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Holley header sale

Quick & Dirty

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Joined
Feb 15, 2004
Messages
826
Yeah, the ad says "long tube" then lists 20" as the length, which is not long. Actual tube lengths range from 11" to 24". Nice enough at the sale price, for a step up from manifolds, but I wouldn't have given them a second look at the suggested normal price.

Also, exhaust tubing is measured by O.D. so the 1.5" primary and 2.5" collector are as advertised. 2.5" -16gauge walls is 2.375" I.D.
 
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Torkman66

Contributor
Sr. Member
Joined
Apr 3, 2022
Messages
379
I researched these headers before purchase. Several easy to find threads offer that they are not shorty but not long either. I actually selected them because of that. I was going to go with Duffs shortys and their 2:1 exhaust but they are on hold for fiiment issues. Did not want long headers because of heat produced, price, and no grand desire for more HP. (365 is enough). So these “mud-length” headers, at a great price, were exactly what I was looking for. While I have not mounted them yet, several threads have discussed mounting these to their 302s and liked them a lot.

I’m hopeful these will be a good choice. 200 shipped plus another 600 for a shop to build custom 2:1 including SS magniflo and header connectors. I will be upgrading the gaskets but would do that with any header I purchased.
 
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PDQ

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May 6, 2012
Messages
231
Has anyone that made the purchase installed them yet? I got these some time ago at the recommendation of others on this site, but found that the clutch fork hits them when the pedal is depressed. Bolts are super fun to get started and snugged too. Anyone else have the clutch fork issue?

Thanks
 

DirtDonk

Contributor
Bronco Guru
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Nov 3, 2003
Messages
47,353
I wonder how many installs were automatics, versus manuals?
And, of course, I wonder how many are still sitting on the shelves? :)

The hard to attach bolts is an almost universal problem with headers. Especially on Ford engines like ours.
There’s a fairly simple solution, actually two of them, well, maybe three… But none of the manufacturers seem to wanna go down that road because one would make the headers ugly and seemingly lower their performance, and the other two would make them slightly more expensive than they are already.
None of which sound very appealing to a manufacturer I’m sure.
 
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OX1

Bronco Guru
Joined
Aug 26, 2003
Messages
3,458
Has anyone that made the purchase installed them yet? I got these some time ago at the recommendation of others on this site, but found that the clutch fork hits them when the pedal is depressed. Bolts are super fun to get started and snugged too. Anyone else have the clutch fork issue?

Thanks

Did not put mine in yet, any pics of interference?
 

Torkman66

Contributor
Sr. Member
Joined
Apr 3, 2022
Messages
379
I have installed them. I have an automatic. No issue with any linkage or other obstruction. The bolts are difficult to get tight. I purchased after market header bolts that use the Allen head. The black hex heads are not possible to use on all locations. I also had to grind down a small section on passenger side so head of bolt would not hit header. You must also keep the header very loose (1/4” or more loose on bolt) and get all bolts started then slowly tighten up bolts and pull header close to head. Have not run engine yet. Hope they work out because they will be tough to remove and I already have custom exhaust bolted to them.
 

m_m70

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Sr. Member
Joined
Jun 14, 2001
Messages
1,460
Loc.
Pacifica, CA
I switched to ARP studs, 12 point nuts and Nord-lock washers a while back with my LnL long tube headers. Been around 8 years or so and haven't had any issues/leaks.

I know it's not the same header but may work on these as well.
 

PDQ

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May 6, 2012
Messages
231
Did not put mine in yet, any pics of interference?
I'll try to get one today or tomorrow for you.

Torkman, agree with the same experience on getting the bolts installed. I used some small diameter hex heads from Proform, but had to go through the same process. Studs may work, but I don't think the 12 pt fastener would work here as you (or at least I couldn't) get a socket head on the nut next to the tube. I think you'll need a small open end wrench or allens as previously mentioned. Open to other fixes though.
 

m_m70

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Jun 14, 2001
Messages
1,460
Loc.
Pacifica, CA
Studs may work, but I don't think the 12 pt fastener would work here as you (or at least I couldn't) get a socket head on the nut next to the tube
I used a thin wall deep socket.

I have also mix n match where I used a couple of studs and the rest in allen bolts. The studs help with aligning while starting the allens.

But I haven't worked with these particular headers so these are just ideas.
 
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OX1

Bronco Guru
Joined
Aug 26, 2003
Messages
3,458
I'll try to get one today or tomorrow for you.

Torkman, agree with the same experience on getting the bolts installed. I used some small diameter hex heads from Proform, but had to go through the same process. Studs may work, but I don't think the 12 pt fastener would work here as you (or at least I couldn't) get a socket head on the nut next to the tube. I think you'll need a small open end wrench or allens as previously mentioned. Open to other fixes though.

Thanks and no rush. I'm on the 15 year plan for rebuild. But would like to see what the issue is when you get a chance. See if it's something I can easily fab up a fix for or not (eventually).
 

PDQ

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May 6, 2012
Messages
231
Thanks and no rush. I'm on the 15 year plan for rebuild. But would like to see what the issue is when you get a chance. See if it's something I can easily fab up a fix for or not (eventually).
I am on a similar plan. You can see the mark on the collector where the fork hits. It doesn't look like much, but it is not letting the clutch fully disengage. I'm sure dimpling the collector is an option, however it would need to be a pretty good dimple to get full travel, and they have been Cerakoted, so I'd rather not have to if I can just figure out how to make the headers work as designed. Again, these were highly recommended by a couple of long time contributors here, so I'm hoping someone has already figured this out.....

Let me know if you need better or different pictures. I'm working alone, so depressing the pedal and taking a pic underneath at the same time may be a challenge....
 

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OX1

Bronco Guru
Joined
Aug 26, 2003
Messages
3,458
I am on a similar plan. You can see the mark on the collector where the fork hits. It doesn't look like much, but it is not letting the clutch fully disengage. I'm sure dimpling the collector is an option, however it would need to be a pretty good dimple to get full travel, and they have been Cerakoted, so I'd rather not have to if I can just figure out how to make the headers work as designed. Again, these were highly recommended by a couple of long time contributors here, so I'm hoping someone has already figured this out.....

Let me know if you need better or different pictures. I'm working alone, so depressing the pedal and taking a pic underneath at the same time may be a challenge....

How much travel does it stop? Can you trim fork a bit?
 
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