a small thing like a shroud that doesn't fit the fan properly and then say their engine won't cool or whatever... just trying to compare apples to apples.
 

pcf_mark

Bronco Guru
Joined
Jun 11, 2010
Messages
3,594
When you stroke an engine the angle of the rod to the cylinder bore gets pretty serious creating a lot friction. You can feel it when you assemble the engine on the stand. I think this plus thinner cylinder walls creates an increase in heat being rejected to the cooling system.

My .02 but spend on the cooling system in your stroker plan or any plan to build more than 300 HP.
 

Local Boy

Full Member
Joined
May 23, 2016
Messages
191
Loc.
Mililani, Hawaii
Nice..do you have any pics of your ducting?

As requested... * Tried to put some back lighting on them to help see them behind the front screen...

It's just simple sheet metal formed to catch the air coming off the bumper. It's located at the front end of the inner wheel well (both sides).... Under the batteries...sorry, can't see from the top as the batteries (both/dual) sit over them... I designed them to be inconspicuous and out of sight...

- Included some shots of the air intakes on the front bumper and another full shot, to show how it all goes together...

nvrstuk:

I would absolutely agree with you, totally! Prior to this motor..I had stroked the stock 302 and I could not get it cool no matter what I threw at it... All the cooling mods. (custom air ducts above, expanded metal inner fender skirts, hood scoop, electric fan, the list goes on) I have on it now is from trying to cool that stroked 302... The dam thing kept over heating.... It was a nightmare...and I hated driving it... I would kick myself in the balls every time I took it out, hoping that the additional cooling mod. I installed would work... NOPE! Put @ 8 K into that motor...NO FUN AT ALL!!! ........ I didn't know any better... lesson learned :mad:
A good strong motor is still a POS, if it over heats in 30 min. Been there, done that!

That's why for this one.... I committed to an aftermarket block (Dart) from the start...and made dam sure that this one would run cool in hot city traffic.... I did not want to relive that nightmare and loose that $$$$$...
This is supposed to be fun, right?

It is my understanding that:

As you know, I'm sure better than me, these aftermarket blocks have more material built into them for added strength and better cooling, and have redesigned oil galleries and cooling passage ways to accommodate the large Hp that the manufacturer designed these motors to handle... These blocks are purpose built specifically for high Hp applications; Hence the cooling capacity is optimized...

I was very happy to see this one made the cut, 600+ Hp, idles at @ 850 rpm, and stays cool all day long. That weight is now off my back, no kicking myself in the balls ;D...and the fun has returned!

How much is peace of mind and fun worth? Well, for me, the cost of these purpose built blocks is minimal, when considering the years of total enjoyment me and my family will have blowing the doors off everything out there... ;D Now THAT'S FUN!

Aloha
 

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OP
OP
Builtnotbought0

Builtnotbought0

Full Member
Joined
Sep 24, 2017
Messages
156
Loc.
Belen NM
As requested... * Tried to put some back lighting on them to help see them behind the front screen...

It's just simple sheet metal formed to catch the air coming off the bumper. It's located at the front end of the inner wheel well (both sides).... Under the batteries...sorry, can't see from the top as the batteries (both/dual) sit over them... I designed them to be inconspicuous and out of sight...

- Included some shots of the air intakes on the front bumper and another full shot, to show how it all goes together...

nvrstuk:

I would absolutely agree with you, totally! Prior to this motor..I had stroked the stock 302 and I could not get it cool no matter what I threw at it... All the cooling mods. (custom air ducts above, expanded metal inner fender skirts, hood scoop, electric fan, the list goes on) I have on it now is from trying to cool that stroked 302... The dam thing kept over heating.... It was a nightmare...and I hated driving it... I would kick myself in the balls every time I took it out, hoping that the additional cooling mod. I installed would work... NOPE! Put @ 8 K into that motor...NO FUN AT ALL!!! ........ I didn't know any better... lesson learned :mad:
A good strong motor is still a POS, if it over heats in 30 min. Been there, done that!

That's why for this one.... I committed to an aftermarket block (Dart) from the start...and made dam sure that this one would run cool in hot city traffic.... I did not want to relive that nightmare and loose that $$$$$...
This is supposed to be fun, right?

It is my understanding that:

As you know, I'm sure better than me, these aftermarket blocks have more material built into them for added strength and better cooling, and have redesigned oil galleries and cooling passage ways to accommodate the large Hp that the manufacturer designed these motors to handle... These blocks are purpose built specifically for high Hp applications; Hence the cooling capacity is optimized...

I was very happy to see this one made the cut, 600+ Hp, idles at @ 850 rpm, and stays cool all day long. That weight is now off my back, no kicking myself in the balls ;D...and the fun has returned!

How much is peace of mind and fun worth? Well, for me, the cost of these purpose built blocks is minimal, when considering the years of total enjoyment me and my family will have blowing the doors off everything out there... ;D Now THAT'S FUN!

Aloha

That's nice dude...same exact thing I was wanting to do...
 

CA Monkey

Jr. Member
Joined
Dec 4, 2011
Messages
106
Loc.
Tracy
that's pretty sweet. I like how nice it looks with the bumper and how it looks "performance" and not hack.
Great job
 

nvrstuk

Contributor
Just a Bronco driver for over 50 yrs!
Joined
Jul 31, 2001
Messages
8,960
408/418/427 strokers are almost the same stroke as 383 Chebby...no heat issues with the ones we built for cars -- compared to SBF strokers we are putting in Broncos... There are several Factory engines that have the same or much "worse" rod ratio than our 408/418/427 strokers and they aren't dealing with overheating... so side loading causing our heat issues I can't believe is the source.

I'm running thin metric rings and Grafael coated pistons so I'm taking an educated guess and saying my piston/cylinder side loading is less than many stock motors.


Last year, all of last year on a build, I had to completely cut out my inner fenders to accomodate my 40" tires, 6" up travel w/2 1/2" lift, 16" ORI struts,WB extension, D60 front end but not full width hence the major tire clearance issues (and a lot of other mods)...only saying this to justify why I had to completely cut out the inner fenders...for tire clearance.

That said, the engine seems to be running cooler...can't accurately test it yet... but not having ANY air restrictions has got to help... when the heat gets up to 100F outside, I'll do some more testing....

Remember, I can sit all day in 105F heat, wheel all day...and have no issues wth the temp gauge moving past the t-stat which is 195F (I've compared mechanical, electric and infared gun until I use LL available HP for a minute at a time and watch the temp gauge climb...doesn't matter if it's 20F out....yes, it's tuned properly.
 
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nvrstuk

Contributor
Just a Bronco driver for over 50 yrs!
Joined
Jul 31, 2001
Messages
8,960
LocalBoy, interested in your cam specs if you're willing to PM or post up??
 

Tucknkitty

Newbie
Joined
Nov 9, 2013
Messages
53
My .02 -

I have an ATK 408 - I probably don’t run it as hard as nvrstuck but I do run the piss out it from time to time. I also have the single speed mkVII fan with the be cool pwm controller and a Ron Davis radiator. I’m running a 195 deg thermostat and explorer front dress - I’m 98% sure she is tuned right (I’m sure it can always be better) and I have a FAST TBI - I never worry about cooling. Highway, mud, crawling (in dc traffic) or profiling through the summer.

I run at 200-205 regardless of temp outside. It never kicks on the high speed or full power of the fan - i have a safety full blast switch and never use it.

My take - both can work depending on budget and intent. Just have to decide.

Cheers
Tnk
 
OP
OP
Builtnotbought0

Builtnotbought0

Full Member
Joined
Sep 24, 2017
Messages
156
Loc.
Belen NM
My .02 -

I have an ATK 408 - I probably don’t run it as hard as nvrstuck but I do run the piss out it from time to time. I also have the single speed mkVII fan with the be cool pwm controller and a Ron Davis radiator. I’m running a 195 deg thermostat and explorer front dress - I’m 98% sure she is tuned right (I’m sure it can always be better) and I have a FAST TBI - I never worry about cooling. Highway, mud, crawling (in dc traffic) or profiling through the summer.

I run at 200-205 regardless of temp outside. It never kicks on the high speed or full power of the fan - i have a safety full blast switch and never use it.

My take - both can work depending on budget and intent. Just have to decide.

Cheers
Tnk

What's your opinion on the wildhorses fan on the last page? You think the mark fan is better?
 

nvrstuk

Contributor
Just a Bronco driver for over 50 yrs!
Joined
Jul 31, 2001
Messages
8,960
I run right at t-stat temp which is 195F until I hammer it for 45sec or more... then it moves...I've NEVER been above 220F. Just won't do it, I back off the throttle...

I think the consensus over the years on this list has been for mechanical fans: the Exploder fan pulls more than any other stock fan. The 7 blade is next, then the W/H fan. Caveat is not comparing fans used/converted to Broncos to some CAT earthmoving equip fan!! lol

Somebody correct me if I've got the order wrong...
 
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nvrstuk

Contributor
Just a Bronco driver for over 50 yrs!
Joined
Jul 31, 2001
Messages
8,960
TNK, what block is your build built on?

thanks
 

bbaltered

Jr. Member
Joined
Jan 17, 2012
Messages
109
So far so good with my electric.
https://www.wildhorses4x4.com/product/High_Output_Radiator_Fan_17in/Bronco_Cooling_Fans

Been 2 years now and no issues cooling my 351W. Even kept it cool whiles dealing with my cracked head (long story). I have it controlled with my SN95 ECM so it kicks on and off at the set temps. I have to say I really keep an eye on it. I have a mechanical gauge and have a habit of watching it climb at red lights only to see it start to fall once the fan kicks in. Piece of mind I guess. Running a 195 stat and temps stay between 200-210ish....maybe slightly over that before the fan kicks on.

I don't off road but so sit in traffic on hot Arkansas summer days.

Tim
Do you have it mounted on a shroud or right on the rad ?
 

bbaltered

Jr. Member
Joined
Jan 17, 2012
Messages
109
That is the fan I've been thinking about using . I have no cooling issues , I just want to get rid of the belt driven fan to free up some horsepower .
 

KyleQ

Bronco Guru
Joined
Apr 24, 2008
Messages
5,480
I love my Explorer mechanical - I'm cooling a 400+HP motor with a Ranger radiator, original fan shroud and a Explorer mech fan.
 
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