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Hoss Bronco Build - 1972 Modern Wheeler

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hossbronco

hossbronco

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I wish I could. However, I’m using this as an opportunity to switch out the cheap Gen 1 I picked up with a rebuilt Gen 2, so the parts are being installed at cost.

Certainly the transfer case does a lot to protect the internal components of the transmission. Part of the reason I’m overbuilding the transmission is that I’m more committed to the drivetrain than the engine. There’s a decent possibility of a Godzilla (possibly supercharged) build 10 years down the road, especially if I have issues with the Quick 6, like some have had.
 
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nvrstuk

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Another question for ya! lol

you mentioned Quick 6 problems.
Can I ask who's having problems with the Quick 6?
 
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hossbronco

hossbronco

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PBH says they’ve had several customers with failed transmissions (primarily frictions and steels) due to the Quick 6 learning curve. The guy I talked to there said in manual mode it’s not a problem and recommended I only drive in Automatic on the street. He has a customer who races Baja in manual mode with no issues. I also have a neighbor who used to race at the drag strip with a Gen 1 Quick 6 and had so many problems he finally changed transmissions. I’ve also seen other comments from Bronco owners on Facebook, I believe. I’d have to dig them up.

I know you’ve worked extensively with the manufacturer to get yours tuned in. I’m hoping to have a discussion with you when I’m getting mine set up to use your settings as a starting point for my own transmission, if you don’t mind.
 

nvrstuk

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Doesn't PBH sell a Controller for the 6r? "-)

I asked a couple guys that know more about 6r's than I know about my big toe and they said... not possible.

I don't believe it for a second either.

Call Kevin or Chris the owner. See what they say about this accusation from a competing company that sells the similar product just a couple hundred miles away.

I can see reasons for failure from improper programming maybe???? Maybe??

I went back to their "table tune" for high output hard shifts and like it better than what I had before.

I gave up on 4x4 mode and other what I call gimmick modes and all that crap because I shift mine manually 95% of the time rock crawling, & sand dune chasing and about 50% of the time on the street running errands. I usually have time to hit the rocker switch to shift but not as often when snow wheeling when getting tossed around so much.
 

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hossbronco

hossbronco

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That’s good to know. Yeah, PBH tried to talk me out of my SBF-6R80 build early on, but here I am. I’m up for the challenge and not afraid to do it wrong a few times (which I’m sure I’ll do a lot of) to get it right.

I certainly intend to spend a lot of time in manual.
 

nvrstuk

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I thought I would also...and I do when I want to have or have technical driving ahead... but I've been blown away at how well the 6 r shifts, how smooth it is and when just driving- I love it in auto mode. Does exactly what I want.

Good trans.

Comparing it to my 10 spd in my truck...which I only drive in Manual mode when going downa steep hill. Gear splits are so close it's a pita clicking the button over and over and over just to do it all again. Gear splits are so close you have to look at the shift indicator just to see what gear you are in
 
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hossbronco

hossbronco

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I thought I would also...and I do when I want to have or have technical driving ahead... but I've been blown away at how well the 6 r shifts, how smooth it is and when just driving- I love it in auto mode. Does exactly what I want.

Good trans.

Comparing it to my 10 spd in my truck...which I only drive in Manual mode when going downa steep hill. Gear splits are so close it's a pita clicking the button over and over and over just to do it all again. Gear splits are so close you have to look at the shift indicator just to see what gear you are in
On your 6R80 build you said you replaced your thermal bypass valve with a constant bypass valve. What is a constant bypass valve? Is it not enough just to remove the thermal bypass valve?
 

nvrstuk

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Ford 6R60 6R75 6R80 Sure-Cool Thermal Control Bypass Valve by Superior​


It operates like a regular pre 6r80 transmission does. It allows fluid to flow out of the trans to the cooler at all times.

Pros and cons-

Biggest Pro- It keeps your tranny cooler since it does allow your fluid out to the cooler to cool it before it heats up to 200deg F.

Biggest Con- Some say the fluid needs to be at 200+ deg F at all times.
 
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hossbronco

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Ford 6R60 6R75 6R80 Sure-Cool Thermal Control Bypass Valve by Superior​


It operates like a regular pre 6r80 transmission does. It allows fluid to flow out of the trans to the cooler at all times.

Pros and cons-

Biggest Pro- It keeps your tranny cooler since it does allow your fluid out to the cooler to cool it before it heats up to 200deg F.

Biggest Con- Some say the fluid needs to be at 200+ deg F at all times.
So just removing the thermal bypass valve isn’t an option? It needs this instead?

I do have a fan control thermostat that won’t turn on the transmission cooler fan until the transmission fluid reaches 180F, and it turns the fan off at 165F. That’s not quite 200F, but I think it will help get the fluid up to temperature.
 

nvrstuk

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It needs the thermal valve/plug installed or else I believe there's no way to regulate the oil flow.

The t-stat you have for the trans cooler should help. Where is it locaated?

I was concerned about being "that guy" when I built my 4r70 back around 2011, so I ended up with two coolers. SuperDuty sized one located in front of the radiator and a stacked plate style 11x14 w/fan that was under the radiator. (not getting radiator air).
Obviously it never got warm! Since I tend to use my Bronco in high load situations more than many I wanted to error on the side of extra cooling capacity iinstead of being "that guy".

I thought (from hearing from many) that a 11x14 stacked plate Derale cooler with fan in the open would be enough capacity and it wasn't. First real test was a 5 mile long 12-18 % grade on a 98 deg F day after driving for 20 miles slightly uphill to get to this point. Cruised on the steeper grade in 2nd & 3rd at 10-20mph with my wife and with the converter unlocked it got up to 210deg about 1/2 way up.

Put the SD cooler in-line before the next trip and never saw 145+ deg temps again over the next 8 yrs.
 

Yeller

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FYI for SD cooler lovers.... the cooler for the 4r and 5r the ports are too small for a 6r. Mid 2000's GM 2500hd's with diesel uses a very similarly sized cooler with the Alison that has large enough ports, it is about the same as a 5r Ford cooler, which is larger than the 4r 7.3's cooler.
 
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hossbronco

hossbronco

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That’s good information. It looks like that valve you’re using also allows for internal circulation to protect components if the line gets pinched.

My t-stat is in line, just upstream of the cooler. I’m using a Derale 13”x14-3/4” 40 row stacked plate cooler with a 10” 800 CFM waterproof/dustproof fan. The setup is rated at 67,000 BTU/h. It sounds similar to your first cooler. Mine may be a little better, but probably not enough to avoid a second cooler.

I’ll start out with one near the front and add another if needed.
 
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nvrstuk

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VERY true.

If you go 6r get a #8AN or 1/2" equivalent fitting size on your cooler!

I guess I should make it really CLEAR on all my posts but it's in my build AND in my tech write up on 6r tranny installations, that I TIG welded a #8 fitting onto my retrofitted SD coolers.

Proper trans oil flow is critical to these new tranny's. Might have something to do with not allowing any fluid to flow out of the trans to cool until it's 200+ deg F...then they want it to cool fast so... just guessing here but maybe that's one of the reasons...
 
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