[quote author=teknalee link=board=5;threadid=17931;start=0#msg137264 date=1054182630]
these only have 6,000 miles on them.. from the first time i rebuilt it. i'll have to check it out again tommorow
cam specs: all i can remember off the top of my head is: .306 lift
heads edelbrock rpm performer with the 2.06 exhaust ports
year: i think it's a 73 block i don't remember
engine size: 347
rocker arms: summit anodized blue aluminum ones
size and type of adjusters poly-locks etc. ???
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Is it regular Hyd lifters?
If so, here is what I would do...
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If this is your firing order then get #1 cylinder on the rock, this means bump the engine around till both rockers on the same cyl (#1) are moving at the same time. The exhaust will be closing and the intake will be opening, stop turning the engine and stop right at that instant you see both rockers move at the same time. Then go over to #6 and back off both rockers and adjust the valves on #6. Tighten the adjuster till you begin to feel resistance while spinning the pushrod between your fingers. At that point tighten the adjuster 1 Full turn then lock it down. Next get 5 on the rock and go over and adjust it's mating cylinder, which will be #3. Repeat the process for all rest of the cylinders.
Do you see the significance of the firing order diagram? If it were a 351W firing order it would be this.
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What do both diagrams have in common? They both represent 1 & 6, 3 & 5, 7 & 4, 2 & 8 as being mating cylinders. See where I'm going with this? 1 & 6 are both at top dead center at the same time, the difference is that when one is on the exhaust stroke, it's mate is on the compression stroke. You always want to adjust the valve on the back side of the lobe, which is where you will be if it’s on the compression stroke
I have adjusted valves on many small block fords on the engine stand this way and never had to fuss with it again once the engine was installed. If you do it this way, you can safely say that your valves are adjusted.
BH