Frame Mounting Fuel Pressure Regulator

[fishinman78]

Curious on thoughts and opinions on mounting an EFI bypass regulator on the frame rail near the fuel tank.

I have always put it in the engine bay, but I see some high end builders doing it this way. I have concern that it may get full of junk/debris or maybe damaged. Maybe not??

Trying to keep my Coyote build really sanitary in the engine bay and looking for ideas

 

[DirtDonk]

The reason they're probably not too concerned about junk or damage, is that high-end builders charging north of $200k for a Bronco, are not expecting their creations to spend much time even on the road! Much less off it.
Probably won't spend many winter months tooling about, so damage is not likely except in the rare instance of something flying up from a tire.

If I had a fuel regulator (especially one with a glass faced gauge!) down there, I'd make a splash/rock shield to protect it. Probably just good old common sense in that case.
If it's going to be driven at all, that is.
I might even put it up further towards the business end at the engine, but that's just me. I prefer more return.

Paul

 

[AZ73]

I wrapped my dual tank switching valve in a protective shield, but there isn't a glass gauge on it I need to read. But I would think the way it's facing not many things are going to come directly from the drive shaft area to hit the glass, Maybe a similar shield as mine that extends past the glass 1/2" and drill a hole in it to read it should give you 1 in a million protection.

 

[abn373]

My pressure regulator/return is frame mounted, and I don't know what would realistically be able to damage it or the fuel pump and filters during any normal street or offroad driving. Never say never, I guess, but it's fairly safe and reasonable for anything my truck is capable of getting into.

 

[Broncobowsher]

Why not just run the C5 Corvette fuel filter/pressure regulator and call it a day? Simple, clean, works.

 

[DirtDonk]

I wrapped my dual tank switching valve in a protective shield…

I did almost exactly the same thing.
Was looking around for something to shield it with, and found almost exactly the same shape metal plate that was already bent up, sitting under the workbench in the garage. Happy day that day!

 

[fishinman78]

Why not just run the C5 Corvette fuel filter/pressure regulator and call it a day? Simple, clean, works.

I did do this on my last build with a sniper and it did work ok. I did have to install fuel damper because it was causing pulses in the fuel line to the engine.

This Bronco I am working on has a Coyote, so I was hoping to have a little more adjustability if necessary.

 

[ntsqd]

Not a fan of the Corvette part. Seems wasteful to replace the regulator every time the fuel filter gets replaced, and what insures that the pressure is consistent from one to the next? We've all seen or lived with the junk parts that seem to be the only thing available. Changing the fuel pressure changes everything about the tune. Maybe it's not a lot, but I won't put myself in that position by choice.

I'm also not a fan of placing the regulator on the frame near the tank. For a pampered street car it might be OK, but for the where I go in my vehicles it is not a great idea. I want the regulator in the engine bay because I want the fuel moving thru the entire fuel supply system to avoid vapor lock. Only rarely will the engine's demand move enough fuel thru the system fast enough to avoid boiling the fuel, but an engine bay mounted regulator will cycle more fuel thru the system than the engine can likely ever demand (or it should!).

 

[pcf_mark]

The factory regulators are on the rail to react quickly to pressure difference. I would try to mount it as close possible to the engine. If your fuel supply far outstrips the demand then probably not an issue. But you are making a lot of power you may have a random stumble lean spot you can't track down. It may not even show up in seat of the pants but will on a wide band O2. Factory does stuff for good reason (usually).

 

[73azbronco]

I used a higher buck aeroquip return style FPR, I have an internal tank mounted EFI pump pushing 70psi, I have it stepped down to 5psi at trhe aeroquip regulator because I use a carb so lots of fuel is returned while it runs, and it is mounted on the cross brace in front of the fuel tank. Flawless so far, and ready for efi when I decide to needlessly drop $2,000.

 

[BruiserOutdoors]

Chad,

I have been considering this lately too, and haven't made a decision. Trying to clean up my engine bay as well. My situation is a little more complicated because I have the BC broncos hardlines and a holley filter.

I have been studying these production shops and its really intriguing. I copied Highlines E-Stopp install method last night. Kinda slick.

 

[pcf_mark]

I used a higher buck aeroquip return style FPR, I have an internal tank mounted EFI pump pushing 70psi, I have it stepped down to 5psi at trhe aeroquip regulator because I use a carb so lots of fuel is returned while it runs, and it is mounted on the cross brace in front of the fuel tank. Flawless so far, and ready for efi when I decide to needlessly drop $2,000.

All that fuel working so hard to get to the engine and back to the tank!

You will never have vapor lock!

 

[ntsqd]

Some trucks (Dura-Max's for instance) route the return fuel thru a small cooler before it gets to the tank. Since the fuel running thru it is what cools the pump, just the pumping of that fuel can induce a fair amount of heat into the fuel. I have an Explorer PS cooler slightly modified and set aside for this use on the Wagon project.

 

[ba123]

I thought about the frame rail for mine but eventually decided a better spot low on the body but somewhat better shielded. I’d snap a pic but I’m out of town…shouldn’t be too hard to find on my build thread if you can’t wait but I also have a glass gauge that I can remove if I want, although I haven’t yet but prob should before I regret it. It’s easy to take the gauge out if needed.

Found it:
Post in thread ''71/'76 Badass Bronco Bronco Build'
https://classicbroncos.com/forums/threads/71-76-badass-bronco-bronco-build.318124/post-3513123

 

[Wild horse 75]

I plan on running my regulator back there as well. I won’t leave a gauge on it though. Those things are just too fragile to leave exposed to any elements. It’s easy enough to install one, set the pressure then remove it. A small vacuum line is cheaper to run than a return line as well.

 

[ntsqd]

Project that I've been working on, I have all of the parts to build 10 of them, need to execute a semi-tricky assembly step (likely need to make a tool) and then they'll be ready for testing. Uses the LM7 (truck 'LS') fuel rail regulator in a remote mount and is sized such that the Wix 33481 filter's adapter can be screwed right into the side of it:

 

[73azbronco]

All that fuel working so hard to get to the engine and back to the tank!

You will never have vapor lock!

Ever, ever, ever. I test drove it around PHX freeways doing 70, 110 degrees, 190 on temp. Pulled off freeway after 4 hours to first gas station, shut it off, let it sit 20 minutes, started right up.

 

[ba123]

Here is a better pic of mine to see how it’s kinda protected but removing the regulator like I should will be better.

It’s directly above the frame rail.

 

[73azbronco]

I would propose not having a fuel pressure gage there all the time.

 

[ba123]

I would propose not having a fuel pressure gage there all the time.

Totally…I mentioned earlier that I just haven’t gotten around to removing it. Trying to fix some issues, still breaking it in, and still some tuning to go so might mess with it more if I need to. But, yeah, I should probably remove it while I’m thinking about it.