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Gauges not working

radman74

Jr. Member
Joined
Jan 1, 2010
Messages
99
Ok I’m trying to get my gauges back up and working. I tested the regulator I’m getting 12 to 11 volts on one side and 5 to 8 pulsing on the other side but I don’t think I’m getting power to the gauges. None of my bulbs in the cluster work either. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
 

suckerpunched

Sr. Member
Joined
Aug 24, 2006
Messages
882
make sure the cluster has a good ground. I ran a dedicated wire from the cluster housing to the body not the dash. You could use a jumper wire temporarily to see if is cures any of your problems. Also, have you checked power at one of the light bulb sockets?
 

DirtDonk

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Nov 3, 2003
Messages
47,355
There are the illumination bulbs, and the indicator bulbs. Are you talking about none of them working? Or just the illumination?
The Blue w/red wire powers all of them from the light switch, so when you were checking were you sure the light switch was on to at least the first click and the rheostat is turned all the way up?

You should check each bulb to make sure it's good. They can go out one at a time over a long period until none of them work.

Next would be the fuse. It's (if I remember correctly) the smallest one in the fuse panel. Pull that out (carefully) and clean the contacts. Put it back in and check again. Should be power only when the light switch is on and the rheostat turned up.

For the gauges, it sounds like your regulator is working. A bit high of a reading in fact, but then the gauges should just read high. You say they're not reading at all?
As was suggested, a good ground wire from the cluster to the dash, then another from the dash to the body would be a good idea.

Then you should check the sending units. One easy way to test that the wires are good is to temporarily ground the connectors at the sender. If the gauge pegs to the high end when you turn the key on, then your sending unit(s) is bad.
If it does not peg, then either the wire is bad, the gauge itself is bad, or the ground is bad.

When you measured the output voltage of the regulator did you verify that the power was getting to the gauges?

Paul
 

Crush

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
May 30, 2007
Messages
3,463
Loc.
Greenbottom, WV
Might just have to vigorously twist the headlight switch back and fourth to make the rheostat work better. Sometimes they get corrosion buildup and need worked a bit
 

B RON CO

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Jun 29, 2016
Messages
2,412
Loc.
Statesville, NC
Hi,you should see the pulsing voltage at each connection, including the end of the wire at the sender. Good luck
 

half cab

Contributor
Guru Bronco
Joined
Dec 8, 2010
Messages
16,306
Might just have to vigorously twist the headlight switch back and fourth to make the rheostat work better. Sometimes they get corrosion buildup and need worked a bit

My first thoughts as well.
 
OP
OP
radman74

radman74

Jr. Member
Joined
Jan 1, 2010
Messages
99
Ok got power to gauges and got power to the plug on the sending unit. I ran a temporary ground from battery post to the back of the gauge cluster. Still nothing working I’ll check the gauge tomorrow and pic up some bulbs still can’t get them to work I played with the light switch still nothing. I’ve got power at the fuse block on the little fuse but I think it comes on with the the key right now. Thanks guys I appreciate the help
 
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