Inline 6 SWAP: Explorer 5.0 Donor vs BluePrint 306

[clt69Bronco]

Greetings everyone,

I have already researched a ton I feel like on what it takes to upgrade from my inline 6. However, I feel like I have run down a different rabbit hole of whether to pay extra money to get a fully dressed BluePrint 306, or go to junkyard to pull-out a 5.0 from an Explorer where I will have to worry more about EFI or the electronics.

I am still new to this restoration and have been doing bits and pieces each year. I have already installed Painless Wiring Harness (which was the first big project). Not quite sure if that really makes a difference when it comes to choosing which motor to go with?

Basically, I am wondering is it worth spending extra money on a fully dressed engine (i.e. BluePrint) ready to throw in, or would saving a good amount of money pulling from an Explorer (probably having to rebuild) and having to deal with all of the electronics nonsense be worth it?

I found the well-respected write up on Inline 6 to V8 swap, but I could not really find anything specific hooking up the electronics - a vid would be nice!

Thank you all for any advice or guidance.

 

[duffymahoney]

I have a 1991 HO 5.0 fully rebuilt. But I wish I would have gone blueprint or similar. The extra HP would be fun. If this video doesn't make you switch, I don't know what will

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jzr2U8bGpvc

 

[71 CA Bronco]

Just depends on preferences. If you go Explorer the best way is to buy the entire car. Then you can drive it and make sure there are no big issues before the swap. You would also get a 4R70W trans with overdrive. I bought one for $200 with about 100k miles resealed with new freeze plugs done. I put another $1000 into a transmission rebuild. Used EFI guy to simplify the wiring and flash the computer. The wiring is simple. EFI Guy (Garry) labels everything really well.

The EFI is so nice to fire up. My truck can be sitting for weeks I hop in turn the key for a few seconds then starts up immediately. When I had a carb if it sat too long I would need to prime the carb, or let it turn over a bit before firing.

I'm sure others will chime with their experiences. A roller 351 with the explorer front dress and EFI would be cool too.

My 2 cents worth....

 

[71 CA Bronco]

I have a 1991 HO 5.0 fully rebuilt. But I wish I would have gone blueprint or similar. The extra HP would be fun. If this video doesn't make you switch, I don't know what will

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jzr2U8bGpvc

That's a cool video. I agree if you want raw HP go this route. The Explorer has way more HP that the stock 302 and mine has plenty for my needs. It was like going from a VW Bug to a Lincoln for me. Like I said earlier just depends on your preferences. I've have boat motors with over 1100 HP each side. After spending more time rebuilding them than using, I really enjoy the more reliable rides now. Not to say the blueprint motors are not reliable. Just more to think about before making your decision.

 

[markw]

You will trade work for cash if you do the Explorer vs Blueprint. Both are excellent options.
You can get a Bronco specific 306 with Holley throttle body injection. I have one with Fitech and it's a lot of fun to drive. NV3550, 4:56 gears and 33" tires. Nice combo. As said if you want an automatic it's hard to beat the Explorer with the 4R70W. I also have an EFI Guy tuned 408 but that's a whole different kettle of fish.

 

[71 CA Bronco]

"You will trade work for Cash" A perfect way of putting it. ;D

 

[clt69Bronco]

Thank you everyone for your replies so far!
I am feeling like leaning towards the BP Bronco 306 would be my best option. I assume I would still be able to acquire most of the front dress parts from possibly an explorer at local junkyard? And even still pull a transmission from junk yard. I probably am overthinking how hard EFI would be to set up, and thinking carb is just a simplified concept.

I almost feel like I would be leaving things behind or messing up if I tried going with an explorer motor.

 

[duffymahoney]

Thank you everyone for your replies so far!
I am feeling like leaning towards the BP Bronco 306 would be my best option. I assume I would still be able to acquire most of the front dress parts from possibly an explorer at local junkyard? And even still pull a transmission from junk yard. I probably am overthinking how hard EFI would be to set up, and thinking carb is just a simplified concept.

I almost feel like I would be leaving things behind or messing up if I tried going with an explorer motor.

If I would do my build again, I would go BluePrint 306+. Then direct port injection from Edelbrock. I like the look of the throttle body that looks similar to a 4bbl carb, but with the advantage of the direct port injection. Then get it dyno tuned.

 

[jamesroney]

I think it is important to bring some facts to the comparison.

First, the information in the video has almost nothing to do with the Blueprint 306 that you would buy. The video shows a brand new raw casting for a 4 bolt main small block chevy. Your "Blueprint 306" starts with a "hand picked seasoned block" and then it's bored .040 over. That's right...you are getting a used Ford block. "hand picked seasoned block" means USED.

Yikes.

Would I rather have a used 5.0 block out of an Explorer that was bored +.040...or a used 5.0 block out of an Explorer that was not bored +.040?

If you want a rock solid, reliable 240 Horsepower...then you should run a good used explorer 5.0 longblock. Or you can pay Blueprint to find one for you...

 

[blubuckaroo]

If I would do my build again, I would go BluePrint 306+. Then direct port injection from Edelbrock. I like the look of the throttle body that looks similar to a 4bbl carb, but with the advantage of the direct port injection. Then get it dyno tuned.

That's what I just did for my '62 Ranchero project engine. I Noticed that for what a Blueprint 347 with Sniper FI cost, I could buy a Blueprint 347 long block and buy a Edelbrock ProFlo 4, and install it myself.
I ran this past Blueprint before I pulled the trigger on the engine. Their rep said that it was a good combination, and Blueprint may be offering it in the future.
The only change you need to make is with the distributor gear. The one Edelbrock supplies with the distributor is for an iron flat tappet cam.

Here it is.

 

[duffymahoney]

Have you run it yet? Looks awesome.

 

[toddz69]

Would I rather have a used 5.0 block out of an Explorer that was bored +.040...or a used 5.0 block out of an Explorer that was not bored +.040?

If you want a rock solid, reliable 240 Horsepower...then you should run a good used explorer 5.0 longblock. Or you can pay Blueprint to find one for you...

I agree with your assessment! The challenge is finding a good used long block that doesn't have a zillion miles on it. Does anyone even bore blocks 0.010", 0.020", 0.030" anymore? Or do they just automatically go to something like 0.040" to cover all manner of wear?

Todd Z.

 

[jamesroney]

I agree with your assessment! The challenge is finding a good used long block that doesn't have a zillion miles on it. Does anyone even bore blocks 0.010", 0.020", 0.030" anymore? Or do they just automatically go to something like 0.040" to cover all manner of wear?

Todd Z.

It depends on the builder. A company like Blueprint relies on economy of scale and commonality of parts in order to maximize value. So they will buy their .040 pistons in bulk, to a specific weight...and then all of their rebuilds are done with the same recipe. A "seasoned" block will get bored to .040 whether it needs it or not. Almost all modern 5.0 blocks will clean at .010...and several Explorer 5.0's that I have opened up has still shown cross hatch in the cylinder even after 100K miles. So those blocks could easily stay Standard.

It drives me Bananas that for my 428 FE builds...I'm out here ordering custom pistons at .010, and sleeving individual cylinders...while some production rebuilding house is boring every block to .040 whether it needs it or not. Hand fitting knurled pistons to stay standard bore seems to be a lost art.

The last 4 inch bore 8.2 deck 5.0 block left the factory (in the US) in 2001. So for 36 years, (1965-2001) Ford was kind enough to give us a huge supply of junkyard parts for basically free. But that stopped 20 years ago.

There are still shops that do custom rebuilds and work to preserve your original equipment. But they seem to be drying up. Mostly MOPAR guys, and some FE shops. I still do it...one hole at a time...but it take time. At the end you get to keep your factory VIN stamped block. That never was interesting to the Bronco community, but the Cuda and Shelby folks have been doing it for a while. Now I sound like my dad...

 

[toddz69]

It depends on the builder. A company like Blueprint relies on economy of scale and commonality of parts in order to maximize value. So they will buy their .040 pistons in bulk, to a specific weight...and then all of their rebuilds are done with the same recipe. A "seasoned" block will get bored to .040 whether it needs it or not. Almost all modern 5.0 blocks will clean at .010...and several Explorer 5.0's that I have opened up has still shown cross hatch in the cylinder even after 100K miles. So those blocks could easily stay Standard.

It drives me Bananas that for my 428 FE builds...I'm out here ordering custom pistons at .010, and sleeving individual cylinders...while some production rebuilding house is boring every block to .040 whether it needs it or not. Hand fitting knurled pistons to stay standard bore seems to be a lost art.

The last 4 inch bore 8.2 deck 5.0 block left the factory (in the US) in 2001. So for 36 years, (1965-2001) Ford was kind enough to give us a huge supply of junkyard parts for basically free. But that stopped 20 years ago.

There are still shops that do custom rebuilds and work to preserve your original equipment. But they seem to be drying up. Mostly MOPAR guys, and some FE shops. I still do it...one hole at a time...but it take time. At the end you get to keep your factory VIN stamped block. That never was interesting to the Bronco community, but the Cuda and Shelby folks have been doing it for a while. Now I sound like my dad...

Yeah, I understood why Blueprint does it and why I go around and around on my next engine decision. My '91 5.0 is now approaching 200K and the valvetrain is getting noisier which drives me nuts (got noisier on my trip to Moab over the weekend). I have a local engine builder that would just machine what needs machining - can't decide whether to do that route or bite the bullet and get a Blueprint. I'm long past originality but I sure would like to just freshen up my current engine which has served me so well for 24 years now....

Todd Z.

 

[jamesroney]

Easy answer. Buy the Ford Motorsport M6010-Boss 302 crate engine.

Brand new 4 bolt main, one piece rear seal, hydraulic roller 8.2 deck 4 inch bore block. Also has the provision for the early clutch pivot.

Or just source another Explorer GT40 long block from a wrecked 96-97 and run it!

 

[toddz69]

Easy answer. Buy the Ford Motorsport M6010-Boss 302 crate engine.

Brand new 4 bolt main, one piece rear seal, hydraulic roller 8.2 deck 4 inch bore block. Also has the provision for the early clutch pivot.

Looked at that one too! Didn't like the cam. Hate to tear apart brand new engine and replace.

Still noodling...

Todd Z.

 

[jamesroney]

Looked at that one too! Didn't like the cam. Hate to tear apart brand new engine and replace.

Still noodling...

Todd Z.

OMG, they put the E303 cam in that thing. You are absolutely right...that cam is horrid. Sorry that I recommended it...

 

[iSense67]

Greetings everyone,

I have already researched a ton I feel like on what it takes to upgrade from my inline 6. However, I feel like I have run down a different rabbit hole of whether to pay extra money to get a fully dressed BluePrint 306, or go to junkyard to pull-out a 5.0 from an Explorer where I will have to worry more about EFI or the electronics.

I am still new to this restoration and have been doing bits and pieces each year. I have already installed Painless Wiring Harness (which was the first big project). Not quite sure if that really makes a difference when it comes to choosing which motor to go with?

Basically, I am wondering is it worth spending extra money on a fully dressed engine (i.e. BluePrint) ready to throw in, or would saving a good amount of money pulling from an Explorer (probably having to rebuild) and having to deal with all of the electronics nonsense be worth it?

I found the well-respected write up on Inline 6 to V8 swap, but I could not really find anything specific hooking up the electronics - a vid would be nice!

Thank you all for any advice or guidance.

Curious which way you went and any learnings after the swap?

 

[clt69Bronco]

Curious which way you went and any learnings after the swap?

I ended up buying a 351w short block that was machined and new pistons. Unfortunately, with supply issues, it is taking forever to get all the parts together to build out. I have everything now except for AFR heads. Been on order since last July so hopefully I will eventually get them and able to (start and) finish the swap.

Was hoping to have it done by this October for my wedding. But not looking that way. So it’s now just get I6 back running and finish replacing body parts.

 

[iSense67]

I ended up buying a 351w short block that was machined and new pistons. Unfortunately, with supply issues, it is taking forever to get all the parts together to build out. I have everything now except for AFR heads. Been on order since last July so hopefully I will eventually get them and able to (start and) finish the swap.

Was hoping to have it done by this October for my wedding. But not looking that way. So it’s now just get I6 back running and finish replacing body parts.

That’s a bummer but I wish you well with the wedding!