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Ford Godzilla Crate Engine

toddz69

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Take another look at my pics in post #27. The 7.3 is definitely a wider fit than a 351. The install reminded me more of a Coyote.

Todd Z.
 

nvrstuk

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Thanks Todd... once again a pic is worth a thousand words! :) Maybe the tape measures people are using were made in China?? lol

Doesn't make sense from measurements posted here but that 7.3 stuffed into the engine compartment in that SEMA pic sure shows it's wider than a 5.8.
 
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Jmjuhl

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Thanks Todd... once again a pic is worth a thousand words! :) Maybe the tape measures people are using were made in China?? lol

Doesn't make sense from measurements posted here but that 7.3 stuffed into the engine compartment in that SEMA pic sure shows it's wider than a 5.8.

Watched some YouTube videos that showed them side by side...7.3 was right in the middle at something like 27"...was 2" wider than Windsor but 2" narrower than Coyote. They measured top of valve cover corner to corner.
 
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rguest3

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I know I measured from the outer edge of the Valve Covers. My width number does seem narrow? Looking at the schematic on Post 63 I am not far off. I will try to reconfirm today and update if needed.

I know it is substantially more narrow than the Coyote at the same measurement.
 

rguest3

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Has anyone found any new Power Packs for the Godzilla Motor yet?
 
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Jmjuhl

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I haven't seen any other than the OBR one.
Have heard Ford was making one but haven't seen anything...likely with a 10 speed trans which I am not as fond of as the 6R80.
 

nvrstuk

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I have not been following the Zilla builds anymore. I will chime in that the 10r is a great street trans imo but the 6r I feel is the trail trans of choice for serious wheeling/rock crawling. Gear splits in the 10r are so close that it would be shifting continuously off road and if you were in low range you would be hard pressed to ever let it be in "auto mode" as it would be shifting and potentially causing traction issues, gently launching you into a rock at 1mph due to a shift, etc, etc. I would think that trying to manually find the right gear out of 10 different gears from a stop in low range would be frustrating. I have the 10 r in my F150 but it sees low range maybe 1x/year for 3 minutes. lol

I know the new Broncos have them but...
 
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Jmjuhl

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Indy Power Products had some dimensions on their website with their serp, oil pan, intake, and valve covers. With an aftermarket damper it looks to be about identical to a Windsor from back to front. Width appears to be almost identical to a coyote but that’s with aftermarket valve covers. They also have a new intake out that is shorter but looks to be designed for race application with shorter runners…loses some power down low in exchange for higher RPM power. All that being said their “crate engine” with those dimensions is almost $18k fully outfitted.

6R80 likely won’t be supported by Ford Control Pack so looking at $4k OBR, independent trans control, or a manual like the Tremec 4050.

Will need custom headers, etc, etc.

I am in love with the idea of the swap but cost could easily hit $30k just for engine, control system, trans, headers.
 

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Jmjuhl

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Looks like Ford is close to offering a solution for the intake manifold on the Godzilla which will solve some of the hood clearance.

The Ford automatic control pack (10r140) is out for purchase now and the manual control pack is rumored to be available by Q4. Since the 10r140 is way too big it looks like the only option is the manual control pack with a 6r80 and a quick 6 controller, or a manual.

I just finished swapping head gaskets and cleaning up the short block on my Coyote build and I am really tempted to put it up for sale and make the change.
 

Yeller

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With the aftermarket balancer the overall length should no longer be the limiting factor. still wide but doable, fender mods are way easier than firewall mods. I can say from experience swapping "other" engines in bronco's that a cowl hood will cover it with no body lift. 2" body lift and it should clear a stock hood just fine.
 

Yeller

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I keep looking at it and comparing it to other engines that I have reference data on, yes I even have dimensions on a SBF...LOL

I'd be concerned about diff clearance on a lower lifted truck with a stock width front axle. I've run into that with other modern engines due to the pan being more square and wider at the bottom. They hit the front housing and took a lot of massaging of the diff and oil pan to clear. I haven't had any issues with the high part of the pan, just the sump. With a regular F150 full width or a tall 5.5" lift it is not an issue.
 

rjrobin2002

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Is this what yall are looking for?
 

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nvrstuk

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I keep toying with other engines in my Shorty build and I have a 418 that I want to put a blower on but totally different again- would be a Godzilla.

The Godzilla name is great :) but not worth $18,000 IMHO but you can build extemely reliable power for about $10,000 bills less.
Still an option for a drop in (some day).

Lots of potential with it too. I will reluctantly admit that after about 800rwhp on a Bronco it gets a "bit out there". :) this coming from a HP junkie... lol
 

nvrstuk

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Will the Godzilla controller/ harness work properly w/o the 10spd if you run a 6r80?
 
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Jmjuhl

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Will the Godzilla controller/ harness work properly w/o the 10spd if you run a 6r80?
I think it will but the Ford Manual control pack would be the best bet...its really automatic control pack for 10R140...or manual control pack for manuals and automatics run on standalone controllers.
 

Broncobowsher

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I remember seeing that the oil pump is in the back of the pan, but is run by a shaft that runs the length of the engine off a small chain on the front of the crank. If that gets to be an issue it is going to be hard to get around it. I've seen where they delete the in pan pump and run an external (dry sump style) oil pump. Adds a lot of complexity. Not a fan of running an exposed dedicated oil pump belt. Oil and fuel pump I would be fine with, I want the engine to stop if there is an issue with the belt.
 

ssray

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I remember seeing that the oil pump is in the back of the pan, but is run by a shaft that runs the length of the engine off a small chain on the front of the crank. If that gets to be an issue it is going to be hard to get around it. I've seen where they delete the in pan pump and run an external (dry sump style) oil pump. Adds a lot of complexity. Not a fan of running an exposed dedicated oil pump belt. Oil and fuel pump I would be fine with, I want the engine to stop if there is an issue with the belt.
Maybe a pump that could drive off the front of the damper? If there was a thin pancake style pump out there somewhere, it might be an option if a drive could be fabricated. Length and fan might be issues though? As far as loss of oil pressure a Murphy style gauge as used in unattended engines could kill the engine or if not safe, set off a loud alarm you would immediately recoginise. An extra layer of protection besides any passive gauge and or idiot lights in the cluster.

I’ve wondered before about those that might be running a turbocharged engine at extreme wheeling angles. Losing oil pressure might not kill engine internals immediately but a turbo under some load could die if it loses oil pressure. Any electric backup pumps out there that kick in under low pressure situations before losing pressure completely? Might be an option to have with an external drive.
 
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