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Heim steer / trac bar & drag link not aligned

CopperBronco

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Aug 13, 2021
Messages
379
Just got Duffs dual sport Heim steer installed on my Bronco… but my trac bar and drag link don’t align perfectly. Ironically they did before, but saddle in Duff tie rod sits higher… take a look at photos, I’m wondering if I need to move pitman arm over a notch to be more parallel with the frame. (I have power steering BTW). Axle is centered under frame, pitman arm is clocked and at center of gear box. I have a 2.5” lift as well. Photos show full weight of vehicle, not jacked up anywhere.

I’m wondering, if moving the pitman arm a tad will help? Or if I’m going to have to get trac bar riser bracket from Duff, which I was told I wouldn’t need for a 2.5” lift and tie rod under install. Would appreciate any input before I wrestle that pitman arm off.

Thanks!
 

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Yeller

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Have you driven it? I would ensure the alignment is correct and drive it first before changing anything. Then make the decision. About what to do. As for reclocking the pitman arm, it may need it but if it is in the center of its travel it would be correct.
 
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CopperBronco

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Messages
379
Got it… I was told I’d you stand on bumper and move Bronco up and down steering wheel should stay still as a test for bump steer. Right now I get a little play in the steering wheel when I do that, whereas before I got none when they perfectly aligned.
 

Rbuddy98

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Messages
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I will be getting my track bar and Heim steer from Duff this coming Thursday. I have a 2 1/2 lift as well. I will let you know if I have the same problem.
 

DirtDonk

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Messages
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Just got Duffs dual sport Heim steer installed on my Bronco… but my trac bar and drag link don’t align perfectly. Ironically they did before, but saddle in Duff tie rod sits higher…
Don't think I've noted that much misalignment before, but maybe was not paying attention.
Just out of curiosity, what was your previous setup? Stock? Original even?

I’m wondering if I need to move pitman arm over a notch to be more parallel with the frame. (I have power steering BTW).
What year is the gearbox and pitman arm?
It's normal for the first few years (including the early power steering) to have the pitman arm offset one spline, or 10° to the driver's side. So it's not a big deal.
However, Ford did change later versions to a straight-back orientation, so there's that. My opinion is that you can use whatever works.

Just always make sure that the gearbox is in it's centered position first, then set everything off of that. Including the steering wheel, which is always our first visual cue as to steering box position. The on-center location is very important, so when in doubt, always double-check that.

Axle is centered under frame, pitman arm is clocked and at center of gear box.
What exactly does that last bit mean? That the arm and box aim straight back when centered, but that it has to be offset like that to fit? The box is not centered when at ride height in other words?

I’m wondering, if moving the pitman arm a tad will help? Or if I’m going to have to get trac bar riser bracket from Duff, which I was told I wouldn’t need for a 2.5” lift and tie rod under install.
I'm sorry that as an industry as a whole, we still quote that old nonsense about not needing drops or arms until you get to 3" and above. Even we still do it...
For me, because 2.5" is ALMOST 3 INCHES I say all EB's can benefit from the drops with 2.5" lifts. I only go back to the old rules at 2" and below.
And even then I would like to see some custom pitman arms and drop brackets that work with 1.5-2 inch lifts!
Stock steering angles are better than non-stock steering angles every time.

I can't say for a fact since I did not make the original rules 50 years ago, but I always felt that the early modifiers (and their customers) just were cheap and did not want to spend the money on custom modifications of the steering linkage until it was absolutely necessary. Hence the rule for 3" and above absolutely needing drops, and anything below that was just a 'user's choice" kind of thing. And since most of us Bronco owners were cheap (there, I said it again) we ignored, and just plain did not care that they did not handle like stock anymore. We put up with it back then just fine.
But back then too, most lifts under 3" were in fact 1.5 inches or less. So that might have been the driving factor initially, and when 2 and 2.5 inch lifts came out, the old "3 inch rule" held up in court and our cheapness prevailed and nobody wanted to spend another 50-100 bucks if they didn't have to.
Nowadays however, with Bronco values being in the multiple tens and hundreds of thousands of dollars, spending another 150 bucks to have it handle and steer better seems like nothing. So I think the vendors (all of us) should modify our old-school thinking and just tell customers it's best to take the plunge and add the parts for anything 2.5 and above. And spend more time with them on the phone even if it means longer wait times for calls, to explain the reasoning why the extra money is well spent.
Are they absoulutely necessary? No, still not. But with more owners being more particular about how their old SUV's handle and steer and stop, compared to thirty and forty years ago, it's time to make them at least more desirable rather than avoiding them altogether.
It's just a better practice...

We'll see who's the first to change with the times. Hopefully it's us!

Rather than a riser in your case though, I would get one of their trackbar drop brackets. But you've got a second and a third layer of dilemma here, with the non-parallel bars and maybe even the non-original gearbox and pitman arm.
If we're not concerned with overall angle, a Duff drop bracket with the multiple holes (or the short one if they still sell that model?) would probably put your trackbar right inline with the pitman arm as it sits now. That's your easiest and least expensive first level solution. It does nothing for angles, but gets the parallel aspect back to snuff.

If it was me I'd try to figure out how to do both. Get them parallel AND get them both lower as well.
Maybe that takes a full drop bracket and custom pitman arm? Or a riser after all, so you can fine tune your trackbar angle (multiple holes) to the new dropped pitman arm?
I'm not sure what your best solution is at the moment. Only the first step easy solution. Because I'm not sure why the new steering put your angles out of parallel yet.
The gearbox and pitman arm change were prior to this, correct? So the same setup had parallel bars? Got any pics of before?

By the way, is that big thingy that looks like a metal angle-iron bracket welded to the crossmember some kind of drop for the steering stabilizer? Was this Bronco lifted to the moon before? Or am I just seeing it wrong and it's something you're using to check axle centering maybe?

Good luck.

Paul
 

DirtDonk

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Back to your pitman arm location, are you saying it was centered along the frame before? If so I see a ton of adjustment remaining in the new draglink that could easily (it looks like) bring the arm and box back to parallel with the frame.
Seems like an excessive amount of thread showing in fact. I assume they make them to fit a wide range of possible setups, but it's good to make sure you have lots of thread engaged in the tube.

Since the axle is centered (nice plum-bob by the way!) you can center the box if it's not already, center the wheel on the box for reference, then adjust the draglink to fit the pitman arm naturally and you're all set from that aspect.

You can also verify your lift to make sure you got 2.5 and not more, by measuring between the bottom of the frame rail and the top of the axle tube. Whatever you have over 7" in the front (6" in the back) is your lift. Approximately, since Broncos had various heights even from the factory. But those measurements are good within an half-inch or less I would say. Gets you in the ballpark anyway.
That way you know your trackbar length /axle center and draglink measurements are correct because they're not skewed by a higher than expected ride height.

Paul
 

c0astie31

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Joined
Jun 27, 2015
Messages
157
Get the hardware for the drag link to mount it on the top side versus the lower side ?
 
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CopperBronco

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Aug 13, 2021
Messages
379
Back to your pitman arm location, are you saying it was centered along the frame before? If so I see a ton of adjustment remaining in the new draglink that could easily (it looks like) bring the arm and box back to parallel with the frame.
Seems like an excessive amount of thread showing in fact. I assume they make them to fit a wide range of possible setups, but it's good to make sure you have lots of thread engaged in the tube.

Since the axle is centered (nice plum-bob by the way!) you can center the box if it's not already, center the wheel on the box for reference, then adjust the draglink to fit the pitman arm naturally and you're all set from that aspect.

You can also verify your lift to make sure you got 2.5 and not more, by measuring between the bottom of the frame rail and the top of the axle tube. Whatever you have over 7" in the front (6" in the back) is your lift. Approximately, since Broncos had various heights even from the factory. But those measurements are good within an half-inch or less I would say. Gets you in the ballpark anyway.
That way you know your trackbar length /axle center and draglink measurements are correct because they're not skewed by a higher than expected ride height.

Paul
Pitman arm is in similar position as before all this, was never quite straight back. The steering box is a 6 turn box, and the photo shows where it sits in the center of the box, so I’ve done all you said I believe. Steering wheel had to be re centered as well as none of this had been done properly. When I got an alignment before I started the numbers were super wonky.

The drop down bracket you see is for the steering stabilizer… PO just welded on some L bracket and drilled holes in it vs. buying the brackets I see on the market. It used to have two stabilizers on it is my guess as there are two holes. But only came with one on it when I got it.
 
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CopperBronco

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Aug 13, 2021
Messages
379
Don't think I've noted that much misalignment before, but maybe was not paying attention.
Just out of curiosity, what was your previous setup? Stock? Original even?


What year is the gearbox and pitman arm?
It's normal for the first few years (including the early power steering) to have the pitman arm offset one spline, or 10° to the driver's side. So it's not a big deal.
However, Ford did change later versions to a straight-back orientation, so there's that. My opinion is that you can use whatever works.

Just always make sure that the gearbox is in it's centered position first, then set everything off of that. Including the steering wheel, which is always our first visual cue as to steering box position. The on-center location is very important, so when in doubt, always double-check that.


What exactly does that last bit mean? That the arm and box aim straight back when centered, but that it has to be offset like that to fit? The box is not centered when at ride height in other words?


I'm sorry that as an industry as a whole, we still quote that old nonsense about not needing drops or arms until you get to 3" and above. Even we still do it...
For me, because 2.5" is ALMOST 3 INCHES I say all EB's can benefit from the drops with 2.5" lifts. I only go back to the old rules at 2" and below.
And even then I would like to see some custom pitman arms and drop brackets that work with 1.5-2 inch lifts!
Stock steering angles are better than non-stock steering angles every time.

I can't say for a fact since I did not make the original rules 50 years ago, but I always felt that the early modifiers (and their customers) just were cheap and did not want to spend the money on custom modifications of the steering linkage until it was absolutely necessary. Hence the rule for 3" and above absolutely needing drops, and anything below that was just a 'user's choice" kind of thing. And since most of us Bronco owners were cheap (there, I said it again) we ignored, and just plain did not care that they did not handle like stock anymore. We put up with it back then just fine.
But back then too, most lifts under 3" were in fact 1.5 inches or less. So that might have been the driving factor initially, and when 2 and 2.5 inch lifts came out, the old "3 inch rule" held up in court and our cheapness prevailed and nobody wanted to spend another 50-100 bucks if they didn't have to.
Nowadays however, with Bronco values being in the multiple tens and hundreds of thousands of dollars, spending another 150 bucks to have it handle and steer better seems like nothing. So I think the vendors (all of us) should modify our old-school thinking and just tell customers it's best to take the plunge and add the parts for anything 2.5 and above. And spend more time with them on the phone even if it means longer wait times for calls, to explain the reasoning why the extra money is well spent.
Are they absoulutely necessary? No, still not. But with more owners being more particular about how their old SUV's handle and steer and stop, compared to thirty and forty years ago, it's time to make them at least more desirable rather than avoiding them altogether.
It's just a better practice...

We'll see who's the first to change with the times. Hopefully it's us!

Rather than a riser in your case though, I would get one of their trackbar drop brackets. But you've got a second and a third layer of dilemma here, with the non-parallel bars and maybe even the non-original gearbox and pitman arm.
If we're not concerned with overall angle, a Duff drop bracket with the multiple holes (or the short one if they still sell that model?) would probably put your trackbar right inline with the pitman arm as it sits now. That's your easiest and least expensive first level solution. It does nothing for angles, but gets the parallel aspect back to snuff.

If it was me I'd try to figure out how to do both. Get them parallel AND get them both lower as well.
Maybe that takes a full drop bracket and custom pitman arm? Or a riser after all, so you can fine tune your trackbar angle (multiple holes) to the new dropped pitman arm?
I'm not sure what your best solution is at the moment. Only the first step easy solution. Because I'm not sure why the new steering put your angles out of parallel yet.
The gearbox and pitman arm change were prior to this, correct? So the same setup had parallel bars? Got any pics of before?

By the way, is that big thingy that looks like a metal angle-iron bracket welded to the crossmember some kind of drop for the steering stabilizer? Was this Bronco lifted to the moon before? Or am I just seeing it wrong and it's something you're using to check axle centering maybe?

Good luck.

Paul

Before I had 2.5” lift just like now, had T style steering linkage. Only toe was adjustable… drag link and trac bar not adjustable. So mostly stock, now all adjustable.

Don’t know year of gear box, no idea how to tell. Gear box and steering wheel are centered. So if I adjust pitman arm I need to remove it and then put back on straight back. That would reduce exposed threads. The thread has 4.75” to go into drag link, I think I only have 2.5” exposed… can double check.

Yea same gearbox and pitman arm as before. The difference is that Duffs new tie rod saddle is quite higher up than old stock. The stock saddle sits even with the tie rod coming off the face of to. Duffs saddle sits an inch or two higher. The parts are super beefy, and can adjust while on the Bronco which is super nice, but this is a bit of a pain.

Here is a photo of before. Not same angle photo, but I had put on new trac bar and centered axle before I started and they were perfectly parallel and when I jumped on bumper the steering wheel didn’t move at all. Pitman arm looks a little different, because it wasn’t steering gearbox wasn’t centered yet. Was slightly off.
 

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CopperBronco

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Messages
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Back to your pitman arm location, are you saying it was centered along the frame before? If so I see a ton of adjustment remaining in the new draglink that could easily (it looks like) bring the arm and box back to parallel with the frame.
Seems like an excessive amount of thread showing in fact. I assume they make them to fit a wide range of possible setups, but it's good to make sure you have lots of thread engaged in the tube.

Since the axle is centered (nice plum-bob by the way!) you can center the box if it's not already, center the wheel on the box for reference, then adjust the draglink to fit the pitman arm naturally and you're all set from that aspect.

You can also verify your lift to make sure you got 2.5 and not more, by measuring between the bottom of the frame rail and the top of the axle tube. Whatever you have over 7" in the front (6" in the back) is your lift. Approximately, since Broncos had various heights even from the factory. But those measurements are good within an half-inch or less I would say. Gets you in the ballpark anyway.
That way you know your trackbar length /axle center and draglink measurements are correct because they're not skewed by a higher than expected ride height.

Paul
One more thing, yes my point exactly around pulling pitman arm and orienting straight back as drag link can still tighten up a lot and bring it more parallel.
 
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CopperBronco

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Also, maybe these measurements help, these are rough…

Pitman arm - approx 5-7 degree outward
Drag link - 30.5”
Trac bar - 28.5”
Lift - axle tube to bottom of frame- 9.5” ( so 2.5” lift is accurate).
 

DirtDonk

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Pitman arm is in similar position as before all this, was never quite straight back. The steering box is a 6 turn box, and the photo shows where it sits in the center of the box, so I’ve done all you said I believe. Steering wheel had to be re centered as well as none of this had been done properly. When I got an alignment before I started the numbers were super wonky.
So it's an early box ('73 to '75) and very possibly correct alignment of the arm. So not an issue from a steering standpoint exactly.
But it might still be better to go the route that Ford took later and make it centered?

It aligns like this usually due to "keyed" splines making the arm fit only one way. Very easy to modify the factory arms with a file or saw to take the key/master splines and cut them so that the arm will fit however you want it. Aftermarket arms are not usually keyed so can go on in any direction.
Given the extended threads on the draglink, I'd be tempted to do it just for that reason alone.

The drop down bracket you see is for the steering stabilizer… PO just welded on some L bracket and drilled holes in it vs. buying the brackets I see on the market. It used to have two stabilizers on it is my guess as there are two holes. But only came with one on it when I got it.
Seen that before. Someone thought that duals would either fix a problem, or just looked cool.
Might have been to try to overcome a Death Wobble, or just a simple shimmy, but it was not unheard of for full-size truck owners to have dual, triple and even quad front stabilizers. If for no other reason than they could get more shock boots of the color they liked showing beneath their truck.
Yes, that's a fact.

Paul
 

DirtDonk

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Get the hardware for the drag link to mount it on the top side versus the lower side ?
That works sometimes, but in this case it would make the angles worse.
It would help the overall angle of the draglink being lower, but would put the two bars even more out of parallel.

Paul
 

DirtDonk

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Don’t know year of gear box, no idea how to tell. Gear box and steering wheel are centered. So if I adjust pitman arm I need to remove it and then put back on straight back. That would reduce exposed threads. The thread has 4.75” to go into drag link, I think I only have 2.5” exposed… can double check.
Yep, early box like I just posted above. Not sure how to tell exactly what year, but probably a '73.
If a stock pitman arm you may have to file some splines to get it to move since the arm and the shaft have matching key splines to keep it aligned like original. But easy enough to change.
I took a small triangle file to my original and to another one with key splines and it was quite a bit easier than I expected. Just cut grooves in the big splines and they ended up being two individual splines just like the rest of them.
Worked slick.

Yea same gearbox and pitman arm as before. The difference is that Duffs new tie rod saddle is quite higher up than old stock. The stock saddle sits even with the tie rod coming off the face of to. Duffs saddle sits an inch or two higher. The parts are super beefy, and can adjust while on the Bronco which is super nice, but this is a bit of a pain.
Yeah, they're really nice components. First time I think I remember anybody discussing the out-of-parallel issue though. Maybe others that have done it will chime in with their experiences.
But it still looks like you could benefit from the additional steps we talked about before. Either a drop bracket for the upper eye of the trackbar (whether an off-the-shelf part, or custom) or drop both and use whatever it takes to get them at least closer to parallel again.

Here is a photo of before. Not same angle photo, but I had put on new trac bar and centered axle before I started and they were perfectly parallel and when I jumped on bumper the steering wheel didn’t move at all.
From here at least they don't look perfectly parallel either. Yes, it's more off now, but they were not perfectly parallel then either. So still need to work on it, but just getting it closer each step would be steps in the right direction.

Paul
 
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CopperBronco

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Yeah, I’ll pull pitman arm and recenter I think for good measure, and awaiting to hear from Duff… see if they have any other ideas.
 
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CopperBronco

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So I put on new pitman arm and centered straight back, it helped the angles a bit… at least threads are not as exposed now. I’m guessing I either need trac bar riser bracket, drop bracket, or drop pitman arm to get linkage parallel. Any recommendations on what’s ideal? Duff recommends a welded riser bracket at the axle… but usually for TRO installs. Would love any advice.
 

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DirtDonk

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A dropped pitman arm by itself would make it worse. You're already lower at the top of the draglink than you are at the trackbar.
Lowering the trackbar upper (drop bracket), or raising the trackbar lower (riser) is how you're going to get them more parallel.

The risers are stronger than the drop brackets, but are not for every application. However, I don't see anything in your current setup that would preclude you adding one if you want to go that way. And if you ever decide to go with a TRO orientation the riser would be helpful.
However the drop bracket is less expensive and the right version is also able to get things close.

The good news is that risers usually have multiple holes to choose from so you can find one that best brings things closer to parallel. But you have to weld them only. A drop bracket can be bolted and driven to a welder if you can't do it yourself. A riser must be welded before you can drive safely.

I'm all about lowering overall angles as much as keeping them parallel. So a dropped pitman arm and riser or custom drop bracket would do both. But for quick & dirty, just changing the trackbar angle would get you parallel.
I can't say which parts will be off-the-shelf vs custom and which ones will get you exactly where you need to be, but check in with Duff again to see which way is going to get you that change (minimal change of the trackbar angle) to get things parallel.
You showed them the picture? If so they can see that you don't have to make a major change. Just enough to bring the two links into alignment with each other.

Paul
 

Okie69

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I have the Duffs riser bracket and it brings your trac bar up quite a bit. It might actually push you past parallel. The Wildhorses version has multiple bolt holes so that may help you. Or just try the drop bracket like Paul suggested.
 
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