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fuel system question

tpep3

New Member
Joined
Dec 16, 2013
Messages
30
Loc.
Elmhurst, IL
I just converted to the Holley Sniper and took it for the first test drive. Stopped to get gas and when I took the cap off there was a very strong rush of air. My question is if this is a.) normal and b.) concerning. I have the gas cap off when driving now. I have a frame mounted pump and the return lines goes to the filler neck near the tank. Thanks.

Tom
 

AZ73

Bronco Guru
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Mar 28, 2012
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3,546

DirtDonk

Contributor
Bronco Guru
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Nov 3, 2003
Messages
48,265
Was the air rushing inward, or outward from the tank?

Your '74 would have come with an EVAP system (frame mounted charcoal canister and a condensing tank behind a panel near the driver's shoulder) that "should" be able to take care of the system flow and heat expansion. At least in theory.

Is your system still intact?

Oh, and how did it run with the new setup?

Paul
 
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tpep3

New Member
Joined
Dec 16, 2013
Messages
30
Loc.
Elmhurst, IL
The air was rushing out. Vigorously. It runs perfect. Should I leave the cap off til I sort it out or keep it on?
 

DirtDonk

Contributor
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Nov 3, 2003
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Not sure. What do you think AZ? Any others?
My first inclination is to leave it on since it seems to be sealing pretty well and it might keep gas from burping out of the filler on to the paint. But if there is enough buildup, it's going to eventually get past the cap and do just that anyway.
If you leave it open, it will surely stop the buildup of pressure (one would hope anyway) but may leave you vulnerable to gas spilling out during hard right handers or off-camber parking and such.
Neither is good for paint, but old cured paint can handle it for awhile. On new paint that would be very bad indeed.

I don't personally see how you can build up pressure if your evap system is functioning. So I would check that asap just to make sure first that the parts are still there to begin with, and second that they're working.

Is this a stock tank still? And aftermarket tank?
If stock, there should be two small (about 1/4" or so) vent tube fittings just in front of where the main filler opening enters the tank.
Two rubber tubes should connect them to bent steel lines running along your rear wheel well towards the front.
You should be able to see three tubes (for a single tank) or four tubes (for dual tanks) then running vertically into an oval shaped rubber grommet. On the other side of that panel would be the condensing tank.

Three hoses to the tanks, and one comes out, runs across the body brace under the seats, and up to the front passenger wheel well area where you would have a metal charcoal canister bolted to the frame rail there. Normally has a steel rock shield strapped to it.

If that stuff is all there, you may have to blow some gentle compressed air (maybe less than 10psi or similar) just enough to listen to make sure it is all flowing as it should.
If it's not there, or is not functioning, the quick fix is to create your own vent to atmosphere, perhaps using the part that was linked above.
If the venting works, you should not build up either positive or negative pressures. Your cap should actually help to keep vacuum from forming, but is not allowed to vent outward to atmosphere after '70 model year.

If you just use a simple venting system, you will still get fumes where you park it. If you park it in a garage or elsewhere that fumes would be annoying (or dangerous!) you should get the full factory EVAP system sorted and working as it should.

Paul
 

ntsqd

heratic car camper
Joined
Jan 30, 2005
Messages
3,401
Loc.
Upper SoKA
Presence of a fuel return line doesn't make the system closed loop. With EFI the pump does tend to heat the fuel more than a carb system pump does. Partly this is because of the unused fuel being pumped endlessly in a circle.

Getting the EVAP system working correctly should fix the problem.
 

jhill52

Jr. Member
Joined
Dec 22, 2012
Messages
127
I agree with Dirtdonk. Cannister is not functionally correctly. I would not run without a cap. At least find a vented cap until you sort it out. You want to avoid any fuel spillage.
 
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tpep3

New Member
Joined
Dec 16, 2013
Messages
30
Loc.
Elmhurst, IL
Good call Paul. So all the lines r there but the canister isn’t. Shouldn’t it still decompress the system though?
 

ntsqd

heratic car camper
Joined
Jan 30, 2005
Messages
3,401
Loc.
Upper SoKA
Try blowing compressed air thru those lines. My bet is that they've been open long enough to have become clogged with something.
 

ntsqd

heratic car camper
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Jan 30, 2005
Messages
3,401
Loc.
Upper SoKA
You could, BUT if it/they are plugged then you'll be blowing what ever it is towards the tank too.
 

bronconut73

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Aug 7, 2012
Messages
9,917
Open lines get filled with mud dobber nests pretty fast here in Florida.
Bet they are plugged Bud.
 
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tpep3

New Member
Joined
Dec 16, 2013
Messages
30
Loc.
Elmhurst, IL
Thx all. I ordered a new canister. Planning to connect the line from the tank to the small port. One of the large ports to the air cleaner and cap the other two after I confirm that the line is open. Is that correct?
 

Rustytruck

Bronco Guru
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Feb 24, 2002
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10,875
The 2 large ports are fresh air in and fuel vapor to the Air cleaner. the 2 small ports, 1 small port to the vapor recovery bottle behind the drivers seat seat. the other port was capped or went to the vent over the fuel bowl on the carb 1974-1977
 
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