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Has anyone made a front dana 44 wedge to 3 link conversion bracket?

79INA69

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Apr 30, 2018
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In the world of bolt on Jeep suspensions of all types, has anyone made a c bushing eliminator bracket that has provisions for a 3 link? Something like an all metal bolt on bracket that removes the c bushings and has a link tab style mount for lower links? Obviously not the most correct way to go about this. More geared towards the cast on wedge housings. Just curious. Personally would not go to the trouble of re tubing a D44 for linking purposes.
 

1969miller

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My guess is it would cause some weird vibrations having your suspension link mounts on a bracket that has a bushing between it and the axle housing. To my knowledge nobody makes this.
 
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79INA69

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My guess is it would cause some weird vibrations having your suspension link mounts on a bracket that has a bushing between it and the axle housing. To my knowledge nobody makes this.
So, looking for no bushing at all. As in metal to metal bracket that clamps on the wedges without any rubber bushing, so as to be rigid.
 

Quick & Dirty

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The wedge is held by welds across the ends, top and bottom. Carefully cut through and knock the wedge off. Unless you have a full width F-series axle, some of those were cast in.

AJRMa2v.jpg
 
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79INA69

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The wedge is held by welds across the ends, top and bottom. Carefully cut through and knock the wedge off. Unless you have a full width F-series axle, some of those were cast in.

AJRMa2v.jpg
Right. I a specifically talking about the cast on 78-79 d44 housings. Having a bolt on alternative to re tubing the entire axle
 

Yeller

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I’ve seriously contemplated using Duff’s long arm bracket for just that. Just haven’t done the math but it should work.
 
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79INA69

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I’ve seriously contemplated using Duff’s long arm bracket for just that. Just haven’t done the math but it should work.
You would still be using the factory caster / pinion angle window, but a metal clamp around the wedges that would be solid mount and have a weld area for the lowers. Does the Duff brackets mount solid to the wedges??
 

Yeller

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You would still be using the factory caster / pinion angle window, but a metal clamp around the wedges that would be solid mount and have a weld area for the lowers. Does the Duff brackets mount solid to the wedges??
Does not weld or clamp solid. Still uses c bushings, in theory it would still work. It wouldn’t be that big of a deal to burn some plates and weld them on. The cast sections are weldable cast steel/ductile not gray cast iron.
 
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79INA69

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Does not weld or clamp solid. Still uses c bushings, in theory it would still work. It wouldn’t be that big of a deal to burn some plates and weld them on. The cast sections are weldable cast steel/ductile not gray cast iron.
Or maybe C aluminum bushings? I guess if you used the poly C bushings on the JD clamps and then made the link tab at the axle solid like a super duty arm, then that would free up the housing twist and allow for an upper link too. Not as clean, but could be done safely. I have never seen anything other than leaf spring perches welded to the cast steel areas on this housing. Have you seen someone weld link tabs on this area safely? As in street worthy
 

Yeller

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for the amount of machining needed to make an aluminum C bushing that may or may not work would be intense. The JD clamps have 2 bolts and bushing in them that could be in theory bolted to individual control arms instead of a radius arm.
1704825822019.png

as for welding to the cast portion on the tube I wouldn't have an issue with it, they are known to not be gray iron, they are welded to the tube. I've welded lots of control arm brackets to center sections. The upper links on my bronco are welded to the cast as an example, so I have no issues welding to it.
 
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79INA69

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for the amount of machining needed to make an aluminum C bushing that may or may not work would be intense. The JD clamps have 2 bolts and bushing in them that could be in theory bolted to individual control arms instead of a radius arm.
View attachment 916966

as for welding to the cast portion on the tube I wouldn't have an issue with it, they are known to not be gray iron, they are welded to the tube. I've welded lots of control arm brackets to center sections. The upper links on my bronco are welded to the cast as an example, so I have no issues welding to it.
Alright. Might look into it a little further. If there was a 76-77 housing laying around for under $500 I would grab one. I would like to go with a 3 link front set up to compliment the rear 4 link better.
 

1969miller

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Alright. Might look into it a little further. If there was a 76-77 housing laying around for under $500 I would grab one. I would like to go with a 3 link front set up to compliment the rear 4 link better.
Where are you located?
 

jamesroney

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Alright. Might look into it a little further. If there was a 76-77 housing laying around for under $500 I would grab one. I would like to go with a 3 link front set up to compliment the rear 4 link better.
73-77 works for the 1/2 ton, and any 3/4 ton HP works too. The only reason to source a 76-77 F100 housing is to get the "free" disc brakes. Any open knuckle, high pinion full width 44 will have the exposed tubes that you want.

A 61 and 65 inch wide, driver drop dana 44 high pinion with steel tubes is called a Jeep TJ/ JK housing. Factory Dana Spicer TJ and JK housings are weak, and bend. There are many great aftermarket choices.

Anybody that spends that much time and energy into a Dana 44 could have build a Dana 60. There's no shortage of link bracket sets for the 60. I just built this ProRock 60 for my Bronco, but I'm putting it into my LJ because Bronco's cost too much these days. Coil buckets at 36, with an WMS of 64, and TJ link brackets. It's sitting at 7 degrees of caster at 9 degrees of pinion. I originally had a set of Duff arms and Cage weld mounts...but I don't really like them. The bushing spacing is too small, so they tend to eat bushings.

This could just as easily bolt into an early bronco with modified Duff arms, or a pair of Clayton XJ/TJ arms.
 

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1969

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Anybody that spends that much time and energy into a Dana 44 could have build a Dana 60.

This is the reason I went with a set of 08 super duty axles for my bronco.. but I pretty much started out with just a tub and frame and nothing else when I bought it. I couldn’t justify buying EB axles and then building them. And why go full width with 70s truck axles when you can get the newer super duty axles that are superior in every way except weight.
 

Qumanchew

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I think you're trying to reinvent the wheel here. As Yeller mentioned, you can weld to them just fine. I've done it numerous times. My last wheeler ran a 78 dana 44 with the three link brackets welded on. I ran that truck hard for 10+ years at Gore, Rousch Creek, AOAA, etc.
 
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79INA69

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I think you're trying to reinvent the wheel here. As Yeller mentioned, you can weld to them just fine. I've done it numerous times. My last wheeler ran a 78 dana 44 with the three link brackets welded on. I ran that truck hard for 10+ years at Gore, Rousch Creek, AOAA, etc.
I would like to see some pics of that front end 3 link if you have some.
 
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79INA69

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Apr 30, 2018
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73-77 works for the 1/2 ton, and any 3/4 ton HP works too. The only reason to source a 76-77 F100 housing is to get the "free" disc brakes. Any open knuckle, high pinion full width 44 will have the exposed tubes that you want.

A 61 and 65 inch wide, driver drop dana 44 high pinion with steel tubes is called a Jeep TJ/ JK housing. Factory Dana Spicer TJ and JK housings are weak, and bend. There are many great aftermarket choices.

Anybody that spends that much time and energy into a Dana 44 could have build a Dana 60. There's no shortage of link bracket sets for the 60. I just built this ProRock 60 for my Bronco, but I'm putting it into my LJ because Bronco's cost too much these days. Coil buckets at 36, with an WMS of 64, and TJ link brackets. It's sitting at 7 degrees of caster at 9 degrees of pinion. I originally had a set of Duff arms and Cage weld mounts...but I don't really like them. The bushing spacing is too small, so they tend to eat bushings.

This could just as easily bolt into an early bronco with modified Duff arms, or a pair of Clayton XJ/TJ arms.
I agree with you here for sure. I just finally sold my 79 9" rear axle that had a detroit, 456, dutchman shafts and eldo disc for $900... noone is interested in buying 1/2 ton axles any more, built or not. I plan on putting a 60 or Fab 9 up front eventually, but I have been changing plans too much and need to just drive and wheel this thing. All my drivetrain came out of my previous 79f150 I had. I know first hand the problems with creating a build around one or two "good" or cheap parts you want to run
 
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